Johnny wick

Do you really need to purchase this brush kit to clean all the female light sockets on your 240z? https://www.amazon.com/IPA-8086-Light-Socket-Brush/dp/B00KHC651Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1514492241&sr=8-2&keywords=brush+bulb+socket or could you use a dremel that has a bronze brush?

yes your PLH kit is awesome. I will still want the front left hand parking lamp to light up with the same intensity as the other ones. Maybe there is some ground issue there.

problem fixed. it was a 15 amp fuse on Dave´s Parking light harness. Wondering how would you clean all the female sockets on each and every lamp of the car? Sandpaper or contact cleaner?

i blocked that inline manifold stuff. too much heat for the carbs.

Recently after tuning both of my carbs on my 1972 240z, which carries both of Dave´s headlight and dashboard light upgrades, all out of the sudden the dashboard / instrument lights, front and rear parking light and tail lights went out. I already checked the tail lights and the fuse box and the bulbs and fuses are ok. Where else shall i check before taking the steering column cover and checking the combo switch? The only thing that works are the headlights.

Do we really need this part on warm tropical weather?

All of a sudden my tail lights, dash lights and front and rear left and right parking lights do not light up. The head lights do work. Already checked the fuse box and the instrument / dome light and the rest of fuses are good. Where do i check next? All bulbs on the tail lights are fine. Where else shall i check? I have both of daves upgrade circuits installed.

Thanks Patcon

So bottomline my car is not used for any racing purpose. I do speed it everytime i can at the highway and just want a firm and precise stop without getting into a conversión that is not needed. Based on my needs which most of all concern safety in the event that some crazy driver shows up and i need to stop the car immediately. Any better brake pads, hoses or drum shoes i should consider?

Should i only buy this A/F Meter or is there a kit that comes with other accesories which are needed? At the moment i only use a synchometer and colortune gunson to adjust my carbs: https://www.amazon.com/Latest-Rage-Deluxe-Carburetor-Airflow/dp/B00CMC57R0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1/143-7727567-6037105?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7E5HJJ0TY1ZKGRG0YN3V https://www.amazon.com/Colortune-for-14mm-Spark-Plug/dp/B000E9VGNM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1513270323&sr=1-1&keywords=colortune Is this really accurate?

I only use this car on weekends to cruise but would like to have a better response during braking. Would you still recommend doing the brake drum conversion at the rear or would it be greatly improved by just having better brake pads?

Isnt there any bolt on no modification rear disc brake conversion for my 1972 240z?

I have only the stock exhaust single tip

Is this one fine or should i get a better one more accurate?

The car needs to be tested at heavy stop and go traffic. The floats were set at the correct level. No overflowing

I guees if the emission system was removed, everything related must be dumped. If there is no advantage on the car performance either at idle during traffic or while speeding above 3000 rpm there is no point on staying with that system

PO removed the smog pump. I am still searching the cause of vacuum leak. This car must be able to handle toughest traffic jam without stalling and avoiding the plugs getting filled with carbon.

2.75 clockwise

While taking my manifold for resurfacing and replacing new bolts and screws, i discover 6 metal tubes from the former air galley that were about to fall inside. Will i need these tubes further or should i dump them? Any advantages on installing the emission parts back?

Already sprayed carb cleaner and swapped the original brake booster a year ago. Never noticed any leak.

Yes it just had a little of idling time at the garage and short traffic lights. I read in another forum that i could have a vacuum leak somewhere and that it be causing the plugs to foul sooty black at idle. Do you concur?

2.75 turns clockwise front and rear carb

How do you avoid this? Trial and error?

Is it normal for plugs to get sooty black during long idle traffic time?

Yes i know but if i go too rich i would then have a problem when the car is as idle as the plugs start the foul getting sooty black which causes the car to hesitate under traffic situations with a tendency to stall. I am using a cheap automatic transmission fluid for my su carbs. My problem is always at idle.