sblake01

I'll have to do a little research on that one. I have a 78 which is a little different.

I bought mine from Summit Racing for my Weber carbed 320 pickup. I believe it's the Spectre Industries 2517 but I purchased it over ten years ago. That's the one on their site that looks like the one I have though they may have changed the model number. It's universal, comes with several size fittings, is adjustable from 1-5.5 psi and I can attest to their durability as it still works fine to this day.

His is a 77. The oil pressure signal is only in the fuel pump circuit on the 78 and up cars. I posted the chart for his car in another thread. The problems are obviously caused by the previous owner and since I have no idea what was actually done, I have no suggestion other than to compare what's there to the wiring diagram and try to correct it which is what I think he's doing.

I'm one of the aforementioned "many supporters who will probably show themselves in this thread" but, alas, you can't find parts for flat tops anymore, the machine shop that I used to fix them back in the day has long since closed and the guy who used to help me set them up passed away about two years ago. I still contend that they can be made to work as well if not better than round tops but round tops are so much easier. I've never heard of Z Therapy doing any work on flat tops. I'm sure that Mr. Palmer's recommendation for them would look something like this:

On a 75-77, this is the algorithm for fuel pump operation:

Do you know for sure that the fuel pressure is 35 (actually should be 36.3 according to the FSM) and each injector has a pulse and is opening and closing?

Personal identity is more important than the sale of a car. I'd steer clear of this buyer unless he wanted to do it under my terms. In fact, I'd probably steer clear of him anyway due to the 'bad vibe' that scenario would likely have given me.

It says the current bid is 1,561,000 JPY. Wouldn't that be more like $15,000 USD?

I had to laugh at that one even though you're talking about a pretty serious situation. Remember, Tina came out much better in the long run after the experience. Good luck down there, guys.

My cars are about as 'done' as I'm going to do with them. They run and perform properly, everything functions on them, and they look halfway decent. Sure, there's always something that could be done to make them 'better' but I have more important thing to do with my money. What you said, Arne, applies to how I view each of my vehicles.

Thanks, Randy. I haven't been down that way for a while. Next time I visit my stepmom or son who both live in Pomona, one in NW Pomona and one in NE Pomona, I'll drive by Elvan's and see if he's home.

When you say "leaks fuel from the injectors" do you mean that the hoses leak, in which case you could simply replace the hoses, or that the injectors leak fuel into the cylinders? You've already purchased new ones so I guess none of that matters now. Two things happen with old injectors. Either the coil insde them burns out, in which case I wouldn't bother with them, or the nozzle gets clogged causing them to stick. If they stick open, they leak into the cylinder and if they stick closed they don't inject fuel. As long as the coil is good, I use my pressurized cleaner and a tester I made to pulse the injector while I run the cleaning solution through it. Once it's clean and the nozzle properly opens and closes, I replace the pintle cap, the small and large seals on the bottom and the hose. Basically, that's what a shop does to 'refurbish' them and they charge more than I think that job is worth. If you send them to a shop that actually disassembles them, replaces the coil (if necessary) etc. and reassembles them, the labor alone would make that type of rebuild cost more than buying a replacement injector. As far as removing them, I remove them with the fuel rail so that you're actually pulling all six of them at once. That's the easiest way. Be careful with the screws that hold each injector in place as the heads on them strip easily. I replace those screws with allen head screws for future dissassembly. The clamps can be reused if they are in good shape but I'd use new seals and of course new hoses. Hopefully all of that stuff will come with your 'new' injectors.

I corrected the word 'they' from 'the' and I don't care for the green text, sorry. Anyway, the stock fuel pump on a 78 is electrical. They're still available and as you've probably discovered, somewhat pricey. This is an area where I would suggest the OEM fuel pump and not the aftermarket one that most of the chain stores sell. And if you think you have problems now, wait 'till you put that Holley on it.

Until Mitchka revived this thread, the only people posting in it were yourself and three members who, though for different reasons, don't post here anymore.

Does it run? Looks to be fairly complete and not as rusty as some I've seen from what I can see in the pics. It will be some work but I think $1500 would be a good price for it in this day and age. I notice it has the 2400 cc valve cover. I'll even give you the correct 'OIL' cap for it. (Does anyone really still use dial-up besides my mother-in-law?)

You have to loosen the nut on the front of the pulley first. (and tighten is once the belt tension is set)

I know that you can be. I won't say I knew it all along but I figured out your thing a while back. Well.....as much as one person can figure out another, especially on the internet:cheeky:

If you had loosened the long bolt that is behind the pulley, it would have loosened the tension on the belt. At that point, you could have removed the belt from the idler and carfeully fed it over the fan and removed it without removing the shroud or cutting the belt. I've done it several times on that type of setup. I guess it's too late now.

You might owe Will an apology:)

Someone else will have to answer the question about smog pump. The bearing, which can be replaced, is the problem with your idler pulley. I've redone a few of those in the past. The bearing is available at most auto parts stores but they come in different sizes so be sure to match yours up as far as outer diameter and center bore diameter. Disassemble the pulley assembly, remove the snap ring, press the bearing out, press the new one in, replace the snap ring, reassemble the pulley assembly, re install it, adjust the belt tension and you're done.

Have you tried tightening the bolt? It might just be that the loose bolt is allowing the pulley to move back and forth on the bolt which is really a combination bolt/shaft.

Andrew, this guy is not for real. It's just some type of perverse game that he's been playing ever since he's been on this site. He can spell 'discount' and 'membership' but not 'store'? I think he's just looking for a reaction.

I don't believe that the_cafe has ever asked a 'seriously asked question' since he's been on this site. I think he's having fun with us, for whatever reason, so we were just having fun with him.

Let me take a shot at this: Shouldn't you just put the water directly in the gas tank? That way the tank of gas will last even longer because the car won't be using it up.