gwri8

I've met you in person Cliff. We need to talk about your choices of girlfriends. ?

Unfortunately, I don't see much of a difference between your new garage and my old shop so any advice I would offer would easily be refuted. ?

Just to confirm, from a 77'.

Installed my X-mas aftermarket power antenna. Power up, Power down and shiny to boot!

Looks like Zup is not limited to just plain ole' Z trophies anymore. ??

Yep, sorry about the false alarm. I thought I was reading Mark's thread and I had missed a whole bunch of stuff ?. All good now (he say's with a beer in hand).

Oops, sorry.

Hi @Wass and welcome to the forum. I'm not an admin or the owner of this thread but as a friendly suggestion it would be a good idea start your own new build thread. That way we can follow it better as this thread is really, really long and is heading towards completion (maybe, or probably, or who really knows? except @wheee!).

He's also a Diddler Extraordinaire! Ask me how I know...?

Nice catch! I'm thinking there will soon be a new Ultimate 510 reference guide in the near future.

Mr Prine

Sneaking? No. Just like the band doing the sound check, there was a full camera crew there checking their gear, angles and spots too. There's lot of good film of Stevie Ray and it wasn't by chance.

PM sent

That's what I did with 78' assembly. Reamed it with a drill just enough to fit the new hose and even then had to lube it like the navy was in port.

If you are talking about a replacement seat belt fixture I might have one. As far as a blanking plate, I would imagine you would have to make one or replace it with a switch of sorts to power something else.

My rear panels are nothing special. It's just a vinyl wrap over stock panels. It was hard to get right with all the complex curves on those but was realativly inexpensive . Now they are about 3 yrs old and I should probably re-do them. Vinyl is temporary and doesn't last so I try to do something else next time. The tail light trim pieces are painted bright silver with a clear coat. I agree with everything Patcon suggested. If you want more protection back there, that's what that the original bumper (often referred to as the park bench) was for.

The rear valance was rusted on mine when I was getting mine ready for paint. The guy doing the welding said it would be better to just replace it so I was kind of in the situation you are in. I really couldn't find a 77' valance in the time frame I was working in so opted for the readily available one from Banzai motor works. It came as a stamped piece of metal but it was flat and needed to be shaped into that curve that it has which added more time and effort, not to mention that the bumper bracket holes do not line up the 280 holes. None of those things were a deal breaker to me since I don't have a rear bumper although they are something to consider and compare too the time and cost of repairing what you've got.

Did you have a paint code sticker by the radiator to identify it with? The reason I ask is that according to my monitor (calibrated) your color looks closer to 110 red. Both colors were available on the 240. I know there are a ton of variables (camera being the 1st one) when viewing on line. https://zcarguide.com/datsun-240z-stock-paint-and-interior-colors-us-and-canada/

We've had this discussion before. I had an automotive paint store look up and match the 1977 Datsun paint code 240. The color they produced pretty much matched the original color in my engine bay. One could argue how exact it is especially since it is base and clear vs a single stage, but I'm pleased with it. The shot of the Z badge in my icon is before the new paint in the pic in my signature. I can say, however, this particular color can look very much different on a sunny day to a cloudy day as well as indoor and outdoor. I know in your mixes you played with the shade and the amount of flake.

Thankyou . It's a 2 stage repaint but with original paint code 240.

Unfortunately surfaces don't have to be flat to gather stuff in my shop. I tend to work with the "pile" theory of storage.......

Have you, by any chance, inspected the hazard switch itself? I don't know your cars maintenance history so it could just be a simple dirty 41 year old hazard switch or connection. I would suggest cleaning all of the electrical connections when you start to go through the wiring diagram to diagnose.

I checked my stash and I do have those parts sans compressor. I also have a vacuum bottle. PM me if you are interested.

I've got most of the things like magnet valves, idler pulley, mount and probably a Fast Idle Actuator a plus a few others but not a compressor. I'm headed out the door to the dentist right now but I can check when I get back.

I'm not familiar with that pump. What is it's pressure rating and why did you bypass the fuel dampener?