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I forgot to mention that if there are aftermarket reproductions available for an item you want to establish a value for, you will want to consider that. An aftermarket fender for the Z exists for $250 plus shipping. Though, from the description, it is obviously not the same quality as OEM.

Nice to have all that space so you can add whole cars! I bought a few parts from a guy in Midlothian VA in the early 90's who bought unwanted 240z's and put all of the parts in his basement. I even contacted him and co-bought a right hand drive Fairlady Z when I was knee deep in the rebuild of my first 240z. He had a pickup with an engine crane mounted in the bed. Several hours of work and he had picked that car clean. Doing this in the 90's, I wonder how much inventory he stashed away. Lost touch with him and saw he died several years ago. Wonder what happened with the parts. Do you have any nice, original carpet jute pieces?

Yeah - I would love to see pics of them too! Regarding determining the value of parts, I'll offer up the following that may help: On eBay, you can search and see completed listings. And eBay keeps the completed listings on the site for quite some time, so there is a decent span of time to look through. To get to them, click on advanced on the top right here (I highlighted yellow): On the next screen, click the check box for "completed listings": Then, if you haven't put in search words up above, do so and click the search button. Scan the results for results that ended with items sold as opposed to just expired. No NOS 240z fenders there, but this can be helpful to get some transaction data points between buyers and sellers which are recent for many items. eBay has hefty fees for the seller. So, you may want to keep in mind that the final sale price is not what the seller gets. I sold a NOS dashboard a year or so ago on eBay for around $1400 US. The fees to eBay were something like 14%. Ridiculous. So, I avoid selling anything on eBay if I can. Also, shipping can be very expensive unless you get a discount through a business (like your workplace) that gets good rates. That shipping cost, almost always paid for by the buyer, is included in the buyers valuation. So, if something has a market value of $1000, but costs $500 to ship, then that buyer is not likely to spend more than $500 for the item regardless of the $1000 value. A buyer that can pick it up without shipping, on the other hand will likely pay the $1000 value.

I'll send you a pm!

Oh! Can I have them?

What month of manufacture is your 1971 Z?

Thanks for letting us know. Craigslist functionality is geographic/regional by default, so it can be hard for buyers outside your area to find the info. Do you ship, or do you find that you can find enough buyers in your region? Here is a tip for searchers if they have time and patience. It works to look at listings on Craigslist in more than one's own geo area using the special Google search command "site:" put your search words first, then a space, then "site:craigslist.org" like this: The special site: search works for any site. I use it to find stuff on Amazon without looking through all the garbage they want to push (their search results are awful). I also use it for searching this site. For example, try "original carpets site:classiczcars.com". Do not include the www. or https or whatever is in front.

I think there must be too much "friction in the process", meaning providing information about what exists to be sold by the seller, and an any easy way for the buyer to find what one needs without wasting time viewing items not needed, etc. eBay, forums, craigslist, Facebook, etc. are where people are spending time looking. But, each is lacking. Also, a lack of motivation/desire/initiative is an issue preventing selling/buying. Can I hit you up with a PM of my current list of stuff I am after?

Thanks for the head's up. I placed an order.

If I am honest, one of the reasons I started this thread is that I know there are people here who have lots of spares, but the classifieds section doesn't get much attention. Perhaps the classifieds section is too cumbersome to use. There are certainly parts in the hands of members here that will never make their way back into cars and that is a shame. So everyone, please consider this an opportunity to tell the other members that you have parts that you would be willing to let go of. Your post could just be - "I have some parts I'd be willing to let go of". Or, you could include a description and pictures. Hell, if you need help creating a listing for the classifieds, let me know. I'll help and see how that goes. Help prevent liquidation of your Z stuff at an estate auction (or from being thrown in the garbage) after you are dead. And, if you don't want to sell stuff, but just want to share cool parts in your possession, then please do! And please provide pics! I recently scored on eBay by buying a NOS lock that came with these:

Thanks for the compliment! I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Driving my P car can be a bit nerve racking. I may find that driving this car will feel very much the same. I mean... the hours I have in the body work now are quite outrageous. But, I can't stop my quest for the best I can do. And I also can't avoid driving my cars. So, this car will see spirited driving indeed.

Is the embossing on the vinyl by Distinctive Industries as deep/defined as the original? I have the sense from pictures that it is not. But I haven't compared them in person.

I appreciate the compliment - thank you! It's been a while since I provided an update, but I have been working hard on body work, trying to finish it up. I actually have been redoing some body work that I was not happy with. For example, I realized I was not going to be happy with the right front fender. I got it as good as I could, and then realized that the rear edge of the wheel opening was pushed in a little. You can see it here: The fender was hit in this area, and when I worked to straighten it, I did not realize that this corner was still pushed in some. I spent hundreds of hours most likely on this fender in total only to have to redo it. I actually got out my Port-o-Power and jacked against the part of the fender in the corner of the yellow lines to push it out. That cracked some of the primer and filler. And of course, I sanded the effected area back to metal and started with body work again. Additionally, I have spent a lot of time on door fitment. Some pics: For the door gaps, I aligned the doors to the best possible position first. This averaged out the gaps at the front, rear, and bottom. Additionally, the door shells (empty of all parts and hardware) are somewhat "flexible". That is to say, I twisted them a bit to then find the best fit for the outside edge of the door panel with that of the fender and that of the quarter panel. From that point forward, filler and primer were used to get the surfaces to match from fender to door, and from door to quarter panel. Left door - to left quarter panel: Left door to left fender: To get the fit this close, I am fixing the door into position where it can't move, and then use sanding blocks across the gaps. So, the surfaces of the adjacent panels become continuous. Right side door to quarter panel: Right side door to fender: Right side door gaps: None of it is perfect, but I am trying. I've got very little time left before I have to hand it over to the painter. I made plans back in November to drop it off to them in January. But that was before reworking the fender and so now I am running behind. I have precious little time left to finish up!

I've been restoring a 240z for over 4 years now, and in that time, I have been having fun collecting parts for it. It seems to me that there is a fun aspect of this car hobby that comes from finding and obtaining old Datsun parts. I suspect there are many of us here who are "hoarders", those who engage is this aspect of the hobby and who have collected either a large amount of Z parts, or perhaps, some amount of quite valuable Z parts? Or, both? So, who are you on the spectrum? Are you focused on collecting parts for just one car... or do you have a hoard to be envied in either its massive size, or high value? And please share some description or pictures of the discontinued/rare exceptional parts you have.

I saw that one in person when I visited Duncan Imports. He has quite a neat collection. https://www.duncanimports.com/exotic-used/Datsun/1972-Datsun-240Z-afe8c89e0a0e0adf0b3b8914a942e2ed.htm

I received the keying kit I bought on eBay. Not sure how complete it is, but looks good: I took the wafers out of the hatch lock that I do not have a key for (row 1) and then looked through the kit to pull out matching wafers (row 2) along with the matching tumbler number from the kit (on the paper). So, if the kit calls them tumblers, they are not wafers? With the wafers (tumbers) all out of the cylinder, I can confirm that the cylinder is the part that is different with regard to R or L or whatever type keys. So, you need the cylinders to match for keying all locks to one key. Also, here are some pics of the part of the hatch lock that seems to wear most. This chrome plated sleeve has the "bar" inside that prevents the lock from rotating as the tumblers press up against it. I think this piece is really soft metal. Sure would be nice to have a quality replacement part for these sleeves. First pic is from my "ratty" hatch lock with no key, second and third pics are from my "nice" hatch lock - for this one I took pics of the lower "bar" and upper "bar". So much for appearances. This is the part that needs to be re-plated. Any ideas for repairing the damage to the bars? Get it chrome plated and then use a two part epoxy? Of course, there is always the quip "not worth the trouble" - I know.

As removed from my 6/71 car that lived in AZ for an unknown amount of time, and was subsequently stored (non-operational) in a garage near Denver CO for over 25 years. So, painted black from the factory.

I know what you mean about the soft metal. The "sleeve" that the hatch lock cylinder works with has partial grooves in it made by the tumblers interfering with it. A bit of 3 in 1 Marvel Mystery oil and I had the wrong key working that hatch lock about as good as the correct key would have! I plan on using some parts from the spare hatch lock I have that currently uses the L type key. The exterior wear is noticeably less, so I am hoping the internal wear is less also. I'd like to get the sleeve re-chromed though. I dislike the discoloration from wear of pushing the hatch lock cylinder in to operate the latch. Question for you, did you rekey the glove box lock to match as well? I haven't taken a close look at that one. Also, I have researched enough online to see that the ignition switch uses different tumblers than the door or hatch locks. Do you have A-16-100 keying kit? At present, I'm thinking it would be nice indeed to get just a few little parts to rekey the ignition. If you can help, let me know.

I was going to share that here last night, but then I realized that sharing the codes might not be wise. I decided to sleep on it. But I did buy one of those. I will just have to rekey my locks in a "smart way" if you know what I mean.

So, this? https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/forward-rocker-reinforcement-left-side-datsun-240z/ A large amount of replacement panels available from them now for the Z's.

Whoops - I just realized that my hatch lock has 5 wafers. Just wasn't paying enough attention there. Can see that in my pic. So four to the 5th power - 1024 combinations.

Hmmm. Yes, I quickly determined that one wafer per position didn't make any sense. 4 distinct wafers, each of which can be in any of the 4 positions, 4 to the fourth, could be accurate, but 256 unique combinations still doesn't make sense to me. My latest theory is that the lock cylinder, or more precisely, the non-moving parts might play a roll. Looking at a cut key makes me think this. The number of "cuts" appear to be more than the number of wafers. I also don't know what is different within the lock for the L type vs. R type keys. Still more to investigate.

Oh, yep, I see. Regarding the numbers 0-9, if you look on eBay for NOS Datsun locks, there are enough right now to see lock code combinations including 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, and 0. I'm guessing 6 is valid as well. So, I don't know how 4 wafers identified as #1, #2, #3, and #4 in the kit turn into codes like M7048, N1709, N1534, (all ebay auctions for NOS Nissan locks) etc. My hatch lock only has 4 tumblers. This kit has four distinct wafers I can't see any evidence looking online of the existence of another necessary kit for the 240z. So, I am wondering if locksmiths have to use special files in order to modify the rectangular cutouts depending on the code number. Maybe the wafers in the kit are starting points, and for certain code numbers, you have to file the slot. Doesn't make any sense to me, actually. There must be something I am missing.

So, the rectangular slot cut in the wafer varies in height. And thanks for confirming the correct position of the wafers when the key is inserted. From looking at key codes on various locks I have, it seems likely that the numeric digits vary for Datsun locks from 0-9. While investigating the rekeying kits, the one I bought seems to be comprehensive for door locks. The kit, however, has only 4 wafer part numbers. How does one use 4 tumbler wafers and achieve all the combinations to correspond to the lock codes (0-9)? Do locksmiths have to modify to slots in the wafers?

Just bought this and will play around with it some, see what I can accomplish. Maybe, the right parts are here to rekey the hatch and door and glove box to match my ignition key. Or, maybe some other option is possible.