Carl Beck

Hi Goob; See this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/50750-need-restoration-advice-71-240z-montreal.html#post442929 Great to hear that the engine turns over by hand. Still you want to do a little more "pre-startup" prep. For sure you want to assure that the valve seals are well lubricated - and that you don't have a valve hanging up. Also that the cam lobs and rockers are well lubricated prior to attempting to start the engine... Who knows? Everything might be fine - but on the other hand no sense getting in a hurry and having something costly get damaged - when it could have been avoided. Work with Datsun Spirit - and you should be in good shape.. Good luck, Carl B.

Hi Blue: Now that you mention it - and I look again - I do see the "rod". Thanks. I completely agree about the evolution of "personal computing" and the "internet". I was on DARPA Net. in 73. {USAF Logistics}. FWIW Carl B.

I'd call it a gloss black - because when it was new, you could wash and wax the gas tank to bring out a high gloss. FWIW, Carl B.

black gold man!! Thanks for sharing this - I can attest to everything written as being true - in spades! I got to ride along with these guys when they came to the Pacific Northwest Datsun Dealers events - at Seattle International Raceway. Along with the 510's/1200's and later the Z's - Nissan would show up with an 18 wheeler stacked with OEM wheels/tires. On Seattle's track the stock tires on stock wheels would last about 20 to 30 laps - before being worn to the tread. Mike wrote; "We sometimes pushed each other around the track or, after a good nudge, slid inside for the next turn. Guppy liked to glide up alongside and open my passenger’s door. " What he failed to mention is that they were doing this at 70mph+ through the corners sliding nearly sideways... with one hand on the wheel.. It wasn't finger prints in the dash - it was dents in the passenger side floor boards - from all of us trying to brake... Ah the really great days for DATSUN when Mr. K was in charge. FWIW, Carl B.

He does a great job with the narration. If the car has a Rebello 3.0L - then it better "do something" below 5K.. He might like to hear it at or above 5K - but to say it has nothing below that - something is wrong. Carl

Hi Blue: +1 on visiting the GarageJournal.com site - spend a few hours there and you'll pick up a lot of very creative ideas. Also +1 on having a polished concrete floor. Many of the major Discount Stores and Grocery Stores around here are using this now - as well as some of the Drug Stores. I was going to recommend a Race Deck floor - I love mine - but I'm not sure how that would work with a heated floor. At any rate do something with the floor before you get much stuff in there.. On the vinyl chip floors - the most expensive, very best of them are excellent. I hear lots of problems with the less expensive, thinner vinyl chip layers etc types. Do a lot of research on that subject. Enjoy the process... Carl B.

From memory - there are 10mm and 12mm ring gear bolts. Depends on the year of manufacture. Or was that just with the R200? Secondy - I believe that the rear ends with the large "K" cast in - were built with 4 spyder gears. I think that was the difference between the regular production units and the Nissan Comp. units. The Comp units having 4 spyder gears in an open diff. It will be interesting to see what is inside that new unit.. FWIW, Carl B.

Neat Tool - is there a thin rod - that can be attached - to push down in thinner area's or holes - to measure their depth? Carl B.

Off Topic - but - you too? I'm being forced to move on as well. I hate this!! My 8 year old Mac Pro runs perfectly fine - and does everything I need. But too many applications are "no longer supported" - - - It is kind of like getting "NLA" from Nissan... bummer..

Hi Dale: When the VIN's were gathered - all were reported as running. Going back to that 89xx or 93xx - - in that series I have the following A/T's. 8944, 8947,8958, 9033, 9062, 9090, 9097, 9290, 9310, 9582, 9591, 9603 All A/T's - no VIN's reported in that series as 4 spd.'s so far. First 4 Spd reported past that series of A/T's - 9753. Then the A/T's start again: 12427, 12441, 12500, - - 12658, - - 12746, 12765 - but mixed into this series there appears to be several 4 spd. cars marked with - - in the series. In the 17xxx range - only a few 17574, - - 17595, - - 17631, 17636 Hi GeoJoe: Thanks - it has always been interesting to me to see how VIN's and Engines lined up with Dates of Manufacture - then how/when the A/T's started. Didn't mean to hijack the thread. It "seems" that the first batch of A/T's were in that 89xx - to 96xx range all ran at the same time. Then smaller batches of A/T's were run in the 12xxx range, followed by some more in the 14xxx range. By then they seemed to be mixing production between the 4spd. and A/T cars. So far no A/T's in the Series I cars past 17636 have been noted.. FWIW, Carl B.

But really - get serious - $21K?? Carl B.

Agreed..I'm amazed that there seems to be no reserve - very clean, very low mileage, very stock and original 2 owner Z... If you want a 240Z this is the type of car buy. I wouldn't be surprised to see it go for around $14K. As clean and well cared for as this Z is - it would be a pleasure to do a Concours Restoration on. Most likey the least expensive to do in the end. FWIW, Carl B.

Just FYI HLS30 14799, 14821, 14906, 14959 & 15189 - are all A/T's. Keith - lowest VIN I have recorded with an A/T is HLS30- 07969 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: E-Mail sent.. thanks, Carl

Hi Jim: Price of that "kit"? Also more is shown in the picture than just the "kit" - yes/no? thanks, Carl

In Seattle it should sell for $5K to $6.5K. Compete repaint made worse by everything blacked out under the hood. Missing all emblems, wrong color seats. "Put it in the air and notice the immaculately clean undercarriage that was frame off restored before storage" - - -yea.. I'd like to see that! Most likely sprayed with undercoat to hid the rust.. If you want a nice 240Z - keep looking, this one is FAR from "mint". FWIW, Carl B.

I believe he had to stop - and give up the project. I could be wrong, but remember reading something from him to that effect.. Anyone know for sure? Carl B.

Hi jmorrison146: If I had that 240Z - I'd keep it stock. In simple terms, it will cost you less to keep it that way - and it will be easier to resell, as well as return a higher amount - if you ever have to sell it. You never know what will happen next week - let alone next year. All of us have seen fellow enthusiasts fall on hard times - and have to "give away" their Z's. When things start to go bad in life - the first thing to GO when you need to raise funds quickly - is a Classic / Sports Car you don't need. So if you must sell it quickly and need the most money back out of it- keep it stock. I have a nearly "stock" 72. I use it mostly for road trips and pleasure drives - I did add a 5spd. to keep the noise in the cabin down at highway speeds {70 to 85mph}. I also added a front BRE style Spook..I also have mag's..{but kept the original steel wheels and hub caps} All in all it is a pure pleasue to drive.. and fun to enjoy at local Cars&Coffee mets etc. About Production Numbers: The whole idea that 240Z's will never be worth anything because they made too many - is in my opinion simply silly. While Nissan may have produced 160,000 240Z's in four years of production. Ford sold 190,727 Mustangs in 1970 alone. Chevy sold 124,901 Camaros in 1970 alone. For 1967 Ford sold 472,121 Mustangs. Still think a lot of 240Z's were produced? Still see many of any of those cars still running around? In four years 1964 though 1967 Pontiac produced 286,470 GTO's... does anyone say that they made far to many of them to ever with worth anything? With the recent rise in collector interest in all Japanese cars - I believe the Datsun 240Z's are just starting to come into their own in the Collector Market. Good solid stock/original cars will gain value over the next few years. If you can afford it and want to Mod's a Z - buy one that already has had $5K to $10K spent on it - you'll be able to buy them for less than half what the owner put into them. {that should tell you something as well}. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - the VIN says Series I - build date should be 10/70. Series I VIN's run up through 20xxx. If the front of the car {engine compartment} and the floorboard did have #113 as the original paint - then someone grafted the front of a newer car to the rear of another. Does the car have a rebuilt title? Can you read the VIN stamped into the Firewall? Is the original data tag on the drivers door jam?

Great - Thanks Sean, I appreciate that. Carl

Good - 260Z manuals are pretty rare, since they only made them for a year.. Good luck with the project.. Carl

There is one well used on EBay for $50.00 plus S&H Seems to be missing its original cover - and is in a binder... Carl B.

You wouldn't happen to recall what the width of the seat tracks, on the Honda seat - would you? That is, the outside of the Left track to the outside of the Right track. thanks, Carl B.

Nice - I haven't seen too many of them here. I did like the size/styling of the last MKZ's. Do you know how much the car weighs? Carl B.

Hi Jerry: I don't think I've ever bought one... That might be a pretty rare part to find in NOS condition. But - I'll keep an eye out for you... Carl