Johnny wick

When you say push the choke knob do you mean pull the lever 1 cm back and the tighten the 2 screws of each carb?

Both of these carbs were remanufactured in 2014 by Ztherapy. Fuel nozzles go all the way up once i close or reset the choke cable. Now i did noticed that i have to pull the choke to 3/4 for the fuel nozzle to move down. Which of the choke screws do i need to release so i can shorten that big slack? How do i get this done without depending on a 3rd party moving the choke lever?

Yes they are fully pushed up!

There are 2 screws that hold the choke cable at both carbs one on the bottom and on the top. Can you expand a little bit more on this. I just want to eliminate all possible causes for my plug getting fouled.

Ok. Let me unscrew and start pulling both cables until i see some movement before i fasten them. I think ill need a helper to pull the lever.

Any video tutorial?

If i reduce the slack too much when i pull/ open the choke i will be reaching to 2500 rpm instead of 1400 rpms.

You mean removing unsrewing both screws until the cables start to pull? Will this help in someway?

Yes all this was sorted out. No yellow light showing if the choke is off. Just want to know how much slack is recommended. If i pull the choke lever all the way up it starts pulling the nozzle down once the lever reaches 3/4 of the way.

Well i did notice there is some slight slack before the choke cables start pulling the fuel jets. Any videos or instructions on how to adjust both choke cables precisely? Really wann get this done today saturday.

Thanks for your advice. Any chance i can drive the car without the air filter installed? I like to test the car to be sure the choke is not getting stuck when its returned to the off position. Will i risk damaging the carbs or engine parts driving it without the air filter only to troubleshoot?

Just removed the air filter assembly. Should i loosen the screws and remove choke cables completely?

Should i check the choke cables?

Yes

Well guys this problem got worst. Now all spark plugs are black. Heavy hesitation when accelerating and lots of misfiring. Cant stand this problem any longer. Posting a pic of all 6 spark plugs 6 5 3 4 3 2 1

So how do i get access to the clock if the led burns up?

Well this was my approach to replacing the original cardboard and fabricating a glovebox. My only concern is how ro remove the clock gauge if the led burns and i need to replace it. Also if i need to remove or service the ac evaporator it will be difficult as the back panel is glued with silicone.

Pump is good. i mistakenly removed the Dome fuse from the circuit and it cease to work. Only 2 remaining matters to be solved: 1. The high beam blue led light in the speedometer. 2. The correct position i have to place the t/s switch so it engages both horns when i press horn pad.

How do i get into that small hole from behind? Its really stretch for someone like me that is 6 feet tall.

This is the type of led that goes in there!

Tks Patcon. Now i need to fix the blue hi beam light and determine the exact position of the ts switch so the horns make contact precisely.

whats the easiest way to get inside that speedometer and change that blue led?

Water pump is fine. I had removed the dome light fuse and thats it didnt work. Now its back in commission.

Id like to source a good wiper water pump for my 72 240z. Something that fits correctly and has gas enough power to spray the windshield. This is the one i have and is currently shot. Im also attaching a picture of the one i found on the web.