gwri8

Me Likey Louvers.....

Don't they have color swatches to visually match the color? That's the simple way.

Before you start to glue everything, take Dave's advice and find where it's leaking first. Replacement of defective grommets/gaskets is a better way IMO. When you inspect your rear tail light gaskets also look for any rust in that area. It's not uncommon for rust to happen underneath the slam panel in the rear hatch and even in the spare tire well.

Yep, those gaskets around the tail lights go unseen and un-noticed until you start to smell exhaust. Mine were flat, hard and painted over when I got my car. Didn't really notice it though because it had no inner shift boot and I had a rather nice air flow in my face on a hot Atlanta day, kinda like a kerosine jet heater...... That was the beginning of my Z discoveries.

You said all new gaskets, did that include tail light gaskets also? And what about the inner rubber boot around the shifter?

This was at 2017 Z Nationals. The owner had a lot of paperwork with this car.

I've finally started to rebuild a spare L28E N42block from a parts car I had. It had not run in a veery long time. I've torn it all down and saw nothing alarming as to the condition of the internals. Crank looked good and no scoring in the cylinder walls. I've dropped off the crank to check for straightness and once ok'ed I'll have it polished and then hone and deck the block. If the original pistons check out normal I'll probably re-use those. My plan is to keep it stock, no cams or overbore, however I am considering balancing the crank and pistons/rods. The final use will be for my 77' on down the road to replace the original engine that's got who knows how many miles. The Question is whether or not it is worth the extra cost of balancing for a stock engine. Would any horsepower gain be noticeable or would the result be just a really smooth running L28?

Oooof! Makes me rethink the double cheeseburgers in my near future. Oh well, parts gotta come from somewhere.

Black Friday, that will work. My wife will be out shopping.....all.....day...... so I'll have some spare time for sure.

Wha???? Another Z on my turf? Sure! C'mon up! Post or PM me if/when you confirm travel plans and we can meet up. I'd love to pass on the fine hospitality that Jim 1 and Jim 2 (Zup and S30 driver) showed me.

I can see it now....Us rollin' in pre-dawn, Cars thump'n with bass, so low that we're shaving pavement and of course glowing to the beat. I'll need a new wardrobe and we might have to park with the Infinitys, but I'm in!

Aw, c'mon now. I think the "Close Encounters of the Third Kind" look would really help set you apart at ZCon next year..... https://smile.amazon.com/DITRIO-Underglow-Underdash-Multicolor-Underbody/dp/B071J2ZWS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510585338&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=underbody+glow+lights&psc=1

First of all, Welcome. Hands down, These are some of the best folks around for knowledge and resource information. You'll need to download the FSM and EFI bible here, http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/4-manuals/ Those are going to help you the most on your new journey. Also, check all of your vacuum hoses from the charcoal canister to everything on top of the manifold for leaks/cracks and rot. Also check the PCV hose on the bottom of the manifold. All of those are cheap and easy as well as necessary for a car that has been sitting for a long time. Fuel delivery is also a potential issue and can come from a variety of areas like rust in the tank for example. The more info you give, the better help you will receive. And pictures really help too, even if just to show off your Z.

I don't know the paint code but I had mine custom mixed at an automotive paint store where they color matched from the back side of a panel. The dark brown is actually close to a Ginger color. They tested the plastic of the panels to figure out what type of plastic it was and recommended a water based paint after cleaning with a degreaser and using then SEM Sand free for proper adhesion. It came out great. Warning! When cleaning with a degreaser it will discolor your panels badly, but the new paint covers everything well.

It's a deal with free rust and no crakes! Now, to go find my rear.......

Here on the east coast, 2k is average price on an early ZX if fair to good shape. I don't see much room for making much on a flip at that price, at least around here, and they seem to sell v e r y slowly compared to the S30's. Just my 2 cents. Although, as Blue pointed out a while back, that lowering and widening the stance does improve the look quite a bit. Could be a fun mod project while not expecting too much in return.

I made a billet hold down like the MSA one out of Aluminum bar from the hardware store. It wasn't very difficult. Just cut to length, drill a hole, and cut a slot, then a bend. You can cut the wedges out of the sides if you want. Those are there to fit the old style batteries with the caps on top. Not needed if you have an optima. I don't have a photo but it is very similar, just not as shiny and no Z logo.

PM sent

I've got a filler tube from a 77'. I believe they are the same for a 77-78. I can take a picture if you are interested.

Didn't do anything with my Z but was privileged to get to hang with Zup and S30 driver, Jim1 and Jim2, with their gang, the NWAZCC. Great guys and gals. Wonderful people and beautiful cars! True southern hospitality at it's best!

I smell a bot.........@mike

Owning a Z will turn you into a mechanic. Very knowledgeable people here that have done it all and then some. You can start here http://www.classiczcars.com/files/ by downloading the Factory Service Manual for your 78. Learning how to repair your Z is invaluable and easier than an engine swap if you don't have the experience yet.

Well, that would be one way........ But simply figuring out your current engine would be more economical. Just my 2 cents.

+1 on the CLR soak. If you can't rescue that one, there is always the salvage yard search or maybe a CL find. Lots of ZX's out there for parts. That's probably your least expensive route. Another option is Arizona Z where you send your old one for core/rebuild. Not very cheap, but under 400. https://zcarsource.com/fuel-systems/gas-tanks-components/gas-tank-sending-unit

I've wondered why some sources say to match the light color with the lens but I can't justify it with anything I know other than if one has switched to a clear lens. The color of the lens itself defines what color the human eye will interpret so I believe white or warm LED's will be sufficient.