dogma420

Just trying to brainstorm here, I get a new msa clutch master cylinder, it's been installed for about 2 years. The black res. cap has never really fit well, and will just slide out if you pull up on it, without any twisting at all. Looks like a design defect. I would like to make it seal better.... ...has anyone solved this problem? Thanks in advanced, Dog

What makes you blame the SUs normally is some other tuning item that goes out of tune and then the fuel/air mixture gets messed up. The path of fuel from jet to valve is almost straight for a SU, whereas it has to go down and then up and in with webbers (2). I got the su videos, great stuff. SUs really only have to be tuned and balanced once per tuneup. If you are tinkering them anymore, then they are leaking at the throttle shaft/worn out or something else is out of tune. You won't be able to sync them if anything else is off too much.

Help, if possible! I have never replaced a master cylinder before....done all the other items on the brakes many times before.... Can anybody explain the procedure? I just bought a new m.c. from MSA. Thanks, Dog

Almost new Nissan OEM electric fuel pump for sale, very expensive. Make offer.

Have a OEM Nissan very expensive brain box, only about 8 years old. Make offer

Hey all, hows everyone? I'm doing good, except my 72 240 4speed has been sitting about 2 months....I know that the clutch isn't 100% perfect, and I've been meaning to replace it (i have a new one in the box, waiting for a 5 speed to come in the mail...) Anyways, I went out to drive it around the block as normally I do, Just haven't lately (in 2 mo) because the carbs need to be synchro'd and I'm lazy... anyways, the clutch is what seems to be completely disengaged. I can shift into any gear and it appears to be in neutral, or with the clutch pedal pushed all the way in. The slave / braided cable / master for the clutch has all been replaced within last year, and when you look at the fork, it moves back and forth when someone presses on the pedal. Is this needing replacement, or is there anyway to 'clank' it back to running down the road? Anyone else had this problem, clutch doctors out there? Thanks in advance, Dog

Hello everyone! I'm thinking about coil overs, but have no clue.... Since it is cartridges all the way around, do you convert to macpherson struts at all 4 corners? ie. get front strut cartridges, and cut the outer strut housing and weld the coil overs? I'm under the impression that the chapman struts on the rear don't have cartridges.... Any help before considering getting coil overs would be great! 10/71 240z (1972) stock. 2 door

My 72 could use a new one, ...it's in perfect condition from the outside.... ...has anyone considered rebuilding one? If so, please respond....I would think this is the cheaper route, but I've never heard of anyone taking one apart and rebuilding.....

Thanks a lot for the answers guys, ok, so the points replacement from Pertronix sounds good. If I'm just going to get a replacement stock distributor, should I get the European one (that MSA sells)? It is slightly advanced. Also, after the distributor, what does everyone suggest for the best coil combo? I'm using NGK stock spark plugs / high pro wires from MSA. Thanks for all your suggestions!!!!

Hey all, thanks for reading. I have a 100% stock 10/71 '72 240z, only mod on motor right now is the smog belt is off. (and froze subsequently since). I see everyone with all smog stuff off, and was wondering what books if any are recommended for making a Z real clean lookin the carb area, with all the smog items removed. I already have no water going through the manifold. Any and all recommendations would be appreciated. Heres some rambling: 1. All the stuff that goes to the smog pump, can all of that just be removed, and the holes in the manifold, etc. be capped? I am going from the stock orange air filter housing to 2 k&n style filters, with no coolant going through the manifold. It doesn't matter to me if I keep this manifold...It has a 88 head on it, can I go with the non water cooled manifolds from earlier Zs or are they just for the E31? I'm assuming a small breather filter will be put on the head breather hole that would normally run into the air filter housing, and the line for the pcv valve stays intack. 2. My distributor is worn out (30+ years, the shaft is loose like an old whore)....I'm definitely thinking non points...thinking a fully electronic w/out mech advance would be the way to go.....has anyone tried just putting a points style dist back in, and using the cheapo looking point conversion kit like MSA sells, that puts a infrared type doohickie in there to eliminate the points? Its so cheap, I wonder if it really works worth a darn.... 3. Lastly, I get some strong gas smell from the gas inlet right after filling up, so I'm replacing the entire inlet hose on the gas tank, taking out the tank and cleaning up. In this situation, should all the evap lines be replaced or is it possible to just cap all that stuff? I'd rather do that. Any info, much appreciated....sorry for cross posting diff questions but rambling is a disease -Dawg dogma420@hotmail.com

the carpet behind the seats has never 'extended' under the seats on 240s. there should be some of that jute material under there but stock, no there never was anything.

I didn't know if fiberglass could be chromed either, so I called around. Everybody said "anything can be chromed" ....I was expecting 'hell no what a stupid question'. They are a lot harder to chrome, so they cost a little bit more, something like $500 per bumper. and if someone even gently touches them (in a driving situation) I bet they're dust. But w/o chrome, they are so cheap, MSA$120 ea. Hey, everybody, if I got the fiberglass one piece bumpers front and back, what color to paint? My Z is a red100 white interior 72 (so it is orange) just like in my user picture. the guy who owned it before me had painted the taillight area orange, and im going to paint it back to the gray. (unless someone responds and says I have a datsun red rig, and my rear is the gray, lets trade) Would you paint the fiberglass bumpers that gray or body color or ? At this point, I just don't know. The rig has a orange bre fr and rear spoilers (spook). Later, Dogma

is datsundude up and running? as far as a website? I had though I went there before.....I tried www.datsundude.com ?

For custom, you could get some of the new fiberglass bumpers with no holes to put any of the accessories on them, and get them chromed. You need to know somebody to chrome them so you can get a deal....total bumper cost paying full price for chroming is ~600. Does anyone know if there is someone sellling this style of bumper made out of metal chromed for BOTH ends of the car? Both ends one piece, no holes in bumper. I know for instance that Vic Brit sells the front like this, but the rear is still a 3 piece. The one piece is super sharp looking on the rear.

Cool picture....are you related to the jolly green giant?

Unfortunately, those wheel covers are a dime a dozen. The cars they are for, a 74 or 75, there's no value in putting the original hub caps on, like with a 70-72, so nobody wants them.

As said, I am looking for a pre-1/78 manufactured 5 speed from a 280z. (pre 1/78 had the same exact linkage assy vs. stock 4 speed in my 72) Any condition as long as it is rebuildable and no physical damage on the outside. Thanks! reply to dogma420@hotmail.com

bump

I'm looking for a pre 12/77 factor oem 5 speed tranny, so a '77 model year 5 speed. Is there one in either of these part jobs?' If so, email me.

That's just it...time has gotten to these panels, and unlike black that I've had in other zs, these 31 year old panels are all in pieces....definitely not worth refurbishing....but i appreciate the feedback! Thanks everyone.

I have a Nissan OEM Electronic Ignition box for a 1974.5 260z, care was wrecked in '93 and box was bought brand new in '92 for if I remember right, it was $400 at the dealership. It was only used for about a year before the car was wrecked. This is the box under the dash next to the passenger's right foot (on a US car). Please reply to my email if interested, this could save you a lot of money if you have one of these cars! dogma420@hotmail.com

I have an electric fuel pump from Nissan, it was brand new in '92, the car got totalled in the front end in '93, and the fuel pump has just sat. The flex lines were cut, and whole cage is intact with the fuel pump. It is genuine Nissan, and cost approx $300. (don't ask why we didn't get something else). Anyways, I have it for sale, please reply to dogma420@hotmail.com if interested. It came out of a 74.5 260Z, (big bumper edition). I am in Portland, Oregon. Look for my other thread, FS: Electronic Brain Box if you need the box that controls the ignition for the same year car.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. One other thing, any confirmation on the 3 point seat belts from a '73 240z fitting into the stock holes in my early '72 (11/71)...there are retrator holes in the floorpan behind the seats....but I have lap belts...want the 3 point stock belts or reproductions... ...any info would be welcome! Thanks!

$375 + 10%? That's quite a bit for plastic, but if it's the only place to get white plastic, I guess it is reasonable.