blitzkraig

You know when you replace U joints the two pieces come apart? I was thinking of taking the front part from the T-5 driveshaft and using it in place of the stock piece when replacing the U joint. Turns out the shop I took the driveshaft to was able to just order a whole new front piece with the correct spline.

Well I know I don't post as much as a lot of the other guys here, but regardless here's the one good pic I have of myself. And it is a joke by the way, I don't really plan on taking that path.

That repair is complete BS if you ask me. Unless you knew you were going to a half arse shop I'd say you got ripped. Any decent body guy would have at least welded that hole back up.

Ok that makes more sense. When I originally took ownership of the car the negative cable was bolted to the firewall by the bolt that holds the battery "hold down" to the firewall. After the first hose fried I moved the cable to another spot on the firewall and made sure it made metal to metal contact but I guess the firewall wasn't enough. Anyway, the ground problem is now solved. Guess I'm just twiddling my thumbs until my clutch hose gets here from MSA. Thanks for all the help though guys!:classic:

It happened again. After a frustrating day at work I came home to investigate. I had been having the bad ground problem again and when I went to start the car this morning with the clutch pedal out the hose fried. I tested it for voltage tonight and didn't read anything off it but it got awfully hot when my girlfriend tried to start the car. Anyway, I've ordered a new hose again and bought a new ground cable which is now grounded thoroughly by a bolt to the engine block through the bellhousing. Just curious though, where do you guys connect the ground cable for your battery?

Thanks, I understood what camber meant in terms of suspension but not wheels alone. I ended up getting an offer for some 16inch wheels of the same type. Thanks for the replies though!

I'm looking for just that at the moment! Count me in for front and rear bumpers for my 71! Can he also weld all the parts of the rear bumper together to get one solid piece? That would be svvveeeeet:geek:

I'm trying to find some Konig Monsoon/ALT 180 wheels for my Z and these look like what I'm searching for. However the guy says 2 wheels have a little camber to them, but I'm not sure what this means in respect to wheels. Can anyone explain this to me before the auction ends? I'd really appreciate it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2443032289&category=38662

Seeing that picture makes me regret stopping riding BMX when I came to collegeROFL

Just curious for those of us with the early Zs that have only one supporting strut for the hatch. Does your hatch not sit quite right because of the stresses from years of being supported on only one side? I'm wondering if I should try and 'improve' my 71 by swapping a later hatch and have two support rods.

I would like to have clean shaven bumpers on my 240 with no mounting holes for the rubbers. I think I have two options. I could weld up the holes on the bumpers and try getting the metal perfectly straight and gettem chrome dipped. And then there's the fiberglass bumpers that MSA sells. I want a chrome appearance so I was wondering if it is possible to get some kind of coating on the fiberglass ones like how new cars have a coating on plastic trim to make them look chrome. Is this possible?

I've tried doing a google search and found nothing, so I was wondering if you guys may know the availability of glass for the 240zs. I'm just looking at replacing my windshield and hatch glass after I've painted the car. I'll start calling local glass places soon too.

Well they can't enforce that if they don't know you swapped in a later motor

Well I'm sure you've done this already but check all your fuses! Once those get the all clear check the wiring connections from the harness to the lights' subharness. If it looks like the harness has been butchered by a previous owners you might want to look around on ebay for an extra original harness. Good luck, and never give up on the lil beast. It may fight you often but when it's done, it's totally worth it!

I'm kinda curious as well about the availability of windshield and hatch glass for the early Zs?

Be careful, the location of the noise can be very decieving! I had the same symptoms as you are describing about 7 months ago and before I did anything about it my transmission seized in a parking lot!

Here's a pretty crazy picture http://www.kgw.com/sharedcontent/southwest/pecom/fireseason/graphics/10-27/2003.10.27_NASA_A2003299.1840.1km-LG.html Insurance better pay those people for their homes or people should rise up against them.

Yeah I figured it was just condensation in the system. I'll check to see if it still does that after the car has been run around the block a few times and at operating temp. Word to the wise then, don't get a Supertrapp muffler! All that black sooty water is making it look my car took a crap out the exhaust pipe! Oh well, I guess I'll just cut the thing off and put a regular flow through muffler on....

Ever since I got my Z back on the road I've noticed liquid coming out of the exhaust. I don't mean the occasional drip, I mean if I leave the car running in the same spot for 5 minutes a small black puddle will start forming from the spray. It doesn't smell like fuel, it's not clear like water (I'm not loosing coolant), and it's too thin to be oil. Any ideas on how to stop this??? It's made my Supertrapp muffler turn black with crap all over it and it's just driving me nuts!

Sorry, my last quarter at college has been driving me insane and I forgot about this thread. I'd love to get some Z group started around here but I don't have any free time until December, and even then it's jam time for my Z's paint job!

Hmm...well I'm glad that I'm not the only one with the foggin over problem. They really should notify people of that little side effect in the description of the header, one of the reasons I bought it was for the almost chrome appearance. Oh well, at least it's pretty cool under the hood.

ACK! What does that second knob do and where can I find one??? I've spent many times staring at that empty slot next to the choke knob wondering what the hell went there before! Craig

Hey Victor, have you had any problems with the appearance of your header? I got the same (ceramic coated 6-1) and the pipes have 'fogged' up near the head and I can't clean it to a shine again. Not sure what happened

I ordered new main jets and needles for my 4 screw carbs from Z therapy. The new SM needles would go in loose and when I tightened them down they went cockeyed so the piston would stick. So I had a rebuild kit laying around with spare needles made by someone else and I stuck them in (they don't go in very easily). Anyway, got the needle in one but the second one snapped off with the base still in the piston.

So I've got a broken needle stuck in a piston and I can't get it out. Seeing as my new SM needles were fairly loose in the piston I think I need to replace that little metal cylinder that the needle is placed and screwed into. Anyone know how to get it out? I'm thinking it needs to be pressed up into the piston and out?