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Everything posted by ensys

  1. Mr.Head: Et tu, Brutus? Just when I thought you had a handle on something besides a knife. Let me set you straight: Not being possessed of a fragile ego, asking questions, seeking learned advice, or occasionally putting my foot in my mouth in the process, has never been a problem issue for me; it's how one learns. That is, until I started to do so around here, which is more akin to putting a target on your back.. By the same token, it never occurs to me that "gracious" is the correct response to ill-mannered behavior and hostile demeanor, in what is supposed to be a civil a
  2. Thank you Mr.Head for injecting a note of maturity among this mean-spirited nattering of adolescent bully boys. The only effect I'm trying to achieve is clarity, and hopefully with a little panache. Apparently, this scares some folks, tho I can't, no, I don't want to imagine why. Yes, a problem was solved, but not without the price of being the butt of derision. Frankly, the "brilliance" of the solution was not worth it. Still, it's my own fault for misjudging the situation. I made the error of assuming that helpful advice is more important than stroking egos, and that shared pr
  3. Mr.C.O.: You have aptly demonstrated the value of a fresh perspective. So my Kudos to you, Sir You're half wrong (no.1), but I think you're spot on with no.2, and I'm embarrassed that I did not see it, given the obvious clues. Clearly, not my shinning moment in Deductive Logic. Too many follow-the-wires distractions to notice the diagram's indication of identical harness plugs for the two indicators. I reckon if I had re-installed the seat belt indicator, I would have seen this sooner. I'll have to verify of course, but as that will require doing the inconvenient unmounting
  4. Today's saga is lifted from the pages of reality... In the course of the re-install of the '77 280's floor console, I discovered an anomaly in the operation of the hatch window Defogger; the switch activates the heating grid, but not the indicator at the console. No need to chase a bulb issue tho, as switching the ign. to "On" activates a "test" cycle (that is clearly operated by the "Seat Belt Warning Timer located in the relay group in the pass. footwell) that successfully activates the Defog indicator for a few seconds, so clearly the fault in not in the indicator. Nor is it in the con
  5. ensys

    Wheels w/Z cap

    What size (dia.+width) are these, are all straight, and what are you asking. Thanks.
  6. You can put your hand down Mr.Obvious; we saw them the first time. I'm sure they're fine solutions in their own right, but as none meet the critical criteria of my particular project goals, they are still of no interest to me. To Work: Plan C This iteration taps the nearby feed from the fusible links to provide a switchable and unencumbered source for the Secondary Relay's coil. I believe this resolves the previous issue of contention. The question is, are there more in the wings. The area of change is highlighted on the detail below.
  7. Sorry I didn't meet your standards.
  8. Mr.J: When you put that way.... I don't want to seem ungrateful for the properly explicit analysis, but you could have saved us both a lot of verbiage, if you had said as much 3 or 4 posts ago. But hey, better late than never. Clearly, I am painted into a very tricky corner. Well, if at first you don't succeed... it's back to the drawing board. While I do not yet know how to best use this information, it does make clear the wisdom of getting input from those whose understanding of some complex situation exceeds one's own. I'd like to thank you Mr.J (and all that gen
  9. Mr.J: First and foremost, I appreciate your persistence in the effort to offer constructive criticism. Thank you. Editorial sidebar: However, as the Man once said, "what we have here is a failure to communicate". The first issue is mine, as my old eyes have great difficulty in distinguishing the colors in which your stick-figure diagram is rendered. Add to this that one cannot distinguish a connection from a crossing and, for me, confusion has its head. And frankly, the decision to use your own line colors instead of those in the diagram we are actually discussing, doesn't
  10. Mr.J: With all due respect for your obvious acumen, I believe that your diagram has simplified some germane events out of the circuits. And while the narrative may simply be beyond my grasp, some elements puzzle me. With your indulgence, I would hope some dialog might illuminate my errors. Following the path of your narrative, let us begin with the Secondary relay: While I acknowledge that the metaphor of hi/low switch removal baffles me (as does the notion that the HL could somehow operate without it), it is the case that the returning hi (wh/red) and low (blk/red) HL circuit
  11. Now that's what I'm talkin' about. I thank you Mr.J for your thoughtful contribution. Since my forte runs more to structural than electrical engineering, I must beg some patience with my slow grip. I will have to chew on this a bit before I can offer a proper rely. More later, and again, my thanks for helping me out.
  12. Mr.K: Well, there we are; I wasn't working with a '76 wiring diag. and you don't have one for '77. I don't know what to tell you about the differences between them, but I used the familiar "Classic Zcar" version, which I have found to be quite accurate for '77s like my own. Meanwhile, while my relay diagrams may not be mechanically precise, but they are diagrammatically correct, taken from those shown for the respective relays. Still, I appreciate a continuing education; for example, I have never seen a 2-pole relay that is both Normally Open and Normally Closed at the same time. Liv
  13. Mr.K: Well, I think you'll find that the hot in is at pin 6, arriving on the red/wh directly from the fusible links. The red out of pin 7 goes to the fuse box where it feed the R and L headlights. I interrupt this feed to energize the Power Rely coil when HL are selected from the switch. This event then directly connects the hot feed from the F.L. to the feed to the HL at the fuse block Also, the Power Relay is N.O. as shown. Energizing the coil closes the switch, powering the H.L. This would be a good time to note that despite the fact that the (e) fuse deployment s
  14. For your consideration; Plan B I believe this configuration will preserve all the original switch and indication functions with the least alteration of the (e) wiring. I invite your comments.
  15. Well folks, it's gratifying to see some feedback. Education never ends... First, some comments: - The relay diagrams were lifted from actual relays, chosen purposely with the integrated backfeed buffers (diodes, etc.). I acknowledge that the buffers may not be necessary in this case, but I like the sense of extra finesse. Also, my decision process was influenced by a more intimate knowledge of my own driving habits that employ a more frequent use of beam-switching than may the norm for many. Low-to-hi-and-back-again, plus flashing, added to simple on-and-off, adds up, by my reckonin
  16. Mr.1: I don't know what your size limits are, but it occurs to me that a more popular (and rare) part might yield a better return, while satisfying a pent-up demand. I'm thinking of the inner shell of the Factory console bin lid. Everyone likes them and they are NLA in their stock form. The beauty of the piece is that it is hidden (beneath the soft cover on the outside and a plate on the inside), so "finish" is not an issue, and that it could be re-engineered to provide much heavier screw-socket posts, the single biggest cause of death of the originals. While finding a int
  17. Now, that's what I call rugged nonchalance. Me, I'd be a nervous as a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs that my expensively tricked out V12 would be ingesting dust, dirt, leaves, candy wrappers, rain from an unexpected squall, or the Big Gulp of some passing mope with no conscience while out running errands, or would become low-rise condominiums for the mice in the garage. Kudos for your nerve. But really, what's the story about those wheels and two-sizes-too-small tires. Automatic speed limiters? Science experiment? Bold aero exercise? What pressures do you run to kee
  18. That's quite a snootfull alright. Ought to have some interesting handling qualities. Especially with those wheels and tires... Takes me back to '64 Chebbies roaming the barrios back in the eighties. Of course, it's obvious from the lack of air cleaners that it wasn't meant to actually be driven. Looks good standing still tho.
  19. So, here's a new 280Z headlight relay wiring diag. that needs some vetting by experienced minds. As will become apparent, this is no quickie solution, as it entails reversible modifications at a couple connectors and a few hard-to-source parts. On the plus side, it addresses issues like low-amp switching at the rotary combination, using the (E) power source for relay actuation, and allows keeping the relays inside the cabin. Plus, it includes the Hi-Beam indicator on the Speedo and it frees two spots at the fuse panel (fog lights?). Note: the fuses are sized for stock incandescents, b
  20. Mr.Grit: Well, you've certainly been given a whole bunch of issues to attack, eh? That's called "mental dazzle", and is the enemy of a methodical approach. If I may be so bold, I would suggest that since you know the injectors work just fine, the logical place to begin is with the Cold Start Valve. When you look it up in the Shop Manual, you will see that it is itself, a single injector mounted in the intake tract before the manifold. It's job is to act as an electronic choke that enriches the starting mixture for a "cold" (a term that has more to do with engine temperature than
  21. Well, I'm no "Pro" either, but.... Generally speaking, a head is considered flat if it is within a few thousands across opposite corners. Presumably, if he wants to cut .005", the amount of "out" is likely on the order of something between .001 and .003 and he wants, of course, to cut thru it to "flat". Were it I, keeping in mind that once cut, you can't put it back, and that every cut is another chance for an error that can easily exceed the presumed current amount of "out", I would demure the risk, figuring that torquing it up would pull things right. Besides, be aware that ev
  22. While this is evolving toward the zietgiest of trophy shows, I would digress to the original question; "why me?" I would guess that the judges saw what was evident even in the low res foto, i.e. the surface texture (not the color). Remember, the covers are cast into a finished metal mold, so the surface of the cast piece should be as tight and smooth as the mold. One could presumably re-create an out-of-the-mold surface after abrasion by sanding, burnishing, etc., but then there is the issue of color. Of course, it is presumption on my part, but I should think the only way to av
  23. Speaking of options.... Were there any of the very nicely fabbed headlight covers (glass(?) with chrome edging(?)) from the Factory? Maybe as a JDM item? They'd be almost worth drilling holes for (if they were verifyably Factory). Just curious.
  24. "now am not getting enough fluid to the rear brakes" While bleeding? In operation? Did you ever get the second piston out of the Master Cylinder? All things considered, have you given any thought to installing a fully refreshed MC? Just a thought.
  25. <bump> Still looking...
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