dutchzcarguy

Oh YES..That could be the problem. I've got a Beckman Industrial .. (But that's for the pro's haha) These days you can get a multimeter for 20-50 $ , but 45 years ago i bought me, as a little boy a analog multimeter as also a friend did.. But he tried to measure the internal resistance of a wall-socket.. it turnt very shortly into a fan.. 😂 I'm proud to say mine still working after many many use, and 45 years!! Back to topic.. It's always good to have more than one meter.. i got 5-6 .. but i'm an electronics guy.. (old electronics haha.. that new stuff is unrepairable!! made to throw away!!) Another tip: always close (short circuit) your meter leads before measuring Ohms.. you should read about 0 ohms.. then measure the cable or fuse whatever. also use sharp pointy test probes.

I once had a reading of over 10 M-ohms between the battery plus and the cable clamb on it!!! and could not SEE anything wrong with it.. so .. and i sayd it a lot of times, new does not mean it is a perfect part.. check your connections.. 8,2 ohms is way to much for a battery (realy FAT) cable..

Vid's tell me almost nothing.. engine has hick-ups.. I looks like a electrical problem.. there are many parts that could be the culprit. Maybe you could change a part and look if it's gone.. do this with all electric parts that could cause the problem. 31,4 ohms between battery minus and chassis?? that's much to high! Clean contacts, use a contact cleaner. Get it under 1 ohms..

I see the ad.. here it does not start itself.. never had that on czc.com

BTW.. is the blue in the glass or is it a tinted blue inner layer in the front glass? (I think it's in the glass itself as it is in the rear hatch glass?)

"ding" "please drive more carefully!! " "ding"

Only the underblock? i think a 1200 euro? and the head is a very special one (E30! no not the E31!) in excellent condition for 1500 euro.. block was painted long ago and never used again (1990!) and head was revised in around 2007-08.. But then i restored my own engine orig. to my car and did'nt use it again.. These parts are stored in grease/oil in a heated garage .

I think the rear hatch glass is meant..? An amerikan/english confusion.. 😉 Are they gona make them tinted and in blank glass? the 240z's glas is tinted blue-ish..

Like on a ordinary record the needle passes through the groove, normally it only has one LONG groove. Here there are about 10? different grooves all lying next to each other, the Needle "knows" what track it must take by the different inputs.. It's simple technique but a reliable system Haha.. Thank you very much for the interesting video! BTW.. I think that it can be used during driving, how could BB (bitching Betty (so funny!)) warn otherwise for low on fuel? "ding" " I'm still good for another 300,000 Miles " "ding" ...

"Ding" ... " I thank you very much " ... "Ding" !! 🙂 Nice pictures! and it's all so clean inside after almost 40 years!! "ding" " Back on topic " "Ding".... 👩‍🦰

Thank you for that pic.. but (oeps) i was more interested in the parts inside, is it realy like a recordplayer inside? Don't drop! yeah i can feel why!

AH!! Again thank you! Maybe someone could make a thread special on this subject.. all the different s30 and s130 chassis "designations" it is called i believe? ( My english is not THAT good hahaha...)

Very.. Very nice List! only the: BY should be a PLUS or: "+" then it's a perfect list of 280z/zx's delivered only in Japan. (as i understand now!) Thanks for the list HS30-H !! I know that the L20E was a 2 ltr engine for the s130 it had to do with high taxes in Japan if your car had more than 2.0 ltr engine.. so there are probably few 2,8ltr 280z/s130 cars?

As far i know the euro types did'nt have it..? Mine is a first ed. 1979 and does not even have elec. anything... hahaha.. Hahaha... i'm happy it has a alternator so i don't need to charge the battery every time i drove the car! 😂 Yeah! I know what you mean! At the moment i'm selling a few things here local and.. man... how many times i've been to the cellar (my storageplace for half of my parts..) i don't know but many times..

I doubt this is a 280z... It's a s130 chassis so it's a zx.. What's funny.. and seldom people see that.. the Z on the bonnet... eh.. hood is put back after paintjob upside down! 🙂 Also i think when i see all the mess inside the car it drove 172,000 km not 72000km... I bet the tag under the hood says: s130 nissan 280zx.. or it no longer has that tag.

Hi, I live in the Netherlands, (do speak German..) and i have a L26 in good condition with a restored E30 !! head! Makes nice horsepower.. It is still in parts as i did'nt need it so far.. but its all in good condition. and for sale. So if neccessary you got an option near you.. (I'm just on the border with Goch/Kleve DLD. near highway A77) Got a lot of other parts to.. z driver since 1991..

Haha.. These two parts 71854-64E00 and 71859-64E00 turn out to be... FROM A SUZUKI ??? I looked up the numbers on internet and they are shields from a suzuki? I wondered where they fit, they didn't.. not on a 280zx! Someone restoring a suzuki of subaru?? Hahaha.. I think my old painterguy slipped them in my box of parts.. not knowing they are not from a 280zx. (they are on the net for 17-18 euro a piece.) There are a few things i still have to work on.. Got some new gas springs for the rear hatch. and still have to install the pump for the rear windshield washer. and the newish.. rubbers from the front stabilizer rod need some grease.. scweaking noise.. does someone know whats best for that rubber to lube it with?

Thats a plus for the RUBBER euro spoilerlip.. it does not brake very lightly.

I drove 210kph on germany's speedtrack.. oeps i ment "the autobahn" 😉 And it was without the rubber part of the (euro) spoiler. The car ( 240z 1971 all orignal front euro) gets a bit light in the steering but nothing scary (to me..) I'm not sure but the rubber lower part was recommended by a testteam out of europe i think out of the Netherlands?? not sure but there was a recommendation to make a spoiler (front lower lip) to make the 240z more stable.. again not sure but i remember something like that.. I once had a 240z (dutch original.. so euro type) and it had such rubber lip.. it was not retrievable. Maybe i got some (paper..) pics of it somewhere..

The first job after school was at a importer from ReVox.. Studer-ReVox recording stuff/ audio equipment , so i've been in Switserland to learn how to restore Prof. taperecorders.. and stuff.. Tapes? i got a hundred for my ReVox B215 cass. player.. i gave that one 2 years ago a service.. and all it needed were two new capstan rubber pressurerollers and some oil.. It's still going strong after 34 Years !!! Btw, Do you have any pics of those little recordplayers out of a 280zx?

Get yourself a glas.. rinse it with water.. hold it upside down.. now after 30 sec hold it on 15 degree.. what happens the last drops fall off.. I think that's best.. can't think of any other reason.

Definitly not aFS5W71B, maybe the FS5W71C?

Has someone pic's of this apparatus? Hahaha a recordplayer... must be very small....

Real Humor from eddy: Song Lyrics: My car talks, man. I got one of those 1982 Datsuns. You leave yo' lights on, the car say- *dooo* 'Lights are on'. It does. I take a girl out, I leave the lights on on purpose, you know? Get out the car, car say- *dooo* 'lights are on'. Girl say, "Did your car say somethin'?" I say, "Yeah, it did." I bought it from my neighborhood though, got a different rhythm to it. You leave yo' lights on, car say- *dooo* ("black" voice) "Say, man, you lef' yo' lights on!' 'I said yo' lights is on, man! What the f**k- you blind and deaf? Turn off yo' ******' lights!" I got in the car the other day, turned the key, car say- *dooo* Hey, man! Somebody stole yo' battery! I say we go get the m**********r!" ©1982 Eddie Murphy (Stavro Arrgolus)

Basically all metal should indicate zero Ohms.. (you will have always a bit like 0.05 to 0.15 ohms or so in the leads and the contact you try to make..) Acceptable is a reading of max 1 ohm or so.. (if you close your meter cables you must read something like 0,1 ohms or less.. if more you can deduct the numbers.. example.. you close your meter leads together and it reads 0.8 ohm.. you measure between batt minus and the engine 1,9 ohms.. your real resistance between the engine and the batt minus is 1,9 - 0,8 = 1,1 ohms.. this is acceptable. Best is of course R= 0.01 - 0,2 ohms. If you make all the contacts very clean and spray some coppergrease you will get that.