rosaaen89

i’m not sure what brand the previous owner put in before i got it but it’s a cheaper one i’m sure. i put in a delphi one. i think i have the stock fuel filter so maybe i’ll reinstall that as well. before i put this pump in i could prime the system and get it to run and it would run/drive and idle as long as i wanted it to until i shut it off and let it sit. now i can’t get it to start up but i also replaces the fuel lines from tank to hard lines with 3/16 on the return side. before it had 1/4 or 5/16 would that make a difference at all?

thank you for the link that helps. i don’t have a car ramps but i’ll jack it up and throw some stands underneath. is there a way to clean it out somewhat quickly ? i heard people taking it to a car wash and pressure washing out is that enough ? i just don’t wanna order any products and don’t necessarily want to seal it if the previous owner did. i just want it cleaned out good if there’s some junk in there

yes the previous owner said that he had the tank sealed, exterior of the tank is coated in some black stuff. i don’t know how long ago it was done but i know he told me the car has been sitting for a year or more since it was sputtering the way it was. b

i did try that on the first fuel pump and it didn’t work but maybe it was because of the gas can i was using wasn’t full enough. i’m thinking of just dropping the tank and seeing if it’s clogged up. is it best to drain it first into a gas can or bucket ?

have you figured out the issue ? i’m having similar problem. if i prime the fuel system to get fuel in the filter it’ll run. once it sits the fuel drains out of the filter back to the tank and won’t start. i’ve replaced the pump twice and redid the fuel hoses and blew air threw the hard lines to ensure it’s all good. i’m thinking of dropping the tank to clean it out

well i put new fuel pump in and still nothing. can’t even get the system to prime now to start it at all like i was doing before . only other thing i can think of is maybe the tank. i’m frustrated

i’ll try and double check everything today when i install the new fuel pump as well. i’m hoping the fuel pump fixes my issue . i’ll keep you posted on everything. thank you for the help everyone

or do i adjust the float bowl a bit ? i’m still a little unsure on how to measure the float. do you measure from the bottom of the lid where the gasket sits until the metal tab is pressing up on the the jet?

they were probably both a bit below half i’d say about 35-40% full. would i just turn the adjustment knobs on both equally maybe 1/2-1 more turn? i’m currently waiting for new fuel pump i ordered should be in tomorrow. idk if the pump is bad but there was a decent amount of oil in the fuel pump when o pulled it off

both float bowls were equally filled. i changed out the rubber fuel line going from the tank to the hard lines with the correct size as well as the rubber return line in the engine bay. it’s still having the issue where it’ll run and drive and soon as i park after a few hours all the fuel will drain back out of the filter. i’m thinking maybe the new mechanical fuel pump is bad already?? i took it off and the gasket going between the fuel pump insulator/spacer and engine was all torn up and there was some oil coming in the fuel pump itself. could that be the issue ?

well i looked underneath the back by the tank and one line going from the tank to the hardline that runs to the engine bay is loose, old , hard and brittle. i’m going to replace that and see if maybe that’s why it kept doing that

it possibly is bent i’m probably gonna order new ones just to be safe. i think i fixed one issue sort of with the way it was running real rough. but the other one continues , so i primed it got it running good . turn the car off and the fuel that sits in the fuel filter slowly goes back down and once there’s none in the fuel filter it won’t start unless i prime it that way i was doing it. i hooked a hose straight from the fuel pump to a separate source of fuel and it still don’t start that way. could the pump itself be bad? the previous owner replaced it thinking that was the issue for it running rough right before i bought it less than a month ago. maybe installed it wrong if even possible. or could there be a leak in the line letting air in when it’s sitting and not running ?? i’m lost

the nozzles i set both at 2.5 turns. i’m guessing 1 turn = 360 degrees counter clockwise correct ? i didn’t check the float bowls yet to see where the fuel is currently at. the throttle return springs that were on there as well were different. but yes i think i should do the needles at least the one. is it necessary to have the choke cables hooked up ? sorry for all the questions but your help has vastly helped me with this

IMG_3983.MOV IMG_3984.MOV

i finished putting everything back together and installed new throttle return springs and the float bowl to carb hoses as well as the jets in the float bowl and it runs 10x’s better then it did. doesn’t sputter like it was and runs pretty good. it does seem like it’s running rich now but it’s night and day difference then it was.

when i took off the top of the float bowl i noticed one of the jets that is suppose to press up against the metal bracket on the float didn’t have any tension . so i ordered new ones with new float bowl gaskets since there wasn’t any of those on there either

i have that linkage connected back at the moment. does that linkage only move from the choke cables and that pulls the nozzles down? or does it move with the throttle linkage as well. when i move them by hand they both move up and down but if i extend the lever to far they stick but maybe they do at that point when the lever is overextended ?

i did order some new float bowl to carb lines and throttle return springs from them yesterday. when i was taking the dome off the rear carb it did stick a little and was a little harder to pull off . the front one came off with ease. i’m not sure if that means anything but when it was all tightened up the piston seemed to move fine . i’ll have to attempt to check the linkage. this might be a really dumb question but is the linkage that connects to the nozzle controlled by the choke?

cleaned them out the best i could removed the springs and drained the damper oil. did the drop test both virtually have no resistance and come down at fairly similar times both at 2 1/2 turns up and at the original 2 1/2 down

i also think that needle has been a partial cause to my issues. the front carb looked nice and clean as did the needle, the rear needle looks beat up and inside of the carb/exterior of the piston was black. Also inside the carb almost looks like the piston was coming down awkwardly and making harsher contact on its way down. when i did purchase the car and bring it home both of the carbs were low on damper oil and the rear carbs nozzle was sticking. At the time i had no idea what the part(nozzle) i pushed back up into the carb was. first time working on these, but i’m starting to learn a little bit.

if i use pb blaster to lube the exterior of the pistons is that bad ? i cleaned everything with gumout carb cleaner first hand. i cleaned the nozzles as well. i’ll try it all tonight when i get home from work.

so late last night i took the pistons off the carbs and the front one looked good but the rear was all black and inside looked like there were scratches or indents. thinking the needle might be causing issues ? first needle is the front carb others are of the rear

i’ll try to run the baby bottle of fuel right before the pump to see what happens and let you guys know what happens. if the line is stopped up is the only way to get around that just replacing the hard lines that run from the tank to the engine bay or is there some way to get them cleaned out

awesome i’ll get that done as well and check for any crud in the tank