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Everything posted by ensys

  1. Hello, All: I'm looking for two OEM FI hose clamps to replace damaged ones on my '77 280Zs very original engine. While aftermarket versions are working for now, I consider them a temporary solution. Thank you for your attention.
  2. A casual poke thru the Parts Manual shows that the 280 oil pan part no. was first used in the fifth mo. of '71.
  3. Now folks, show some respect for what may be a very valuable car. According to the owner, you are looking at the world's only Front Wheel Drive Z. Ought to be worth a fortune.
  4. I'm showing my age of course, but trying to buy a car off the web reminds me of Blanch's signature line from "Streetcar Named Desire", that "I have always depended on the kindness of strangers", a metaphor for tragic naivete. Ya gotta evaluate in the first person to do yourself right. Take the Z that started this thread. Only a personal visit could validate the possibility that it's wearing more original paint than just in the engine room and at the tail/around the hatch. Heck, my orig. '77 looks that good with a wash and a wax. It's possible. One might think curiosity alone wou
  5. I have always used the same product as the Factory (asphalt-based undercoat) because: - It is an effective, durable, and workable undercoating that seldom separates from the substrate when properly prepped or painted. - It blends well when patching or expanding the coverage. - It maintains the look of originality. - Application is nearly foolproof; just wash and let dry as prep. Also cleans up with WD-40. - The good stuff is still cheap.
  6. No "lace-on cover" there. Looks like it (whatever it is) takes a pretty common 6-bolt adapter.
  7. Mr.Z650: Well, since you asked... Disclaimer: these decisions are highly subjective and depend upon one's personal vision of use. I chose to continue the Z's role as a driver, biased toward open road work. Clearly, not a "boy racer" solution. For joints, I used names (like Moog) that I know and that provided service ports, i.e. "grease zerks", to provide safe operation and extended service lives. I replaced the ball joints, strng. rod ends, and top strut bearings, whether they needed it or not (last front end re-build was about 100K mi. ago (none actually "needed" replacement, t
  8. Mr.650: Given the car's age and condition (by now you realize the mileage is likely more like 130K, right?), and since you figure to perform tweaks that will require extensive disassembly anyway, it would be wise to rebuild all of the front suspension, replacing all the joints, and probably some of the bushings Helpful tip: whenever available, always use joints that can be serviced (and do so regularly). "Sealed for Life" guarantees a short one. Just an observation... PS: I can't say exactly how much I've lowered my '77, but I've been quite happy with 205/65 15s for quite s
  9. " Can't believe a mechanic thought it might be $138K miles". Frankly, I'm with the mechanic. I find it improbable that in the first, apparently casual, 38K mi,. the oil press gauge would fail. Even more so that after mulling his options, he would elect to add an aftermarket gauge on his young and still newish Z. Further, if it were I, I'd be wondering about the paint thickness too. I think a leisurely exam of the undercarriage would be illuminating. Anecdotally, add this kind of moral ambiguity to the bald-faced baloney from the seller and the peanut gallery, how is it wrong t
  10. Cowabunga! The BIC pen gambit is a fine bit of inspiration. Sometimes the obvious solutions are the hardest to ken. Thanks Dennis. Ah, Mr.Kwin; nice to hear from a kindred spirit. As most of my posts were blown out in a zillion small pieces, I will have to make the most of the pen idea. The only issue might be plastic type, but I've just re-done the pesky console break using an Oatley multi-blend billed as good for ABS, PVC, etc., so we will see. So, its off to Office Depot for a few BIC sticks. Still cheaper than the rods I bought, and no careful drilling req'd. Now, if I can find the ri
  11. That's roughly my plan, all right. Tho I don't figure to surgically remove the vertical bulkhead extension behind the seats, as tempting as the thought might be. Originality, and all that. Plus, it will keep loose luggage from striking the seatbacks. Also, I'm looking for a skinny spare on a 15" wheel to get the overall dia. closer to that of the road wheels. This will not fit into the well for a flat floor of course, but will occasion shorter (bolt-in) supports/belt mounts and vertical partition and at the edge of the spare. This will require new carpet pieces, so I figure to do edged cu
  12. That's roughly my plan, all right. Tho I don't figure to surgically remove the vertical bulkhead extension behind the seats, as tempting as the thought might be. Originality, and all that. Plus, it will keep loose luggage from striking the seatbacks. Also, I'm looking for a skinny spare on a 15" wheel to get the overall dia. closer to that of the road wheels. This will not fit into the well for a flat floor of course, but will occasion shorter (bolt-in) supports/belt mounts and vertical partition and at the edge of the spare. This will require new carpet pieces, so I figure to do edged cu
  13. The "fuel capacity" thing is correct (a real surprise for web info). The parts manual clearly shows the difference in the spare tire indentation in the top of the two tanks. I'm not sure about the "extra reinforcing" part, but the change prompted a vertical rise behind the seats and some bolt-on vertical risers (at the front of the spare well and a couple-four bent metal posts that also anchor the luggage straps) to support the new false floor. Oh yeah, and the change occasioned the loss of 5 or 6 cu. ft. of usable storage in the back. I've been trolling around for a "skinny" emergen
  14. The repair of the first break by the ash tray actually went well (from some years ago), owing to the piece of compatible plastic I used for the bridging backing. The second, not so much so, as I couldn't come up with another good backing piece (a hunk of a poly-something battery case, as I recall) in my garage . The piece left a very clear impression in all the cyclo-crazy glue and epoxy that I used. The disappointment (an befuddlement) stems from the fact that all that adhesive did not hold the break together. I'm thinking to try roughing the piece up, maybe drill a few small holes,
  15. The lid is original to the car and is shown in the parts manual, albeit rather casually. The lid is listed as one piece, as is the torsion rod hinge assembly and the latch (which is actually 3 pieces). To the best of my knowledge, there is no repro available; only highly modified replacements. While it was the broken screw posts that prompted the investigation, it's OCD that prompts an attempted "repair" of this original part. I did cruise evilbay for a while before buying a replacement lid that the seller pinkie-swore was in "very good" condition. Of course, it was not; in fact, it
  16. Subject: early '77 280Z. Today's Query is a multi-parter... - Any opinions about whether the console and it's armrest/lid shell are of a Styrene plastic? - Has anyone ever felt the need, by necessity ("stripped" screws no longer holding the bottom finisher (a not-Styrene) to the top (Styrene) shell) or OCD urge, to disassemble the console armrest/lid? - Were you crestfallen to discover that most (especially those for the lid hinges) of the top shell's (Styrene) cast-in screw socket posts, were broken/shattered hulks of their former configuration? - Has anyone attempted
  17. All: Well, this new first-hand evidence is certainly a compelling demonstration of the pitfalls of visuals over the web. The first fotos lead me astray regarding the actual hue of the blue, I reckon (tho the jury may still be out regarding the undercarriage...). So maybe it wasn't Col. Mustard in the Library with the lead pipe after all. However, I will reserve a final bark up this tree until after the car's first good wash, over and under. Still, spot on or off the mark, the exercise was an interesting diversion from the same old, same old.
  18. Mr.grannyknot: With all due respect, Sir, I'm not sure I get your point. Even taking into account the florescent lighting and the iffy quality of the foto, the only thing i can say for sure is what the color shown isn't; it is not the same color as the blue on the exterior of the Z under discussion, paint code notwithstanding. Whether or not the color you show is the same color as on the interior tunnel is moot; the point is that the exterior and interior colors do not match. I attach a shot of my 200K mi. 280 to demonstrate the relevance of this point. The
  19. First, Clarification: I'm not trying to rain on anyone's parade. But there is a rather interesting conundrum here, and I never could resist a good mystery. Anyone ever play "Clue"? Now, I realize this is a lot like the blind men and the elephant, but somehow the limited clues make things all the more interesting. I checked and found I was wrong about the exhaust shielding thing; that was only on Cal. 280s like mine. However, the exhaust pipe looks awfully fresh in those surroundings, and with a finish that looks more aftermarket than Factory. On the other hand, I am confident in
  20. "If something looks too good to be true...." No offense, but I see something else again in the available fotos. Between the re-paint (look at the ash tray pocket on the tunnel, always the exterior color), the road rash on the leading face of the suspension, and the discoloration of the exhaust (and where is its heat shielding), my dough's on 100,350mi. Another $.02 from the peanut gallery.
  21. Would I be correct to assume that the end being pried is that at the door trailing (latch) end, and if so, then Step 1 would be to remove the window frame above the door? Thanks.
  22. RE: '77 280Z Gentle Readers: I need to understand the procedure for gently removing the door's upper chrome moulding (w/squeegee), to be accomplished without (with the emphasis on "without") any damage to the existing (in this case, original) paint on the door or surrounding elements. As I understand it, there are no actual fasteners involved, and that the moulding mounts with clips. Can it be done with the lowered window in place, or must it be removed from the door? Would it help to cut off the original (and now ossified) rubber squeegee? What about the inner fuzzy strip?
  23. RE: Happy Ending As I stood on the threshold of seizing recent opportunities, I stubbornly said to mySelf; "Self, one more time". So I donned my HAZMAT gear to troll the turgid nooks and crannies of my overstuffed garage... And lo and behold, there they were, in plainer sight than I care to admit, wrapped in an unexpected guise still fresh in their last coat of paint, and chuckling to themselves over their cruel joke. Thus, my search is absolved by the return of the prodigal wipers To those who troubled to offer suggestions/opportunities, my thanks. Stout Lads. Semi-interesting
  24. RE: '77 280Z Hello All: All that stands between my recently refreshed '77 280Z and the open road, is a missing pair of windshield wiper arms (R & L) and heads (blade carriers). As these items will be used frequently, the OEM pieces will have to be not damaged and completely serviceable. No junk, please. Please reply to <ensys@michiana.org>
  25. ensys

    Fan Quiz

    Then there is this: I have found no reference to the piece of wiring harness that would connect to the main (by the glove box), and extend thru the engine room to the fan (which is shown mounted to the fan sheetmetal bulkhead in front of the radiator). In addition, as so ably noted by Mr.O, one wire is hot, and the other is switched, implying that there is a relay (and its harness) involved in the fan installation. Of course, the likely scenario would have the in (water) line switch (shown in the diagram) connected to this relay for automatic temp-sensitive operation; that would require y
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