Johnny wick

Last night the dashboard instrument lights, parking lights and tail lights on my 72 240z shut down when i turned the combo switch on. I noticed that the 15 amp fuse inside the fuse holder provided by Dave Irwin Parking light harness kit went south. Replaced it with another 15 amp and even a 20 amp fuse dashboard lights, tail lights and parking lights came in for 2 seconds and the fuse went out again. I believe the problem resides in the harness upgrade. Last time this happened i removed it from the circuit and connected the stock female and male 6 wire connectors together and all the lights came back. Could there be an issue with the relays provided in the kit? Should i just check the parking light bulbs first and clean for any corrosión before removing the steering colummn cover and making the straight stock connection again?

Im having this same problem. My car has dave irwin parking light upgrade harness which keeps blowing the 15 amp fuse foun inside the fuse holder of the circuit. Should i take the harness out from the equation to eliminate the combo switch could be faulty or should i check all the parking bulbs first?

What about long idling bumper to bumper? Shouldnt these car stand these situations?

Heavy stop and go traffic 5 minutes per stop light

Havent tested at idle yet.

Result of plugs in order 1 2 3 4 5 6 stepping on the gas at 100 mph after changing brand new ngk blue spark plug wires and bosch rotor and cap.

I changed rotor, cap and now spark plug wires (NGK Blue). Will test the car tomorrow morning.

I need to get one of this. FIrst picture. Are they still NLA?

Will install new wires today

Anyway of buying this part period?

No

Mark i did tried the timing gun test and it only reads the timing marks when fastened to spark plug cable 1 and 6.

Just receive a new set of NGK spark plug cables. Let me try them.

Should i first attempt on bleeding the brakes and then see if the light goes off?

Maybe i should try bleeding the brakes first

Yes i guess its better not to mess with it. I was thinking of removing that hex nut and cleaning the innards but it i need to pull all the proportionate valve out from the car hen its risky business.

Ill check on that. I did noticed that when i started driving the car the light randomly dissapeared but came back again when i parked the car. Really weird. Mean i can live with it but it should go off all the way.

Hi, Just tested with black probe on negative battery terminal and the other on the bullet male connector. No beep meaning no continuity. However if i place the red probe on the bottom of the nut of the connector it does beep which means there is continuity.

Well, this morninh i took my multimeter out and dial it to the continuity position. Placed red probe on the male bullet connector of the switch and the black one to the part that i circled in red. There was no beep which means that there is no continuity. What could be wrong here if i already cleaned the female and male connector with a brass wire brush?

Thats done already.

Waiting for them

Would swapping to bp5es which is hotter plug solve the fouling issue at idle?

I need to solve my black fouling at idle issue first before getting into this kind of stuff. I was thinking if using ngk bp5es plugs which are hotter will avoid the fouling at idle.

Im ordering a new set NGK blue wires from amazon. Hope it solves my fouling at idle problems.

I have never either the tachometer or the speedometer from the dash to restore them.