Johnny wick

I have explained the problem in a very precise way and with all the facts. Hope someone comes with a solution that does not involve opening the float bowls or leaning the mixture more!

Well i guess i am not explaining my self clear enough. Lets see: Crank the engine at the garage, if it does not crank immediately i need to pull the choke for at least 1 minute. After that i push it back. Temperature needle is at 0, drive the car from the parkway until i head myself to the streets. At the streets, i can drive around nice until i get to a couple of traffic jams, lights and after 15 mins of driving temperature reaches to a Little less than 3/4 in the temp gauge. Idle becomes rough lowering from 1000 RPM to 500 or to 400 sometimes and rises back. Eventually car stalls and i have to crank it again. Its a real uncomfortable situation as i only remain with the possibility of driving the car on sundays when there are few cars and no traffic jams. I bought this car 2 years ago and have already replaced the following parts: 1. Pertronix ignitor 1761 and Pertronix Coil 40511 (3 ohms) bypassing the resistor. 2. Far 311 Race cam was replaced with Schneider 274F camshaft, with springs, lashpads and rocker arms. The car has a New Datsun L24 motor with crank and rods from a L26, special oversized 84mm flat top black coated pistons from D.L. Potter Engineering with E88 Head (This was done by Datsun LLC to the Previous Owner). 3. Water pump 4. Fully refurbished SU Carburetors by Ztherapy (US$650.00) 5. Fan clutch 6. 170 degree Farenheit Thermostat. 7. Airtex 8012S electric fuel pump (4psi) 8. New NGK Blue Spark Plug Cables. 9. NGK BP6ES Spark Plug. 10. MSA Fiberglass Fan Shroud I guess the former owner new about this issue and decided to sell the car. With all the money i have spent including labour i could have bought 3 new engines. Unfortunately, mechanics here in Panama have few or scarce knowledge on this vehicle and hence i am looking forward to hire a US Datsun experienced mechanic that can assist me on setting up this car properly.

Okay i can remove the air filter housing, air filter and set the ilde mixture knobs lowering them to 2.5 turns clockwise following the procedure found in the ztherapy video. I will download the FSM but believe me this will only cause backfire at the intake and loss of power. Ztherapy warned me of not opening the float valves and if i do i do not have the gasket replacement and will need to order some before attempting this. 3 turns down still backfires at intake. Does a leak down test is the equivalent to a compression test? I try attempting the vacuum leak test connecting the hose to the brake booster but the needle in the vacuum tester does not even move! Maybe im attempting this in a wrong way.

Flush was done. The problem is not the radiator!! Mechanic says Radiator is perfect no need to fix or change (Charge 3 dollars for inspection). It could be either the manifold heat control thermostat or something else. When returning from the Radiator Shop the car temperature reached to a Little less than 3/4 of the gauge (I installed a Brand new OEM NISSAN 170° F thermostat before turning the engine on). The idle became rough and the car stalled a couple of times during traffic. Got home pulled all the plugs out and the were black. I guess the car overheats and this causes the plugs to become black which eventually turns the idle rough concluding with stalling. I can lower the mixture and set the timing to 10BTDC at idle but this will cause backfire at the intake and loose of power. Should i do leak down test? A vacuum test? or should i wait until i receive the manifold heat control thermostat and install it? Guessing is not solving anything.

Car overheats and stalls at traffic jams and intersection but not while parked under shade!!

Namerow, One friend of mine has an additional Manifold Heat Control Thermostat which he confirms its working. So i will have the radiator flushed and fully inspected, swap this thermostat and test the car. I will not get into removing the freeze plugs in the engine block until this is completely verified. I will also have a vaccuum test done to the car.

In conclusión do i remove the Manifold heat thermostat or purchase one from you guys to replace the probably shut device? Temperature in Panama is 33 degrees Celsius all year round.

Sorry i meant Clockwise until they are tight, and then 4 turns counterclockwise the front carb and 3.25 turns counter clockwise the rear carb (loosen or lowering the jet. I have a vacuum gauge at home. You will only need to tell how and to which port i must connect it to measure the vacuum. 2 hoses coming from firewall are used by the sanden 508 compressor. Coolant route has been rerouted. Anyway, if i dont manage to find a Manifold Heat Control Thermostat can i simply remove it or it can be fixed if it is shut???

OK. I have already checked my mixtures and have set the front carb to 4 turns clockwise and the rear car to 3.25 turns clockwise. My starting point was 2.5 each carb as the DVD shows but at that point the fuel mixture was too lean. Anyway, i took the car for a ride and drove it approximately 20 minutes stopping at intersections and several traffic lights, trying to keep the temperature needle under half. Car is running with no thermostat on. Anyway, once it passes half the idle becomes rough and it tends to stall which is not pleasing at all. The problem is not the carbs believe! Have set the BTDC to 11 although i am planning to increase it to 13 to see if the car has more power at 1st gear. when i came back i took the plugs out and they all showed as attached. I also took some pictures of the manifold heat control thermostat, carb shields and other parts so you can guide me better on the solution. Formerly i had the original heater installed, nowadays i manage to install an ac system from vintage air and bypassed those heater lines. im about to ditch that radiator and remove the freeze plugs as any passages could be blocked.

I contacted them and they told me not to open the float chambers!!

I did not have time to take the car to the radiator shop today. So i guess i am only left with the option of leaning both carbs a Little bit to see if the rough idle and stalling can be eliminated. Front carb is at 4 turns and rear carb at 3.25 turns. If i lower both of them to 2.5 turns they will get a lean mixture and you will start hearing intake backfire.

Thermostat was removed yesterday!! Car is running with no Thermostat! Just ordered a 170 degrees farentheit thermostat OEM Nissan.

Light came on again!!! I think there is no other solution than to get a NOS Assembly somewhere? Anyone has a different approach or solution to solve this? I also noticed that when i actívate one of the turn signals either to the left of right, it also blinks a Little bit!

Anyway i am taking the car to the radiator shop tomorrow for a complete flush and repair if needed. If this does not solve the problem, i will lean both carbs a Little bit to see if the rough idle and stalling issue is solved. If not then i will need to do a complete cleaning of the wáter passages. What kind of products are needed to do a flush and cleaning of the wáter passages?

Mechanic came yesterday. We tested the car!! No backfire either on intake or exhaust. Car ran fine. When parking the car after waiting 15 minutes at idle, RPM started to drop from 1000 to 800 and raised again. We even took the thermostat out, He ruled that the problem was the radiator and i needed to take the car to a rad shop for flushing and cleaning. If this did not solve the problem, he will need to remove both lids shown on picture 2 and do a complete cleaning removing any rust inside the wáter channels. By the way who sells these lids? How are they called? Anyone here has a different approach to the solution he has offered?

I moved the fuel lines further back so it does not make any contact with the linkage!

while running the car the temperature gauge needle sits in the middle. Once stuck in traffic or at a parking it starts moving to 3/4.

The timing was set in the middle at 10BTDC. I have the vaccum advance connect to a ported source in the front carb. The carbs are adjusted properly.

They dont use the car in traffic conditions. I dont have rough idle issues or stalling while running the car. it only happens when you are stuck in traffic and it starts with a drop down from 1000 RPM to 500 and raises back to 1000. After minutes from that the car idles gets more rough and unstable and suddenly it shuts down. Plugs start to get black and acceleration gets difficult. This car is supposed to be used under normal heavy traffic conditions. What other pictures would you like me to get for you?

Problem is not rust in tank! just replaced the fuel filter with another glass fuel filter and i see no brownish deposits. I am more inclined to the following: Damaged Radiator or vacuum leak somewhere. However if Datsun LLC does not have good reputation on overhauling engines properly, i might have to tear down the engine. Unfortunately mechanics in Panama only know how to tighten and untighten bolts and screws. Nothing else.

It had a Far 311 Race Cam when i bought it thus causing rough idle and the temperature always inscreased to 3/4 as per the picture attached. I replaced this cam with a Schneider 274F, lashpads, springs, and Nissan OEM Rocker Arms. I also sent both of my SU Carbs to Ztherapy for full rebuilt. How come i am still having this rough idle and stalling issue. Datsun LLC rebuilt the engine and was purchased by PO through EBAY.

The Rough Idle and stalling issue is attributed to ???????? We have changed almost everything: Fan clutch, wáter pump, pertronix ignition, spark plugs (NGK BP6ES), spark plug Cables (Blue NGK), gaskets, Rough Idle and stalling only happens when car reaches to very hot temperature when at idle and not moving. I even have the MSA Fan Shroud installed.

Okay i bought a heat gun and point it directly to the radiator and the thermostat also. When the car is at 3/4 it is Reading 185 degrees Farentheit! Should i consider removing the thermostat and running the car without the thermostat to see if the problem continues. I have not found the invoice of the Champion 3 row radiator. Could any of the rows be damaged also and not letting the coolant and wáter run through the engine properly? I took the car to a Radiator shop and the owner told me that before i deliver the radiator to him for flushing and fixing, i need to test the car with no thermostat! Which radiator upgrade would you recommend for this car in the event one of the rows is blocked: Mishimoto 3 row: http://www.tdamotorsports.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=316 or Champion 4 row: http://www.championradiators.com/Datsun-240z-radiator-4-row-1970-1973 Thanks for your great help!!

I even e-mailed Datsun LLC regarding the history of this engine and they replied telling me they dont store information of the rebuilt engines. Anyway, if i am gonna remove the engine for cleaning the crud and sediment build up in the wáter passages, i need to know what gaskets will i need to purchase to do this properly. Anyone???

Mark, Thanks for the advice. The car does run nice at 10BTDC even though it has a Schneider 274F Cam which i was recommended to set to 12BTDC. I dont think the difference will help the engine run cooler. I have an AC installed so no heater control or Factory blower to depend on. How much shall i pay for a machinist to clean the crud build up and what kit or parts shall i order if he will need to carry out this task. Will i need to purchase a Brand new Champion 4 row radiator also?