dutchzcarguy

Thats a failing resistor in your ignition circuit.. for a test you may shortcircuit the resistor you find near your coil.. I bet you it will stay on! Get yourself a new resistor, or repair the failing contact on the old one!

Good! Start your own resto topic! It's nice to see your own restoration steps later when you are finished! (And we like also to see some pictures of your progress!)

I looked at the website you gave us.. and asked myself... look at the hides there in this pic.... HOW BIG ARE THE EURO COWS???? 😂 btw if i look for alcantara, it's not on that website.. at the moment i don't need alcantara it would be nice to know where one can order some.. never mind..

I assume you mean that the car would be more valuable. Yes and no.. Many people like the originality and others are more pulled to the 5 speed although thats not original on your home market.. (Just my opinion..)

For us euro guys it would be nice to hear the name of shop in Germany?

I told it before but a euro 240z HAS ORIGINAL a 5 speed gearbox with a 3,9 (i believe) : 1 diff. The type Is a Fs5C71B gearbox. In the Netherlands the 240z came a bit later then 10-1969.. it was more halfway 1970? I don't know if the Fs5C71A gearbox was ever in a 240z in the european market.. could be.. Why there is no difference in price.. i don't know.. i only know that i would pay more for an original euro car with 5 speed. Much! more rare..

Sometimes our weatherman does warn for that, after a long period of drought there is alot of rubber on the road and with the first rain it's a slippery slide.. It does not matter if you have new or used or very old tires you will have to be careful.. I always anticipate alot.. you have to with toyo tires from 2005-08 or so haha..

Don't think its black, it's like on your pic. a good thing to do is a ceramic layer on it, costs about 125 dollar i hear.. keeps the heat out of the enginecomp. VHT has the cast iron look paint silver.. but is not as durable ofcourse. Original they were as on your pic i'm almost sure.

Not from the MC, it;s from a leaky booster, you prob. hear it at best from inside the car near the brakepedal.. Revise your headcyl. and the brake booster..

Thats because these screws are NOT Phillips #2 they are JIS.. a Japanese type of screw recognizable by the little dot near the cross on the head! However you can use a phillips screwdriver if you are a bit careful.. Before turning check fitment and sometimes first a tap with a hammer on your screwdriver will also help unscrew.

Why not dot4.0 ? it's better i always presumed.. And yes zedhead is right, your mastercylinder needs a overhaul.. clean out the mastervac, put after emptying some washing detergent in it and that will soften up the rubbers in it and clean it. Rinse and dry in the sun.. or.. another warm place. 😉

In Germany they say a 10 year old tire is not done.. i drove in the Netherlands with good 15-20 year old tires, no problem.. Of course you have to take into account the conditions but that is using common sense.. My 280zx is at the moment on old tires with lots of thread.. has no cracks at all but these tires are a dissaster on wet roads, very slippery... I like a bit of a slide haha..

I think this is also interesting: 45k-Kilometer 1990 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 16 (Lot #43,272) | Bring a Trailer

Well.. THAT is MUCH to MUCH play!!! The spleens (Hope i have the right words haha) In that yoke have to meet the spleens on the out-shaft perfectly.. with no play, i can clearly hear in your vid. that it rattles.. I looked at the vid few times at it seems to be that your propshaft does NOT fit your gearbox at all! Also i hope you hadn't installed the propshaft, (just holding in your hands) if the shaft was installed, it's a to short shaft! (Like zedhead sayd, from a diff car year..) Get yourself an other propshaft, with good spleens in it and look if your spleens on the outputshaft of your gearbox are not damaged! Must i say it... again.. there should be 0 play on that.. remember also, if your driving in 4 of 5th gear at high speed, that propshaft turns at a very high speed! If that connection breaks there is a possibility that tha shaft will hit the bottom of your car very hard, some say that it can take off your leg(s) if your really unlucky !! So, don't take it lightly. btw, if i see the video, i'm surprised the oil does not leak out immediately.. The play is also that big because your yoke is not pushed far enough onto the outputshaft.

So... nothing to really worry about.... As long there is oil it's going to lube the engine. i make one check: if the camshaft is lubed well at warm and at idle everything is OK! (just look under the oil cap)

Have the raised lip on your current exhaust flange removed or do it yourself with a grinder and the last part on a flat piece of wood with sandpaper on it!) and weld some extra thickness on the spots (on the other side ofcourse) to even out the hight for your stud-nuts and those fat rings.. use the orig fat rings not those tiny things,

It could be that the oil pressure sensor is still not good.. maybe test it in another engine? Or lend a known good one or order another one? In my 280zx i have a new one and my red light in the oilgauge go's on when i lower the engine speed to say 400-500 rpm's, i think that is normal as it normally runs / idles at 700 rpm. Older sensors tend to leak oil through the sensor to the contacts.. maybe yours is also leaky and should be exchanged for a new one. I don't know if your 280z has the 1 pin 240z or 2 pin 280zx sensor. (280zx has a extra pin for the oilpressure light.) Also do not know if your 280z has a red controllight for "oil pressure to low" in the oilgauge..

Since about 10 years you no longer need to install the blinkers on the bumper, and i heared that if the light-image of the installed sealed beam headlights is good they can stay.. Only when the light-image is no good then it has to be changed to another one or the H4 lamps.. I'm not sure if this is correct..

Here you can see 2 other differences besides the 2 little rubber studs where on a US bumper sits the bumperettes.. 1) The spoiler was standard on a Dutch 240z with also the plastic letters "240z"on the left and "Datsun" on the right. 2) The special for the Netherlands numberplate lighting on the bumper (yes a Dutch RDW (DMV) Rule) in chrome with 2 glasses and fittings in chrome caps! These extensions are very rare! The upper numberplatelights had no fittings or lights in them!! It just sat there.

Nice pic's! .. I looked for that numberplate long ago but it's no longer on file at the Dutch DMV called RDW, so i suspect the car is scrapped a long time ago..

YES !!!! Those i meant ! Did they never have back up lights or was it only on the early ones.. that is the question now haha..

extra! Original Dutch blinker.. (AND the original rubber piece that go's in the holes for the US. rozettes! directly under the light)

I can (as a Dutchie) tell some more about those odd things on the front bumper.. My first resto of a 240z was in 1991, by then the cars were 20 years old and i could still get all the original parts at my local dealer, after a while i was like a employee at the Nisssan dealer and could order all the parts i wanted myself on the microfiche system (remember computers were not used for the early car types.) I bought then many new 240z parts also the front blinkers, they came in beautiful chrome, and.. are on my 240z till this day! The reason for them was the Dutch RDW (sort of DMV) sayd in their regulations that blinkers on cars for the Dutch roads should have them on a sertain hight. The blinkers were standard under the bumper on a "regular" 240z and that was to low! So my first Dutch 240z had them on the bumper for that reason. As i then restored a 240z in 2000 the regulations were still the same and i had to change the blinkers of my USA model 240z to blinkers on the bumper.. Since about 10 years those rules are made more liberal so the American cars no longer need the blinker mod. Something else.. I got some rear lights from a car out of France, and... they have no lights for reversing! As we know a euro version has red white and orange lights/reflectors, but this set out of France is only red and orange !! Has any one seen these before? Are there more country's that have 'em? Maybe it was an early version type i don't know, i only know i've never seen them! (They came with a whole load of other parts i once bought from a Belgian guy and he had it from a Frenchman.) Could not find a pic of them so these should do.. imagine the white part is also orange! Thats what i got from France.. A extra picture of a Dutch 240z with our famous soccer player Johan.. Translation: Johan Cruyff: also fast on the road! (It's a nice picture, just wanted to say i HATE soccer.. so i know the man but i really do not care..haha)

Metall plates on the gasket against the exhaust-manifold. SO, like it sat on your engine. Did'nt i see this pic of yours in another topic? Your gasket is no longer usable, and you have to check your exhaust manifold because it leaks on more than one place! (see the black soot on the gasket and the engine.. Can you put a picture of all 6 exhaust- outlets here? With the gasket on and then one pic without the gasket.. It's a leaky exhaust, because of the bad exhaust manyfold contact area.. it was leaky for some time, evidence is the soot.

When the head is off, you have to check if everything is strait as an arrow.. use a ruler and some feeler gauge.. (or shine a light under the ruler and look for light on the other side ) Reading about how it's done is always good.. Also many vid's on youtube about it.