NCdatsunZ

Here are my compression test results. One:135 Two:135 Three:135 Four:130 Five:120 Six:120 The gauge held pressure on all cylinders.

Ok so I warmed it up this morning and noticed that it would rev up ok with the choke on. But when when I took the choke off, it still died. I pulled the spark plugs out and found that the number 6 spark plug was fouled up with carbon. The rest of them looked burnt except for the number 3 spark plug which was wet. I put in new spark plugs a few days ago. The Float bowl hoses were not kinked. and I am going to do the compression test later today and will post results.

I borrowed a vacuum gauge. The vacuum advance on the distributor held 12 In.Hg. I followed the line to the nipple on the front carburetor and check the vacuum there and it hovered around 15.This is with the car running. The servo diaphragm doesn't hold any vacuum, nor does the A.B Valve or the control valve. I did use a Haynes manual and I had no idea you were supposed to count counterclockwise. I went backed and checked the firing order and that all the spark plug wires were connected properly and they were.

Yes I have an FSM. The thing is called a servo diaphragm and it is used to keep the accelerator from going from full throttle to none at once..... right? I've triple checked the spark plugs wires. I'm getting a vacuum tester and compression tester today. I redid the float levels, one of them was off by about 2mm. I turned the nozzles down 2 full turns. Sorry for the "This thingy, that stuff" language. I tried to show pictures because they say a thousand words

Around 800. Bare with me on this because this is my first project. How do you check for vacuum? I have a multimeter but have no clue how to use it.

Well my plan is to get it running well enough to drive it to my mechanic. Quick question. The rod outlined in red doesn't move even with the engine running. Is it supposed to move? It is keeping the thing outlined in yellow from moving as well. Might this cause the problem? Would it be wise at this point to delete some of the stuff on the balance tube like I have seen others do?

I've replaced all the rubber lines, fuel filter, had the tank boiled out and sealed, put a new battery it it. I have new plugs and wires, new distributor cap, rotor and points. The car is sitting in the garage and hasn't moved so it is not under a load. Is there a way to check the timing without a timing light?

Hi I've been restoring my 72' 240z that's completely stock. I've got round top SU carbs that I rebuilt with the Z therapy rebuild. I recently got it running for the first time in fifteen years which is great. After the car gets up to operating temperature, and the choke is completely off, if I spike the accelerator it bogs down. If i hold the accelerator down about halfway it bogs down and eventually dies. If I feather the throttle and get the rpms up to about 2000, then spike the accelerator it will rev, but with quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I checked the float levels using the clear tube method and both appear to be fine. I'm not sure what to do next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Will

When I was looking for smoke in the engine bay I noticed a bolt wobbling around in this spot. I tried to tighten it back down but it snapped leaving the stud buried inside the engine. Would I be able to limp it to my mechanic in this condition?

Hi I've got a 72 240z. I recently changed the thermostat housing and used A LOT of penetrating oil to remove it and the fuel rail. I put it back together today and cranked it up. It ran fine but I noticed a good bit of smoke coming from the engine. I shut it off and stood by with a fire extinguisher and tried to figure out why it was smoking. The smoke seemed to be coming off of the exhaust manifold. Is this just penetrating oil burning off? What should I do to make it not smoke? There doesn't appear to be any leaks in the valve cover gasket or the thermostat housing. Also I just put the air cleaner housing with a new air filter on. Thanks Will

Thank you guys so much! With some heat and some pb blaster it came right out!

There was but I removed them to have more room to work.

Hi I'm a novice mechanic with a problem. What would be the best way to remove this rusty stud?

I let it run for a few minutes then very slowly took the choke off and it ran!!! giving it any more than a tiny bit of throttle makes it die. After it warmed up, it sprung a leak. :disappoin It was leaking from somewhere behind the rear carb. I'm assuming it's the water passageways. I tried to plug them up but I probably did something incorrectly. Any instructions on how to plug it up properly?

Not very long. Will leaving the choke on for a few minutes foul the plugs? I am not familiar with the clear tube method, any links?

Problem Solved!!!!!!! Part of the choke linkage was getting stuck on another screw. But now.... The car starts and idles fine with the choke on, but when I take the choke off, the engine dies.

I have never really worked on a car with carburetors before so sorry for the inexperience but which spring is the return spring? The two long springs that attach to the linkage are still there. If it is the two long springs that go from the linkage to below the carburetors, then they are still there.

Hi, I've got a 1972 240z with round top SU's that sat for many years. I put all new fuel lines, fuel pump, plugs and wires, distributor cap, points, and did the Z Therapy carburetor rebuild kit. Last night I got the car to crank and sit at idle long enough for me to adjust the timing and fiddle with the fuel air mixture settings. Now When I crank the car it acts as though the accelerator is stuck to the floor even though the floor and linkage are not. Is my Z haunted? What should I do?

Hi I'm going to try and crank my Z and get it running again. I have all new fuel hoses, a new fuel pump, fuel filter. I did the Z Therapy carburetor rebuild. I had the gas tank boiled out and sealed. The car is definitely getting spark. Is there a way I can check to see that fuel is getting through the carbs and into the engine without cranking the car? And is there any other advice or things I should do before I try and get the car started? Thanks Will

Shaped and installed new ss brake lines for the front drivers side and ripped out the front passenger brake line. Also set up my refurbished gas tank next to a space heater for the sealant to cure.

Ok, so I've been restoring my 72 240z. It was sitting in a barn for 15 or so years. It had about a half tank of bad gas in it, so I drained it and attempted to do the por-15 tank sealer kit. I decided I wasn't satisfied with my work so I took it to a radiator shop to have it boiled out and sealed professionally. I reinstalled the tank and put in all new fuel lines. I got a new fuel pump and wanted to see if everything was working up to that point. So I bypassed the fuel filter and connected the gas line running from the tank to the fuel pump and pumped it by hand. The gas that came out of the line had a pretty strong green tint to it. I pumped about 2 medium sized mcdonalds cups full and it was still green. Is the gas green because of residual gas left in the lines or because of some left over sealer? The sealant the radiator shop used was blue. What do I do to fix my problem?

Yes the resistor was warm to the touch. The wires were black with some sort of light stripe on the side. It was hard to tell though, they're old and dirty. 1. the resistor was new 2. This is possible, although it seemed pretty obvious which wire went where. 3. This is also possible. Noob question: What kind of tool do you buy to check voltage in automobiles? Right. I don't remember if there was pressure when I installed it. With the fuel lines attached, I pumped the fuel pump and the fuel flowed out as it should. Also, at first there was bad gas coming out, so i continued to pump it until the gas was clear. I've had the gas tank boiled out and sealed so I don't think rust coming through the lines wouldn't be a problem. I'm not quite sure how the fuel pump works but I'm assuming there's a lobe on the camshaft that spins around and pumps the little arm on the fuel pump. So I don't think that there would be a problem there.

Replaced the ballast resistor and tried to crank it. It ran for longer and idled at like 400 rpms, then died. The ballast resistor was smoking after it died. It wasn't getting fuel either. I took the fuel line that comes from the fuel pump to the carb and pointed it in a cup and had somebody crank it. It wasn't pumping any fuel. I got the fuel pump new at autozone. What should I do next, this is becoming very frustrating.

Replacing it today anyway. I'll be very happy if this is all it needs. What do you mean by opening up the needle nozzles?

Ok, I suppose I have gotten a little ahead of myself here. One of the vacuum lines cracked and broke. I'm going to go through and replace them, then use the manual to properly adjust the float level. Thanks for all the help!!!