Mark Maras

@jalexquijano I agree with Patcon. Put some miles on it. At this point in time, don't go looking for problems. Should small problems arise, we'll deal with them at that time. Sounds to me like the carbs are finally close to optimum setting. Congratulations. You not only got it running good but you've learned a lot about SU's too. I like WIN - WIN situations. Now go drive it and tell us how much fun it is.

@jalexquijano The plugs still don't have much color but that could be caused from the gasoline in Panama. "They" tell me that the gas formula now is not the same as "the good old days". How well does the engine run when cold, warming up and at speed? Any complaints?

Thinking about this, I keep going back to a new(ish) battery that drops to 4 volts and THEN takes three days to charge. I'd have thought it would have failed the load test. I'd try another battery known to be good or jumper cables from another battery to see if the relay is still necessary. What did you mean when you said "When the car does turn over the starter is still turning over for a couple of seconds"? Do you mean the starter keeps running for a couple of seconds after the engine starts?

There was a change in the choke cable routing in the early years. I don't remember if the early routing was on the right or left side of the firewall. As I recall there was also a slight difference in the cable length too. There should be a hole there either on the left or right side.

@jalexquijano That's what we're trying to discover. Four turns down would be wrong for a stock engine. We're trying to get a little more color (tan) on the plugs. Drop the nozzles another 1/2 - 1 turn (your choice) and take another pic of the plugs after you've warmed it up and taken it for a test run.

Unsafe at any speed. A definite contender for WORST OF SHOW.

Glad to hear it's running better. Can you confirm that it was driven for a while with the choke off after it warmed up. I agree with Philip. Leave the floats alone and drop the nozzles 1 turn. More pics of the plugs after you readjust.

At least the windshield will prevent him from high siding over the handle bars. Stupid design. He'd have been better off leaving the front end alone and driving it with a single rear wheel. Wait, what am I saying. It's a terrible thing to do to a Z. Off to the pillory with him.

Thanks. Jai will have to decide. I'm not sure what the early 76 bumper looked like.

You can also use zinc rich primer instead of weld through primer. I've used it for years and had no problems welding through it. Plus, with the zinc, you get the protection from rust.

Thanks for asking. The search continues.

@Redwing Bumper pieces?

Honestly, if I was going to do it, I'd rinse the tank with lacquer thinner first, allow the lacquer thinner to totally evaporate and then use dry ice.

Dry Ice is the answer. At my previous job they removed our underground gas tanks. After pumping out residual fuel they dug around with a track hoe, pulled them to the surface and started dumping dry ice into the access holes . Probably about 20 Gals. of dry ice in each tank. The crew waited until there was CO2 vapor coming from the hole in the top of the tank. Then, to my total surprise, one of the crew stepped up to the end of the tank with an oxy-acetylene torch and started cutting up the tank into manageable pieces. As I peeked around the end of the building I was shocked that there was no explosion. Later on I talked to the crew. They said they've never had a problem using dry ice.

That was the way it was in Portland too. You could have your choice of manual or automatic transmission. That was the extent of ones options. After taking possession of a Z and driving it, the color didn't really matter as much as one thought it would. EVERYONE still wanted one regardless of the color.

Back then some of us got hooked on Z's before we even drove one. To that end, we did whatever had to be done to get one ASAP. I payed 73 sticker price for a used 71 in 73. One of the best decisions I ever made.

@Redwing Is that the bumper end you need? I believe it's a 76 but I'm not sure.

Wood cribbing is still the go to method for supporting large items. Working under a ship on dry dock that is supported by wood cribbing will make one a believer. Yeah, they still support them that way.

The lack of Pacific Northwest moss around the windows indicates that this one has been stored inside..

Ditto on the NW rust. It's can be very selective. I saw a 70 a few years ago that had a left rear quarter that had a 24" x 1 1/2" hole above the wheel arch and yet all the usual rust spots were pristine. In the NW, that would indicate that the car was under a carport with the left side exposed to the wind and rain.

The description implies that they don't stay on and he doesn't want to be liable for the hubcaps striking other vehicles or they're not for human consumption. Hubcaps on an off-road? Z?

@jalexquijano OK, now that I've primed my brain with coffee it's started functioning. After installing new plugs and using DeOxit did you start it without the choke? I'd like to hear about your start-up and warm-up procedure on this trial.

Welcome to the world of "I wish I know what the hell I did to fix it." That's why I like to change one thing and then test. I had to learn it the hard way too. Congratulations. Drive it and let us know how it's doing after a few days so we can start the celebration.

Of course it looks that way. With the choke on the fuel mixture is mega-rich. The reason I want you to put in new plugs and start it with NO CHOKE is I suspect that you're using too much choke and fouling the plugs before you ever get on the road. Yes the engine will lack power while it's warming up. Just baby the throttle and keep it running (with no choke) until it's warmed up, then take it for a drive.

You'll find out WHY when you change them.