Ladashnikov

Thanks, I also think my car is cool I'll fit the old stock camshaft, rockers and springs... then I'll think about buying myself another 316/304. Harder springs had almost no clearance between coils when valve fully pressed (on cold engine after gap regulation), so I think that was the main reason why cam got grinded. Hey Blue... amount of Your knowledge is just astonishing. Almost instant replies with just all the valuable information! If I'd live near You I'd buy You a crate of realy good beer for that info!

Other thing is I don't know If I should link my ignition vacuum advancer before or after the throttle? There is a small pipe near the progression holes' screw, but I don't know if it's for regulation or for the ignition vacuum advance purposes? Oh and I found that those accelerator jets are squirting fuel like mad... even when slow throttle opening. I have to almost unscrew the pump spring screw completely for the engine to not overfuel it. I also didn't unscrew the Back-Bleed/Spill Jet, because I didn't take the whole carb apart... I'm afraid I'll loose some kind of small yet vital part and I'll make the carb useless.

Oh, that explained to me a lot more, than other sources, that were way bigger. Thanks, now I know how things are named I don't know how to measure the fuel level... If someone would tell me what distance should be from the top cover (not the jet cover) to the fuel level, than I would set it to 29mm as it was earlier posted in this thread. Err what's balancing air flow? You mean synchronising carbs using vacuum meter? I don't have a VM, but I will buy myself one soon. I took off the jet cover and unscrewed them. Accelerator jets are numbered "40". I somehow measured the venturis, but it's a +\- 1mm tolerance, cause carbs were still mounted to the engine and there was no way to measure it with a caliper. All the elements have the same symbols, none of them is different, but right carb had emulsion tubes already unscrewed and one jet helder was in the float chamber (!), while the second one was angled and the screwthread on the jet block was somehow damaged, but I repaired that. I didn't run the engine after I bolted back stuff togetger, because of what I found during camshaft gap regulation... It terrified me... Those were new parts and the car ran only 11km after engine rebuild.

Hi, my name is Hubert and I'm from Poland. I do not own any model of "Z" unfortunately (but I've seen a 240Z in my life and I surely won't forget how it looked, sounded and speeded down the racetrack), but I have two SK 40 DCOE Racing Carburetors mounted on my Vaz Lada 2107 car I don't know if I'm posting my message in a good place (if not, then please redirect me to where I can get suitable information). Engine specs of my Lada are: 4cyl OHC 1.3L shortrodded to 1578cc. High compression (though not measured) Sporty camshaft 316/304 (valve timing set up according to tuner's info) Harder valve springs. Electric fuel pump 0.25bar 65L/h 4-1 freeflow exhaust designed and made to get use of 316/304 cam. Engine starts up ok, idles somehow good (engine shakes a bit, yet has constant revs). Real problems start when I rapidly open the throttle... takes more than a second to rev up and when engine finally revs it blows a cloud of black smoke through the exhaust. When I open the throttle gently it's all ok. Another bigger problem is at high revs... I don't even reach them, because no matter how wide throttle is opened engine won't rev more than 4500rpm... only roars louder through the air horns. I somehow tuned it "by ear", but I know it's not the way it should be... and it didn't solved problems mentioned above. I even don't have any manual on how to tune it and link in this thread doesn't work Below there's a video I made to somehow illustrate my problem. Please don't mind clanging of the valve levers... Engine runs the same even when gaps are precisely set up. Some people told me, the ignition timing is off and vacuum ignition accelerator is connected to wrong place; that fuel pump delivers too little fuel for high revs; that carbs are dirty and/or damaged; that jets, choke sleeves and other replaceable stuff doesn't match the engine... all this just makes me crazy, cause I don't know how to diagnose the real problem sources and how to deal with them. Visiting other forums and sites clears my thoughts on how a sidedraft racecarb should work, but brings even more useless information (or no information at all) on how to deal with certain problems. Your forum looks like the only one, that has competent users... not wizards that even don't know there are such carbs, like SK/OER. Ok, here's the video I'd really appreciate any help... and any way to obtain certain parts that could match my carbs to my engine. Cheers . Hubert.