sblake01

Great...just what this thread needed.

The screen is in the pump inlet. The tank is baffled. Larger particles may not come out when you drain it.

Mike did give you a 'heads up' didn't he? Air this out elsewhere.

Those wires appear to be the ones that would connect to the pickup coil on the stock distributor. Not sure if those would affect your tach. I also notice that the coil has been changed. That could be the cause of the tach problem. In the stock setup there's a blue wire from the - side of the coil and a black/white tracer wire from the + side of the coil. Those two wires are for the tach circuit. Assuming that nothing else has been changed, I'd locate those wires and connect them accordingly. If they're already connected then I'd assume that the tach itself is bad. That is, again, assuming that nothing esle in the tachometer circuit has been cut/changed/removed, etc. What distributor is the one that's presently in your car?

You'd have to remove the fuel pump to see the inlet screeen. Dropping fuel pressure as you accelerate indicates either a blockage in the lines (likely) or tank or a problem with the pressure regulator or pump (doubtful).

I'm not sure which fuse box a 72 has, console mounted or side panel mounted, but in either case, carefully check the fuse marked 'DOME LAMP-LUZ-INSTRU'. Should be a 10A. Don't just probe it in the fuse box. Take it out and check it making sure that the end caps aren't loose. And make sure that the fuse holders for that fuse are free of corrosion, etc.

What does the pressure do if you press the accelerator? Be careful with that fuel pump inlet screen as there are no new replacements available.

It should pretty much remain constant as 36. Does it go continue to go down causing the car to stall? If that's the case it sounds to me like DZR's synopsis is accurate. My car sat for four years before I got it and exibited the same symptoms. Eventually replaced the tank and it's been running ever since, over 11 years now.

Here's a write up on using the GM HEI module with a Datsun distributor. It's for a 620 pickup but the installation should be the same for a 280Z distributor. http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=184

Check the fuel pressure when you start it and see if it remains constant or drops as the car throttles up and down.

I don't suggest swapping ECU's just yet. People always seem to suggest that but in my years of dealing with these cars I only actually seen one of those go bad and it was caused by the car owners lack of wiring skills. What John is referring to as 'located by the wiper tank' are actually dropping resistors not relays but I wouldn't look at those yet either. The statement "I got the car after it sat in a garage for a few years" leads me to ask if you checked the fuel tank for blockage caused by sediment from the old fuel. Fairly common problem on these cars when they sit for long periods with old gas in the tank.

The front windshield and cowl both appear to be missing in that first pic.

Have you checked the temperature sensor?

Not sure if it's linked to the dimmer, I have to look that up, but it is linked to the turn signals. A bad flasher switch will cause your turn signals not to work.

Well, what's important is that she likes it. I'm not a fan of FWD, transverse engines, etc. The semi retro Suburban styling is interesting though. I've seen people do some wild custom things with them.

Don't know if I'd want to pile kids into it though...........that's what this if for:

I don't know about that....maybe she could draw them!

In the long run, you'll be better off with a stock pump. New or rebuilt. That one that they sell at most of the chain auto parts stores is junk. Won't last a year. I've never put one in my car but I've done a few for other people (while protesting and warning the owner of emminent failure but it's their money!). I've replaced one stock pump among the two cars I own that have that type of pump in ten years! And that one works fine now and is my spare after I cleaned it out and replaced the check valve.

I'd imagine that you would connect the red and green wires from the 77 dist. to the terminals on the module in the same relation as the red and green wires were connected from the ZX dist. For the external 'c' and 'b' terminals on the E12-80 module you'd wire them the same way you'd wire an E12-80 dist. in a non E12-80 car. How would you mount the module? Does it actually work? Don't know, I've never seen it done. Might be easier to use the far more plentiful and much less expensive GM HEI module. I have seen that done.

After you get it started, assuming that it runs properly at that point, and you get it up to operating temperature and turn it off, will it start again on it's own? If not you've got more issues than just a cold start valve. Like Jeff said, more info is needed.

And it has company:

Wouldn't even consider it without seeing it.

Those will be tough to find. In Garagegoon's link, the door weatherstrip for a 80 coupe is listed as unavailable as well as the hatch seals except for the inner. You could also try here but they don't list door seals: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ICATALOG/Z/t.aspx?Page=12

It's looks like another varation of the ones made by Kakimoto Racing mentioned earlier in this thread.

I had one of those...well it was a NX1600. It was my DD for about three years. Great MPG and fun to drive. My wife drove a Senta at the time though not a SE-R. The SE-R you speak of would actually be a 3rd generation Sentra. There were no SE-R's in the first and second generation. The blue Celica in the background was mine also.