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As far as the fuel tank goes, it depends on it's condition. They can be found without too much difficulty. However, the fuel sending unit is the unicorn and very hard to find. I would start to estimate a sell price around what it would cost to rebuild one, Same with a tank.

This flange goes here. It's the screw in support on the passenger side for the finish piece under the glove box. Sorry for the camera angle as I don't contort like I used to, but tilt your head to the left when viewing and you should be able to figure it out. I remember every thing in that tight area is kind of like a puzzle as far as which piece goes in first because some of them overlap. Good Luck!

This is the best shot I could get while the engine is in the car. It's looking from the master cylinder to the exhaust and intake. If I recall correctly two different size bolts, a 10 and a 12, go through that shield and the bigger heat shield. It will attach after the bigger heat shield is on. One of those "blind" installations where you can't see what you're doing.

In support of Phillips, statement.....photographic proof!

Yep, she's been kick'n both of my hind cheeks for over 24 years and shows no sign of letting up.?

CO is a genius in our barnyard, err..stable, But you're not a buffoon, just somebody I wouldn't trust to be near my sister, daughter, or mother........?

No offense intended but after going through the video again, you really need to spend some quality time sorting out your engine bay. After freeze framing your vid there are a ton of small/medium problem areas. I really don't know where to start but here are a couple of images from a google search of how a stock 76 L28 should look. If you look closely you should identify your parts pics from above and their locations. Unattached components is never a good thing. You are missing a vacuum bottle (the white one in the pics). So you have a few obvious vac leaks from either cracked or missing vac lines. Pg AC36 in your FSM shows where a lot of vacuum lines are attached. And I have know Idea what this contraption (spring) is for....

A couple of things. I could not view your first video. The second one has problems. It's either frozen or choppy and shaken on my screen. Maybe it's too large? But from what I could gather out of it, The idle does not seem bad, nor does the fuel pressure at idle, albeit a tad low, ( but that could the pressure gauge). What I did catch was a floating EFI ground wire that is supposed to be attached to the manifold and some cut hoses at the carbon canister.. Back to where you mentioned you still had some unattached wiring. I recommend this web site. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ created by Philip, a member 240260280, that is an absolute essential bible to help understand your car, complete with pictures and explanations of how and why to do things, This page in particular, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html ,shows where all the ground connections go. Your Z has come a long way but I suspect that maybe there is a bunch of little things that are causing various issues like you're having.

So basically, you chose the skinny jeans (black one) over the baggy jeans (BRE) for your Cover. I've got a medium size cover from Costco that's just a little too big but it does the trick for my fashion sense. And, if you need any help on your rental, My buddy Roy Moore and I will be glad to help....?.

Did you clean or replace the fuel lines when the tank was cleaned? It's possible there is some crud left in the lines and was the fuel pump replace with an OE one or after market? Didn't you have a whole bunch of electrical issues before? Did you ever get them straightend out? I'm not trying to confuse you, just trying to get as much detailed info so we can start to isolate the problem.

Who would like some Pie?

Basically you remove anything that is not sheet metal. That means tail lights and panels, running lights, mirror(s), door handles, antenna, bumpers, headlights, badging, quarter windows, door window frames, probably not the grille. Are you going to paint door jambs and the hatch panel also? Then you might need to remove the hatch hardware and door hardware also and the metal (aluminum) step plates, but the paint shop could handle that with very little effort. The front and back glass is not hard to get out if you just cut it out with a razor knife. Just cut around the edges and have someone help you lift them out. Depending on how well the first refresh was done, there could be rust behind the rear taillight panels or under the front and back glass seals, if it was not handled before. Mine had to be rebuilt.?

I agree with removing parts yourself. That way you can clean/ polish/repair while the car's in paint jail. You might even discover more rust spots that way and help avoid any surprises of more rust spots. All of that stuff is pretty easy to remove, except for the door handles and those aren't too difficult, just awkward for my gorilla fingers....

Yeah, I know that feeling also, but I also know the feeling of making something right again. It's worth it. I'm sure you know ?

There seems to be a lot of doo doo in that song.....?