Carl Beck

Hi Pat: The Datsun Dealership that I worked at in 73 put the competition hood vents on only 2 out of several hundred 73 240Z's. It is a very rare Dealer modification to say the least. Yours is the first one done by a Dealer - that I've seen in the past couple decades. Must be a very low mileage example - Yes/No? FWIW, Carl B.

Just my opinion - but $9,400.00 for this green Z in Harrisburg - was a super buy - a bargain - for a buyer in the East. That's like paying $7,900.00 for one on the West Coast and having it shipped back East... Seems to be a pretty complete and fairly straight Series I car to serve as the basis for a complete high quality restoration - pretty hard to find today East of the Mississippi. Good pictures and seems to be a knowledgeable description of the car as well. FWIW, Carl B

No - see picture below: It wasn't really so much a "competition" hood vent - as it was a last ditch effort to get certain 73 240Z's to run with the emissions carb's. - when all other fuel system modifications failed to work to the customers satisfaction. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - "check the tightness" - means use a torque wrench and set them to the higher end of the torque spec. Even though the nuts on the studs that go though the mustache bar are of the "self locking" type - I remove them and apply locktite to the threads - then torque them down. Another "clunk" cause can be bushings that are shot or bolts/nuts lose on the inside /outside of the lower control arms.In which case you will hear them sliding fore/aft. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dennis: See: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/nissan-350z-concept-cars3.htm and http://www.autoworld.com/news/Nissan/Z_Returns.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Les: Really nice to see the Camel GT Pace Car back in its correct livery. Back in the Day - At Daytona, they had a Camel GT Tent set up - within which they had "challenges" for adults and kids. The kids raced RC cars on a track they had set up - and the adults could try their hand at a "Pit Stop Tire Change". They had a Z mockup with front and rear racing tires mounted. You had to take one off - and put another one on {either end}. If you beat the clock - you got a prize. Here are my "Official" Camel GT Driving Gloves... rewarded for a "Quick Pit Stop Tire Change". If you were "quicker than me" - you got a Camel GT Cooler and Emergency Road Kit. I missed that by a couple seconds every time... FWIW, Carl B.

The 72 240Z's started production in Sept - at HLS30 46000. HLS30 51391 would have an Oct. build date. The horizontal defroster lines started in Jan. 72 production cars at HLS30 62001. So there were about 16,000 1972 Model Year 240Z's with vertical defroster lines. Look like a pretty decent Z - in the East it should go for over $10K at least. Most likely will still need another $3K to $5K to really put it in shape for trusted long road trips. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice trailer - higher end model - nicely finished inside etc. What is everyone using to tow these loaded trailers? I was using a Chevy 1/2 ton, Crew Cab... now I'm using a Chevy 3/4 ton - 2500HD Crew Cab, 2wd. The longer wheel base and heavier truck - makes towing far less hassle. But not as user friendly in town. Most any truck will tow these things - it's STOPPING you have to be concerned with! I'd like to go back to a smaller lighter truck - thus one of the reasons to use a smaller and lighter weight trailer. Backing these things up is no breeze for me either - FWIW, Carl B.

Wonder if one could fit that fiberglass Z body over a Superformance Cobra Replica chassis. http://www.superformance.com/mkIII_specs.aspx http://www.superformance.com/mkiii/mkIII_specs/chassis_front.jpg and http://www.superformance.com/mkiii/mkIII_specs/chassis_rear.jpg Interesting...

Hi gnosez: My thoughts exactly. I've considered a Pop-top, a Gull Wing top {where the top and a section of the sides opens from a long hinged center} and even having the entire enclosure raise up off the flat bed... Looking into using aluminum or Fiberglass honeycomb Sandwich panels - as well as a full up custom fiberglass enclosure. The trailer pictured - came up on CraigsList a few months ago - Someone had ordered a custom aluminum trailer for his Pantera in 07, but then the customer went bankrupt in the 08 crash before the trailer was done... The trailer manufacture went bankrupt the following year. The manufacturer had about $3000.00 at his cost - in labor and materials in the unfinished trailer ... and wanted to get something back out of it. So bought it mostly for a prototype platform for $1500.00. It's all aluminum, torsion axles, surge disk brakes etc. It was intended to have a low load height. The entire exterior frame is 3.5"x5.5" aluminum "I" beam, the cross braces are 3"x5" "I" beams. It is presently 20' long point to tail - and was going to be a V-Nose. I may shorten it to 16' deck length + V nose. Deck is 82" outside of the frame to outside of the frame. So in the next few months - I'll be talking to a few fabrication shops and a couple of manufacturers of big fiberglass boats in the area - to see what a custom enclosure would cost... I want to keep the weight under 1700 lbs - the axles are rated at 3,500 lbs each. Might be far less expensive to just buy the Montrose trailer and be done with it...I just wish it was a more attractive and aerodynamic body design... You really don't want 90 degree edges on a trailer and the nose should slop forward toward the truck - the more you can fill in the gap between the truck and the trailer the less turbulence you have to deal with. {aka Bubble Nose}. BTW - with a low profile trailer there is no need to get in the car, nor to be able to stand up straight and walk about it. You load them with a two way power wench and remote control.. ease them off the same way - with the wench letting them out easily. Of course if one is hauling a race car - you need more room for tires/tools/fuels etc. But I'm just using it for Concours Events.. and Club Meets etc. Additionally - with a low profile - I can store it beside the garage, behind a 6' privacy fence. {legally here in my neighborhood}. Maybe I could come up with something that Montrose could build using their techniques - at the same price point - only with a few modifications.... There would seem to be at least a small market for a single purpose car hauler - for sports cars being shown - not raced. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: I currently have a 20' V-nose. I've been pretty happy with the trailer itself - but pulling it down the road is like pulling the side of a barn though the air. Given the experience I've had with it - I'd like something smaller, lighter and lower profile. BRE has the right idea, and Peter has designed a very attractive trailer. Low profile with about 16.5' interior length. For the limited use I have - personally I just can't justify putting $24K into a trailer. {although the thought has crossed my mind several times} I may either build my own custom design - - - - or perhaps just go buy one. In either case it will be all aluminum, no longer than 18' and have a low profile. I don't want the top of the trailer any taller than the top of my truck. I looked at a couple of these at various car shows - and owners seem to be pretty happy with them. 16' deck length - 82" wide deck, torsion axles, electric brakes, aluminum wheels, 62.5" interior height, 10' load ramps. They can be made to your spec.'s if you want one longer/narrower etc. See pictures 33 though 36 http://www.montrosetrailers.com/gallery/automobile_trailers/MVC_004F This trailer is made in Mich. - retail as shown for a 16' is $9454.00 at the factory. Shipping can be $1.25 per mile if they ship it - or you can arrange your own pickup.. However I feel that they could be made far more aerodynamic with a little effort. A big PLUS with this unit is that it has great access to strap the car down, as well as ease of entry/exit from the car. It also has smooth surfaces - no exterior screws/rivets, which makes it far easier to clean/maintain. The typical 20' V nose, in steel frame/aluminum exterior , wood deck and interior - will run anywhere from $4500.00 to $6500.00 depending on exact type of build and interior finish. In good shape used around here they aren't much less either. Add about $500.00 for a weight distribution/anti-sway hitch. FWIW, Carl B.

Visit http://HybridZ.org and SEARCH & READ everything before you Post Questions there that have already been answered in depth. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Sorry - I haven't been following this. Spent most of my spare time these last several months - finishing up a restoration on a 73 240Z for a friend. Originally - I was answering a question by the Original Poster, located in Kuwait. I supplied the Nissan Part Numbers and info from Nissanparts.cc - - mostly to show that the numbers were good. I suggested that he see if a local Nissan Dealer could special order the parts from Japan. Many parts listed as No Longer Available here in the U.S. and some in Canada - are no longer available here, only because of the Inventory Control Software used in the US and/or Canada prevents reordering certain parts from Japan. We went though this with the OEM Door Panels - that had been listed as NLA here in the US for years - only to find later that they could still be ordered and received in Canada. So if you get NLA on parts here in the US - it sometimes pays to check sources in Canada. Likewise if you are outside North America - - it sometimes pays to check with your local Nissan Parts Dept. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: Yes - that was at the Lake Mirror Classic Concours - in Lakeland, Florida a couple months ago. It is a wonderful event, it was a perfect day and lots of really neat Classic / Collectible and Special Interest Cars there. There were about 125 Cars invited to the Concours Event which is held around Lake Mirror; and several hundred Classic/Collectible and Special Interest cars on display throughout the downtown area. Perhaps one of the best organized and operated events I've been to in recent years. Seems that everyone in town was involved and volunteering to help. Even the Police Department. Yes - looks like someone put the Display Sign on the car while I was out looking at the rest of the field - the signs kept blowing over... Someone else must have moved it back to the ground before I returned. FWIW, Carl B.

THAT is the way to buy them - good for you! .. I'm sure you will be very happy with it -it is an exceptional Z. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Greg: I would love to be there - and I'll do my best to make it happen. This is perhaps one of the most enjoyable events of the year.. Carl

Hi Bob: Good to hear from you. Your Z really looks great and I'm sure you had a ball running in such great company. Tell us where you found the car and how long it has taken to get it ready for track duty again. How about some pictures of the engine compartment and interior - and tell us more about the research you did in order to get the car back to its period correct current configuration etc. Is this the car that ran at Daytona as well? FWIW, Carl

Hi Gusbo: Very very nice - I like it a lot FWIW, Carl B.

Hi RIP260Z: I'm sure you have very valid points there. This discussion thread was started two years ago - and long before that and since that - we've had many very involved discussions on the subject of Mr. Goertz's involvement or influence. For that matter the involvement or influence of others as well. I have to say that over the years - as Kats has brought ever more inside information, gathered from ever more sources present on the design teams... it has been ever more difficult to capture more than just the essence of the story - in any way that isn't subject to refute by someone. My mind has changed back and forth on several specifics - - and I'll take a look at the article you reference on the Z Car Home page - perhaps it's time to simply delete any mention of Goertz. As for past discussion - they are just that - past discussions - and yes there are lots of conflicting thoughts and opinions from year to year. FWIW, Carl B.

Part Number from the old Nissan Parts Catalog: Nissan Part Number 85002-E4125 Bumper-Rear Center {std less hole} Nissan Part Number 85003-E4125 Bumper-Rear Side RH {std less hole} Nissan Part Number 85004-E4125 Bumper-Rear Side LH {std less hole} Part Numbers From NissanParts.cc on-line: Part # Description List Unit Price Price 85002-E4125 Bumper-rear-cen$196.02 $149.36 $149.37 85005-N3400 A Bmpr Rr Rh $113.85 $86.75 $86.75 85006-N3400 A Bmpr Rr Lh $113.85 $86.75 $86.75 Subtotal: $322.87 FWIW, Carl B.

To an extent - the answer to your question depends on which intake manifold you are using. In brief there are two different types - One with Long Intake Runners {ie Cannon}, and another with Short Runners. Air/Fuel ratios are one thing - but the velocity of the air flow is also a critical factor in getting the best mixture into the cylinders. The typical Cannon Long intake runner manifolds seem to work best with sizes 36mm or smaller. Low end performance is supported by the 34's - if your going for top speed the 36's seem to be the way. FWIW Carl B.

Picked up a perfect NOS example at the ZCON 2011 - for my 240Z. Trouble is that it is so pretty it might just become "Wall Art"..... Made the entire trip just that much more enjoyable... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Andy: Sounds like you are building a nice collection of fun and interesting cars. Hope you aren't too tall - that S800 can be pretty cramped. I bought my first Datsun 240Z from "Valley Datsun" in Spokane 14 March 1970. Now it's Jaremko Nissan. Paul and his son still race a 2.0L roadster - Paul has been racing Datsun's since 1963. Spokane is a beautiful area and the Pacific Northwest is great country for Sports/GT's to be enjoyed. Keep us Posted on your progress on the 260Z... FWIW, Carl B.

No matter how old - it is an interesting list of cars to buy. Many are reasonabily priced today... 1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GT - I've always loved the Styling of these. 1968 American Motors AMX - Had a 69 - neat looking - lumber wagon. 1970 BMW 2002 - neat cars - I'd buy one if it was restored properly and and if the price was very very right. Otherwise I'd rather have a 510. 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Monza coupe - If you buy a Corvair - you'd want a convertible or Corsa. I've had several - they are always fun. Still quite inexpensive - but for reasons... 1964 Pontiac GTO convertible - I'd want the 2dr. Post sedan. Lightest body. One of the best US produced cars I've ever driven - just pure FUN and fast as hel... 1963 Studebaker Avanti R-1 - I'd want the R2 and today you can pick a fairly good one for less than $25K. Really nice R-1's are out there in this suppressed market for less than $18K Beautiful styling, almost unique in design... Still a car you can drive with decent A/C... Given their very limited production to begin with - I'm always amazed that these haven't appreciated far more than they have. As I recall the R2's were close to $5,000.00 new in 1963... so they were relatively expensive then. Any of them would be a better hedge against inflation than cash setting in a savings account... FWIW, Carl B.

Cleaning my White 72 up - after its road trip to Savanna. About 800 miles round trip..some rain, some bug guts.. Noticed that the rubber on the windshield wipers were crumbling with age. So off to the parts store for refills. FWIW, Carl B.