abas

24tzman/Carl/lonetreesteve It seems from previous posts maybe the only link to 1970 is the 2400ohc valve cover, from which the PO might have got his dating info from. As far as I know this 2400 valve cover will fit any head, any year, and so cannot help towards dating the age of the block ( Over here we would refer to it as a 'red herring' but I don't know whether that term is in use in the US).:classic:

Lonetreesteve This has me intrigued:classic:. I'll talk to a few people I know who might know the answer. regards Andrew

Now THAT'S commitment:classic:

Lonetreesteve Are you sure its not L24 6039 instead of 60039? That number would be consistent with an early/mid 70 240z regards Andrew

I have to avoid books like that as my credit cards run away and and hide.:classic:

How about fibreglass ones? But they probably wouldn't protect your car much, if you happened to have a bit of girlfriend trouble along the same lines as Proxlamus:classic: Or you could try eliminating the bumpers altogether!!! But I have to say I cringe whenever I see a z with no bumpers as I can see a small parking shunt at some point in the future turning into major body damage. Can't deny those bumpers saved you a lot more heartache, Proxlamus. regards Andrew

How do the police decide who gets to drive it? Or perhaps the head of police will commandeer it as his own official transport:classic:

Guys I've heard a variety of suggestions for those who want a working clock. 1) clean the internal mechanism thoroughly with thinner, and relube 2) replace with a later quartz clock. 3) for the real purist with money burning a hole in their pocket, there are some places that will replace the innards of the clock with a later quartz mechanism but keep the Jeco face so it looks like the earlier clock. On RHD cars you can get the clock out by taking the glove box out first, no need to remove the dash or heater panel. Hope it helps Andrew

Dave I must say you have me stumped there. It looks as you describe, a piece of jute attached to the vertical face behind the tool boxes, under the diamond vinyl, which my car did did not have ( at least, when I bought it, it didn't). I'm sure some of the other series 1 owners might be able to help, and hopefully they will chime in. regards Andrew

Thanks Dave I has looked at the rear deck jute and it appears to be the same material as the rest of the jute. Did you want me to measure the thickness? Are you still going to Japfest this Saturday? regards Andrew

Thanks for that Chris Does that mean non CA cars don't have the air pump and all the other intake bits that clutter up the engine bay so nicely on California cars? regards Andrew

Do the laws over there let you change the bumpers? Just my opinion but those huge bumpers don't help the look, and the early chrome ones look better.

I am however intrigued as to what differentiates a 'california' model hls30 car from the other hls30 cars ( as shown in the file technicalbulletintailpanel.jpg) Andrew

Dave I'd like to see the rubber flooring, I presume you are not bringing your 70 car to Japfest? I don't have a fiche to hand so I'm not sure which jute you mean. I think from what 26-thz has said it is the same as mine ( ie no jute). You have me intrigued however as to this extra piece of jute:classic: I have been going through my storage to get the rear deck jute and hopefully I will find it and get you the spec tonight. Andrew

Dave If you mean the vertical diamond vinyl behind the tool boxes, then no, there is no vertical jute at that point. The vinyl is just stuck to the vertical surface using contact adhesive or similar. regards Andrew

Tanny thanks for the picture regards Andrew

Kats comes up up with the goods yet again!!!! thanks for that. Looks like mine might be original after all.:classic: regards Andrew

I need to do my brake booster soon and I was intending to try and steam the decal off using steam from a domestic kettle. This has worked for me on a few other non-car items, without damaging the decals. Hope it helps Andrew

lonetreesteve Welcome to the club:classic: Hope we'll see more of you here as you progress with the restorations. From my (incomplete) knowledge I would say that an engine from a car made up to the end of 1970 should have a serial number up to about L24-024000. So L24 060039 is from a later car. I would guess around sept or Oct 1971 hope it helps

Kats/Anybody, do you have any information on when/what VIN the tail light trim changed. My April 1970 car does have the lids for replacing the bulbs, but I suspect it has been changed for a later one. thanks Andrew

I think Kats mentioned only his Jan 1970 manual has the editing. Maybe that means the March 1970 manual he has is the newer version, without editing. Strangely enough, Looking through the manual for my 1972 UK series 3 car, there is still one picture showing the hand throttle, when the car itself and all other pictures have the later style series 3 console which has no provision for a hand throttle.!!! Andrew

2-4-t-Z- man's cradle solution sounds like a winner. Tanny,any chance of some pictures of the cradle for reference?:classic: regards Andrew

thanks for that Chris It got mixed up with the docs from my 1972 car and so I didn't know whether it was series 1 or not. regards Andrew

My manual is the same as Mark's dated 15 Jan 1970. Mine is missing the extra piece of paper on page 44, but you can see the glue :classic: I wonder how many manuals Nissan had to edit with the strategically placed pieces of paper. I guess we'll probably never know. Andrew