Johnny wick

Have not received any response regarding the installation of the pertronix 3.0 ohms coil. I am posting this because i have seen so many different opinions on connecting the coils with or without the ballast resistor. THe coil seems weak and before purchasing another pertronix coil i would like to know if i should settle for the 1.5 ohms coil or 3.0 ohms. Anyone???

Where can i get a 280z fan shroud?

I have it wired this way with a 3.0 Pertronix Coil and Ignitor in my 240z. Still waiting for someone in the fórum to tell me if it is wired wrong or not. I am having low spark and rough idle problems at traffic jams.

I have a Pertronix Flamethrower coil installed in my car (3.0 ohms) which is connected through the ballast coil. However, i have read in this fórum that if you have a 3.0 0hms you should not use the ballast resistor. Is this correct? the car cranks up fine but idles rough in traffic jams. If i leave it idling at the parking for more than 10 mins, rpm starts to drop from 1,000 to 800 to 600 RPM. Same happens in traffic jams. Could the coil be damaged? or is it wired wrongly? I have attached a photo and hope someone with electrical knowledge can give me his input! Could the ballast resistor be damaged? I need to decide what to do? Anyone????? Please see picture of how it is wired.

Yes i need to clear this out!! I dont know why the former owner had installed it this way! The car does crank up fast! the problem is the idle! It has a rough idle which gets worse at traffic jams.

Problem was solved! Valves were badly adjusted! Ones even were adjusted to .014. The mechanic also found out the coil is getting very hot and the spark coming out to the spark plugs is very weak! I have a 3.0 Ohms flamethrower coil connected through a ballast resistor. The car does start up immediately. Could the Ballast Resistor or the coil be possibly damaged? If i decide to replace it should i go for a 1.5 ohm flamethrower Coil or is it better an MSD?

I want to get rid of the back and forth hesitation under 3000 RPM. It even happens after i pass a Street bump, where i need to slow down and shift to first again.

Just did a compression test on the cylinders and a fuel pressure test. THe compression test drew the following results: Cylinder 1 : 180 PSI Cylinder 2: 180 PSI Cylinder 3: 185 PSI Cylinder 4; 180 PSI Cylinder 5: 180 PSI Cylinder 6: 175 PSI The fuel pressure was 3 PSI. I am running A Carter P60504 Electric Fuel Pump. Is this pressure enough for both carbs? http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p60504/overview/ I have both carbs set to 3.5 turns and i am still having a back and forth motion after stepping on the gas and releasing the pedal before reaching 3000 RPM.

Well Zed Head, I guess you were right. My mechanic has the same opinión as yours, he found the valve too tights and even though he manage to set them at 0.9 and .10, the car is still presenting the back and forth hesitation under 3000 rpm. If you pull the spark plug boot on cylinder 3 the idle does not drop down in comparison to the other cylinders. He believe some valves could be burned. He recommended to purchase the following: 12 valves valve guides valve seats and a gasket that goes underneath. I have both of the idle mixture knobs set to 3.5 turns.I took a picture of the 6 spark plugs (BP6ES) Factory gap at .028 once i came back home starting from cylinder 6, left to right. Please give me your input, if i should settle his opinión and where should i purchase good quality valves, valve guides, and valve seats.

Is this wired correctly? My car is working though!! Just want to be sure!

Sorry but what do you mean by plugging all the vacuum lines? Plug them with what?

Problem came back even with new NGK BP6ES spark plugs and 4 turns clockwise on both of the SU Carbs idle mixture knobs. The Factory gap of the BP6ES is .028 mm.

my 1972 240z has a pertronix ignitor system and 3.0 flamethrower coil are connected through the Ballast Resistor. I dont see any problem connecting it through the ballast resistor as other people have advised. How do i find out if this coil is working perfectly or if its weak?

How do i verify if my coil is not weak???

which one? Petronix I or II Ignition coil? Is there any difference between both?

I want a pair! How much?

I am considering in replacing the Ignitor Coil that the former owner of my 72 240z had installed. I believe the coil is somelike weak. Anyone has installed Ignitor II Flamethrower coil? Any experience? I read it delivers 45,000 Volts. This is the one i have currently installed in my vehicle: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4020

Madkaw, the only way to check for vacuum leak is spraying carb cleaner? Maybe there could be a leak under the car from the manifold or the exhaust? Please confirm

Madkaw, I have the front carb set at 3.5 turns and the rear 3.25 turns. Still hesitation when releasing clutch and engaging first gear. Either i step smoothly on the pedal or step hard, otherwise hesitation begins. is this normal???? Another problem i still have is the idle. If i leave the car in the parkway at idle for more than 10 minutes, it drops to 700 and rises back to 1000.

John, Same problem! Here is picture of the spark plugs and the distributor! I have no backfire in the front intake. I have the front carb set at 3.5 turns and the rear 3.25 turns. Still hesitation when releasing clutch and engaging first gear. Either i step smoothly on the pedal or step hard, otherwise hesitation begins. Another problem i still have is the idle. If i leave the car in the parkway at idle for more than 10 minutes, it drops to 700 and rises back to 1000. What a hassle!!! Hope someone here can point me out in the right direction.

Okay with the valve rechecked and adjusted and the timing done, the car runs better. No backfire, just slight back and forth hesitation when running the car at the moment of releasing the clutch and engaging 1st gear. To avoid this either you step softly in the gas pedal or Hard. My uncle who has dealt with carbs before says it could be the float level in the carbs. Problem number to is the idle. If i leave the car parked in idle for more than 10 minutes rpm starts to drop from 1050 to 700 and goes up again. The engine does not shut down.

He is checking the valves today with a feeler gauge! I will keep all of you posted!

What about the timing? how many degrees with this cam?

your recommendations do not answer my question regarding valve clearences!

Got an old school mechanic who came to my house today and inspect the car. After lifting the valve cover, He found out that the engine valves were too tight and will need to adjust them all. He did not brought his feeler gauge and will need to take care of that on monday. He is quoting me US$100 for the following: 1. Valve adjustments which according to my Schneider 274F cam should be set to 0.8 and 0.10. Am i correct? 2. Timing Chain and distributor adjustment. He also noted the car is leaving black residues out of the muffler due to the bad valve adjustment. Is there any additional recommendation i can give him before he starts to adjust the valves? The shop that installed the cam has followed all the steps mentioned in the Hayes Manual and adjusted the timing to 10 degrees. Maybe here is my problem and after all this adjustements are concluded, there will be no more hesitation in 1st gear and backfiring,enabling me to adjust the carbs to 2.5 turns. Any opinions?