sblake01

No, because I can put power to the plug, pull the socket from the housing and the bulb stays lit. If anything, the housing serves as a redundant ground.

Factory service manual. You can download a copy here.

For all intents and purposes would be the correct phrase. I can't count the number of times my father corrected my use of the malapropism "for all intensive purposes". Sorry, I experience a flashback whenever I hear that phrase. He was a great guy.

I guess that would help hold worn bulbholders but they ground through the wiring not the housing.

Be careful of that L24E they list(#314B). It's for sedans as it is a front sump engine and oil pickup would have to be modified, and the oil pan and dipstick would have to be changed to fit an S30/S130.

I hate to say it Tim but you've asked so many questions here about your car that could have been easily answered by reading the FSM that it seems like you're beginning to lose the crowd's attention.

Greg, my bulbholders snap in and stay in place with no problem. It sounds like your bulbholders have lived a rough life. New ones, or better used ones, can be spliced into the harness. I've done it.

Welcome. There are a myriad of things that could lead to that scenario so at this point I'd just be guessing. As far as a schematic, go to http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html, scroll down to '1978 Datsun 280z Factory Service manual - Complete 74.3mb Zip File', save it, and you'll have what I think is the best technical reference there is for that car.

The vacuum pot can be removed and the springs, etc. can be changed to allow the mechanical advance to operate in a way sufficient for the Webers. Never done it with a Nissan distributor but we used to do it all the time with Chevy and Ford distributors back in the day.

It leads to the ignition switch and a fusible link that powers the accesory circuit. As long as it was properly cut and spliced it shouldn't cause any problems.

Since it's an auto trans and it's not going to be raced, wouldn't an E12-80 distributor be the best route to go. Much easier install.

I think he's thinking of a progressive setup like I had on my 340 6 pack Duster. I've never seen one for an inline engine.

If you don't have them, here they are: EFI Bible 1975 280 Z FSM

First thing I would check is the connection at the water temperature sensor. If the connection is good there, test the water temperatue sensor as per the FSM.

He might have a dash cover. If that's the case, the tach and speedo aren't comming out........

I was trying to figure out where you are located until I noticed the 'SF'.:stupid: In Southern California, South Bay is a region of the southwest peninsula of Los Angeles County. Mahanhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach, El Segundo, etc. There's also a South Bay in the San Diego Area. Cities like Chula Vista and National City.

A diagram wouldn't really help much. I have a spare speedo and tach that I look at to get an idea where the bulbs are but getting that image in your mind and feeling around behind the guages in the car are two entirely different things. I do basically what Dave said but I use a small lighted mirror that I borrow from my wife (don't tell her). It is thin enough and must have button cell batteries and LED bulbs. I don't know where she got it or what it's designed use is but it sure works great for under dash type stuff.

I've never heard of that causing ECU damage but I've heard of cases and actually seen one case where it sends a spike back to the distributor and fries the module. So it's not just 280Z's. I wouldn't do that on any car that has electronic ignition.

Maybe it's just the photo but, IMO, the OEM finisher color is lighter.

It's the 'Y' in Toyota that does it. At least, Datsun is greater than Nissan. If you could somehow find a way to work the 'Z' into it.........Thanks alot, Billy! Now I need to go find something worthwhile to do.

I use a tool that was actually designed to pull hydraulic lifters to remove pilot bushings. They're not that hard to remove but you don't want a used pilot bushing anyway or, at least, I wouldn't use one. I wouldn't go with just a 'hardware store' bolt. It should be a grade 8 or equivalent automotive bolt. I do believe a 79 ZX differential would work in a 76 because they hadn't changed the flange mounts yet, that was either 80 or 81 but someone needs to check me on that. The difference is in how the half shafts mount to them and I believe you can put the flanges from the earlier differentials on the later ones but youl'd also need the mustache bar that goes with an R200 (again, from a Z not a ZX). Like Arne said, I'd wait on that anyway, you're going to have your hands ful with the tranny swap.

If I were in your position, I'd stick with the 280Z. From what I've read about your car I don't think you'd get what you've put in it if you sold it right now. And the 240 you're describing sound to be in lesser condition with some questions surrounding it. And like Arne said it sound overpriced in it's present condition.

Welcome to the 'brother act'! Have you been to http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php? You'll find that there is a lot of great info here but not a lot on V8 swaps. There's some but you'll find a lot more over there.

Arne, for question #2, sound to me like he's referring to one of the small bolts that holds the pressure plate to the flywheel. I don't know if they are the same as the bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter. I've had good luck in removing broken bolts from flywheels with a Crafstman screw out tool mounted in my drill press. If it gets a good enough bite on the broken part it will spin it out without having to actually drill it. A machine shop could take care of that. Don't forget to buy a pilot bushing. If you're not sure what that is, it's the bushing that goes in the end of the crankshaft and the input shaft of the manual trans rides in it. Auto trans cars don't have them.

Doesn't matter which wires since all the connection does is complete a ground allowing the signal from the starter to get to the cold start valve when the temperature in 35 degrees celsius or less. I think it's just coincidence that the problem started after you replaced the water temp switch because it has no effect on cooling. Check for the usual things, collapsed cooling hoses, thermostat sticking, fan clutch not operating properly, water pump, etc.