Carl Beck

Do these reproductions include the chrome strips? The reproductions of the US versions did NOT... if they include the chrome strips - then $835 per pair seems reasonable to me. Too bad they did not reproduce the North American versions... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Julio: Because the supersonic line along the side of the 240-Z actually is the farthest point on the body from the centerline of the car - applying a body side molding there actually does save the body from most door dings. Given your use of the car - it makes sense to replace the body side molding. The body side molding that uses an aluminum channel to hold a vinyl strip - was replaced in the aftermarket by vinyl strips applied with the double sided tape. This eliminated the aluminum channel - so that the extra weight & cost could be eliminated - the reduction in weight made it possible to hold the vinyl strip on the car with just the double sided tape. I would have two concerns using only double sided tape to hold the aluminum channel/vinyl strip on the car. First it might be too heavy for the double sided tape to hold alone; Second if you were running down the freeway at 70mph+ and a section came off - how would you ever find a replacement for that section of aluminum today. You might try the double sided tape - but also include at least a couple rivets in each section. One thing is for sure - if you use double sided tape both mating surfaces have to be very clean to start with. good luck, Carl

Looks like a very nice example indeed. If I wanted a "nice" 240-Z and I liked the color, I wouldn't be afraid to pay $15K to $18K for it. No pictures of the undercarriage and only two pictures of the engine compartment. Looking at the undercoating in the engine bay - I can understand why. That is a mess that would drive most of us nuts. Nothing that a month of work wouldn't correct... under the hood. Hard to say what it would take under the car. First thing I'd do is pull the engine/tranny and correct the front oil seal, clean up the engine compartment and refresh the engine's appearance. This is a $15K car that it would be easy to wind up spending another $10K and a year of work on. Or it might be a $15K car that the next owner can turn into a $10K car as it is driven the next 30K miles... In 1990 this was a $5,500.00 example... had it been retained in the original condition with 36K miles and simply detailed - - it would be a $25K example today... Wonder what the future holds for it... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: I was looking at the BRE2.net site - and other than a couple Posters and inexpensive Decals, I was wondering what BRE historic items that were expensive and difficult to obtain you were thinking of? The new car cover can't be confused with the original IMHO... the BRE Spooks and headlight covers have always been reproduced or otherwise available. The BRE remote oil filter blocks and BRE/InterPart catalogs are about the only thing that comes to mind as having been expensive and difficult to obtain. What am I missing? FWIW, Carl B.

Buy-It-Now is $4000.00 and he is taking offers... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-240k-auto-coupe-1973-Datsun_W0QQitemZ280350004739QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Cars?hash=item4146299603&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

Hi Stephen: Yes - I knew. My reply was tongue-in-cheek. Agreed - the story that is emerging is even more odd... but some of the comments to this thread are twisted to say the least.... funny as heck.. but twisted... FWIW, Carl B.

Nor do they need your sympathy. Nonetheless it is kind of an odd preference ie. murder over suicide... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: Given the Brock's very active lifestyle, not to mention their travel schedule - I'm not surprised Gayle didn't recall - but these are the same pictures I sent to her a few years ago... Yes - the original BRE Car Covers were 100% cotton, Blue in color with Black Graphics and very form fitting. After 37 years and too many times in the washer - mine has faded a bit, but it is still in very good condition. I'd have to say that the newer car cover materials can be far more effective in keeping the fine dust off cars stored inside. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bruce: See http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619&highlight=Waking+Sleeping My Post #8 Sitting for 30 years, you'll need a lot more than clean fuel. You can plan on brake master and rear wheel cylinders, Clutch Master and Slave. All coolant hoses, rubber fuel lines, most likely rubber brake lines. It is likely that the front brake calipers will need to be rebuilt as well. Depending on how it was stored - you may find dry rot carpet as well. If it still has it's original 73 Flat Top Carb.'s you can expect other problems with them. Take your time... the car is well worth saving and can be a very enjoyable car to drive or show.. FWIW, Carl B.

Maybe we should see if this is another part available in Canada.. If not perhaps we can still order just the pistons and seals etc Third alternative is to get the piston spec.'s and order new pistons from another OEM source... Just a thought.. Carl B. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh - OK - well if we go back pre "Air Flow Meter".. we might as well go back to the system Bosch basically copied and used... Bendix - circa late 50's... Now the car that would be worth $250,000.00 or more - would be one of the 58 Chrysler 300's that were equipped with EFI Of course Bendix developed it for aircraft use in the late 40's... and adapted it for automotive use in the mid-50's. Evolution.... Carl B.

Not Certain - but those look like the pads from the MK-65, four piston calipers.. Are you sure they are for a stock 280Z? FWIW, Carl B.

As I recall - Nissan licensed Bosch's L-Jetronic. That was first available in the 74/75 time frame. L-Jet used a Air Flow Meter with an analog ECU... I don't recall any of that being used before 74/75 {calender year / model year}. From memory it seems that both Datsun and BMW were useing the same system for 75 model year cars. I was at Clearwater DATSUN/BMW at the time.. but that was a long time ago... FWIW, Carl B.

No real reason to believe that they won't work... most likely the same as OEM... Worth a try...

Go back to stock springs... What profile 14" tires??? Go to a 70 series and lower the air pressure to factory spec. just thinking outloud... Carl B.

Mike: Here is one that might help... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32233&highlight=fused+jumper FWIW, Carl B.

It goes from the fuel pump in the rear - to a terminal up under the dash - as the Previous Post shows... You have to install a jumper wire between to the two connectors. There are very good pictures in previous threads - just use the Search Function. Yes - on the 72's the fuel pump will be hot when the ignition is on. In the previous threads - different methods of wiring were fully discussed... Find that Thread - and if you have follow on questions Post them to that thread - so we can all see the pictures your working from. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: That "York" reference may apply to the 240Z. The aftermarket kits used the York piston compressors at that point in time. Once the 280Z's started to arrive with Factory or Port Installed A/C they used Hatachi Rotary Compressors - - there were no Air Pumps on the L28's, so the rotary compressors were mounted on the lower left of the engine. FWIW, Carl B.

How it would be registered and titled would depend on a number of things, including which State you title it in. If you took an original 240-Z, that was titled - and swapped all the mechanical's into the Aluminum body - you would retain the original title and registration. Likewise if you adapted/used an older Corvette drive train/suspension etc. In most States changing component parts on your personal vehicle, does not require a title/ nor registration change. Due to changes in the laws related to getting a Title for Custom Built Cars in many States - you could request a "Custom Car Title" as: Manufacturer = "Custom Car " Model Year under these new laws = could be 1970,71,72,73 Year of Manufacture under these new laws = could be 1969,70,71,72,73 With the Custom Car title you may have to get a "Safety Check" by the State Police.. depends upon what State you are in. It could be driven on the streets - but is supposed to be "of limited use"... not daily transportation. FWIW Carl B.

"IF" that's a VZ decal in the quarter window. "IF" - if the hub caps on that Z are correct for that car - then it would be a 71 Model Year. "IF" that is the case it could be one of our missing Vintage Z's... HLS30 23537. That or it is a picture of HLS30 40904 before or after the pictures with the slotted mags. I don't recall seeing a front license plate like that on 40904.... The only "Red" 1971 VZ that we know of is #40904 and the only 1971 VZ still missing is #23537. FWIW, Carl B.

For the most part A/C was installed by Nissan {actually DAS} at the Port in 78. FWIW, Carl B.

I haven't used that product - Minwax Antique Maple Stain..... however looking at the overall color on the wheel at this point, I believe you will be happy with the result. I think it will accentuate the color... Stain only the bad side - if you want to see it before you do the entire wheel... Carl B.

Hi Roger: I'd say that the short answer is "Yes".... but I'd suggest that the steps go: 1. Strip the car to a bare shell. Media blast the entire body - if that is what you have decided to do. This has the advantage of making any previous body work visible 2. With a bare metal shell - clean it down and apply an epoxy primer. You want to do that as soon as possible after media blasting to prevent flash rust on the sheet-metal. Many shops clean the bare metal with Ospho, then actually rinse it off with water, and blow it dry. The Ospho will etch the bare metal, and protect it from the rinse water.. just blow it dry. Then apply the epoxy primer. All metal patching can then be done, then re-coat the metal where necessary with the epoxy primer. Then do any body work that needs fillers like bondo right over the top of the epoxy primer.. Here you want to work the metal such that only very thin coast of fillers are needed. 3. Yes - paint the engine compartment, door and deck jams, and the interior etc. 4. Assemble the car to the extent that you have the doors, hood, rear deck lid and fenders all properly lined up - - - 5. Apply the top coat of paint to the entire car. Professional shops with great painters, wonderful paint booths and lots of experience - can "Panel Paint" the parts then assemble... but using that method it is easy to have variations in the color, not to mention gaining nicks in the paint ... So Panel Painting is not a good choice for the do-it-yourself'ers. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes. The shear strength of the bolt/stud are far above weight of the engine/tranny. Just be sure you have about a half inch threaded into the block. I usually remove the original bolt/stud and use one about a half inch or more longer - just so I have room for the chain link and washers. FWIW Carl B.

You use the same bolts/studs that used to hold the Factory lifting lugs - just bolt the chain there, using large washers on top of the chain link. Bolt the two front and two rear chains on your Load Leveler together if you have too. So you will have one connection at the Left front of the engine and one at the right rear.