Carl Beck

All of this would concern me: Missing all Emblems Painted bumpers Dash Cap Door panels are rough.. Diamond Vinyl covered up on trans. tunnel Seats look pretty beat up Choke Knob missing Tail light finisher screwed on Nasty looking rear deck area Floorboards poorly pitched Spare Tire Well pitted/rust damage Blacked out under the hood - poor color change perhaps All of the above just shout "cheap" and "half fast" - shinny paint to flip a rat. For $5500.00 - it might be a fun street car if cosmetics don't bother you. On the other hand you might just be buying a problem. For my first Z Car - I'd keep looking… FWIW, Carl B.

It is likely that the original spacers are still there. I've only seen a few of them that were broken or falling out on disassembly. Had to pry most of the old one's out - before replacing them. FWIW, Carl B.

I think everyone knows how hard - if not impossible - it is to get the Air Injection Tubes out of the exhaust manifold - without cutting them off etc. I soaked the flair nuts down with Kroil - for a couple days - then applied some heat - locked the Irwin Vise-Grips on the flair nuts and smacked it with a heavy brass hammer - broke every one of them lose - with out rounding them off in the process. Someone else recommended them here on the forum a few years ago - so thanks to them! Carl B.

IMHO - anyone working on these old cars - should have a supply of Kroil Penetrating Oil in their garage. While ATF/Acetone may indeed work a bit better - I don't like the thought of using Acetone on anything. Kano Lab's Kroil is without question the best available Penetrating Oil that you can buy. That and it actually smells pleasant, while it won't destroy any painted surfaces. Yes, it is a bit expensive when you have to pay shipping costs - Nonetheless if you use it, you'll not likely ever go back to anything else. It works wonders - far better than the stuff you buy at the AutoParts Stores. Kroil - Aero-Kroil is the aerosol can. Try it "Risk Free" - with their current Buy One of anything - Get One Free. Two Can's will last the average person a year to two. https://www.kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroil.shtml FWIW, Carl B.

Speaking of Brake Lines and the old flair nuts on them. . . .It is time to recommend getting a set of IRWIN Vice Grips, which have a great head for holding Flair Nuts without rounding them off. These come in different lengths - you need the smaller sizes for brake line work. Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment FWIW, Carl B.

Edited…Oops.."never mind" - answered my own question.. Carl

More or less - I loosen the nuts on the ends of the spindle pins as well - makes the strut assembly easier to drop down. I also loosen the top nut on the strut rod a bit - while it is still secured in the car. Also always use a good penetrating oil on every nut before you start.. The Factory procedure - really didn't take into account 40+ year old spindle pins. FWIW, Carl B.

For Krist's sake - would someone at Nissan HQ - please give that 16 year old, abused and now tired Vintage Z Press Car - the much needed "refresh" so apparently commented on - in the stories that the automotive press writes - every time they get their hands on this badly neglected old warrior. Sloppy Shift Linkage Exhaust Fumes in the Cabin Hairy brakes Blake Z Rong must be a real whimp - if he thinks the steering on a 240Z is "heavy" or "arm pumping". No excuse for having exhaust fumes in a 240Z that is properly maintained. Maybe we all need to write Nissan about this..??? A very bad showing for our Classic Z Cars, to say the least. FWIW, Carl B.

Subject Line say's #502, but the voice on the video says #504? Which is it? Carl B.

Wow - looks like it's in pretty good condition. Is it an 11/69 build date? So now it's owned by John Beck? Should have a 2000 series serial number L24. Post some pictures when it gets cleaned up.. Carl B.

metalmonkey47 - - you are seeing / experiencing the effects that happen, when the top layer of an older formula enamel has been polished off. While you still have a color coat below that top layer of paint - you no longer have the density of paint solids that originally formed in that shinny top skin layer. Time for a new paint job.. Carl B.

I ran into that issue when I wanted to get locks on my 510 rekeyed. The first locksmith that looked at the locks said he had to destroy the bezel - - but then another locksmith happened to come over to see what the problem was - and he showed the first locksmith how to take things apart without destroying the bezel. Turned out the bezels on the Datsun Locks I had - are made in such a way as to be removed and reinstalled. The first locksmith was surprised and admitted that he really didn't look closely enough at them in the first place - just assumed at first glance that they were all the same. Find old and very experienced locksmiths… FWIW, Carl B.

Has to be shill bids - no one would pay that much for that car. At a glance: Finishers under the front bumper are missing Sun roof / Moon Roof? Looks like chips in the paint on the front of the hood Diamond vinyl wrinkled on the passenger side shock tower Aftermarket radio Dash Mat covering the dash Screws holding the rear tail light finisher on Non Stock steering wheel Speaker holes in the door panels 71 Shift lever Boot Seat bottom torn on the driver seat Seat bottom splitting at the seams Missing the rear window defroster switch Fender Mounted Rearview Mirrors - which means holes in the fenders "ZERO" pictures of the undercarriage In general the engine compartment is a low quality street driven car heater core by-passed "California Car"??? This was on EBay listed as being in Bellingham, WA 7 Oct. 2012 FWIW, Carl B.

I remember that car - what was the VIN? Not certain but didn't it also have a new model Dash? Yes - now looking at the EBay ad - it does have a 73 Dash. I also see the VIN 24100 - Where the seller gets that it is a Series I, I don't know. Looks like a pure Series II - late model 1971 240Z. Still - with its faults - $8K isn't outrageous East of the Mississippi. If there isn't major rust.. we all know there is at least some.. Carl

Hi Kats: Very interesting information, thanks for bringing it to us. "JATCO" Japan Automatic Transmission Company - was a joint venture with the Ford Motor Company. The A/T's were just smaller copies of Ford's A/T at the time. (Ford was a major investor in Madza at the time as I recall} There were no orders for the V8 from the US - in part because of the Fuel Shortages here in the US, caused by the "oil embargo" and the ever tightening EPA emissions standards. The fuel shortage brought with it the National 55mph Speed Limit. However even after the fuel shortage had passed - I guess people here valued clean air and water, more than they valued performance. So the US Emissions standards continued to get ever more strict. It took the auto manufacturers more than a couple decades to figure out how to have both low emissions and performance - all with better fuel economy. FWIW, Carl

Hi Kats: OK - - - Mr. Matsuo wrote in his part of the Farilady Z Story - that the original design based on a 4 cylinder / roadster chassis - had to be made wider to fit an A/T in - - -However there is a lot of extra room left there, compared to most production cars. So with the hint of "size and shape" and knowing that Mr. Matsuo wanted to see the Z get a V8 at some future point… I'll have to go with "C" leaving room for the Nissan V8. Whatever the answer - it left a lot of room for SBC's. Carl B.

Hi Kats: Thanks for sharing the new information you have found. Very interesting - now we might have a better idea of what cars we are seeing in some of the Crash Safety Tests as well. I believe it was you that Posted the following Image here some time ago. Do you know yet - how to order a copy of the book on line? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Dennis: Wood grain and color are very close. The finish is smoother, more highly polished on the original. The shape is pretty much the same - only with a slightly small diameter on the repro.. The original 5spd. knob is a little larger diameter than most of the early 4spd.knobs. If I had to guess, I'd guess they used an early 4spd. knob as the example/model. The size difference really isn't much - but of course your hand/fingers can feel it. Carl

Hi Dennis: It arrived a week or go ago. My comments were based on looking at it when writing. As someone else said earlier - most people wouldn't notice it as not being original. Another very nice member here gave me an original - and have to admit that I didn't like leaving it in the BRE Z at shows, when left unattended. Thus my comment about the possibility of someone stealing it. Believe it or not, Mr. Brock gave me a BRE Key Fob/ring for the Z when we were at Amelia Island. I made the mistake of leaving it in the car at another event a few months later - and someone stole it. They were kind enough to leave the ignition key on the seat. {I didn't take the ignition key - as you can't start the car without the key to kill switch, which I always put in my pocket. I also carry a spare kill switch key in the tow truck}. As they say; "there is always one". FWIW Carl B.

The 5spd. emblem on the reproduction is flat on top - the originals were rounded - spherical in shape. The font is OK - but the spacing and color are wrong. The emblem on the original uses a creamy white - almost very light gray - the repro is bright white The repro is a bit smaller in diameter as is the emblem itself. I would say "the chrome piece on the bottom of the original" is missing completely on the repro.{that could be fixed using an older 4spd.knob base}. Nonetheless for $95.00 if someone steals it - you won't have lost an original. Yes - I bought one.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Z fan: That is helpful - and he should be able to find what he's looking for. One just can't be in a hurry. Really well done and ready to drive 240Z's don't come up for sale on the open market too often. Many times the best cars change hands privately. Club members that know other club members who have nice cars - often buy them as soon as the owner mentions a desire or willingness to sell. So if he is anywhere near a Local Club - always good to get to know some or the other members. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Z Fan: Maybe if we knew a little more about the specific things that interest your step-son; about this Z or any others, we could offer better perspectives/advice. For example, does he just like the looks of it - or does he have more interests in the engine/power etc.. Maybe it is just close to him. Does he want a car that he can work on himself or does he want a finished car ready to drive/enjoy? FWIW, Carl B.

OK - so I'm seeing a top surface color change, blacked out under the hood and pretty much a untouched undercarriage. Not seeing all new bushings etc. That and a souped up engine… I'm not seeing anything close to a $20K 240Z. Would anyone put a $12K racing engine - in an engine bay that looks like that? Wouldn't you at least replace the passenger pull handle, and rechrome the driver side door panel? If your going to pull the engine and repaint the whole car - wouldn't you have rebuilt and repainted the suspensions bits/pieces. No - I'm not seeing anything close to $20K.. Not saying it is a bad car - just way over priced. FWIW, Carl B.

It will be a minus factor to people looking for a clean early Z - but HybridZ's done in a professional manor sell easily for far more money… More than the person spent doing it? Maybe not. But the market values for a clean early Z {#3 Condition" might be in the $13K to $15K range right now - and the well done HybridZ might sell for $18K to $25K or more..{all depends on the car of course}. WE have seen some shoddy V8 swaps lately not bring $12K…in those cases it would have been better to leave the car alone. FWIW, Carl B.

Do Quality Work - no matter if it's Stock, Street Mod or HybridZ. We all know the difference between "Quality Work" and "Half-Fast" work when we see it. Do it right the first time - or leave it alone. Go "Mild" not "Wild" - A really well done HybridZ. with a beautiful Corvette V8 and fantastic drive train etc - - can have its value to others destroyed when the owner paints it some horrendous wild Color - or has Skills and Big Boob air brushed on the hood etc. Want to increase Value - start from a lower beginning point. Control your spending to begin with. Just because you got in a hurry and paid too much, or did too much keep - in mind you won't recover most of it. I'm sure there are more "rules of thumb"… FWIW, Carl B.