Inf

I haven't ever heard such a thing, and I would imagine it to not be true... doesn't take more than 30 seconds to make an account here, and there are plenty of accounts with fewer than 5 posts... It would definitely cut into their profits. Nonetheless, I would be interested if this turned out to be true.

Now here's the important question: is he still on the unrebuilt original motor, and has he been using Mobil1?

Not a fan, really. I think it's a small improvement over the 350Z, but that's not saying much from my perspective. Mainstream car companies don't make sports cars anymore, not in the traditional sense of the word.

Bummer. I haven't heard anything bad about the BMW cap MSA was selling, so I can only assume the zcar.com thread had the wrong part number. MSA no longer sells it, so I can probably assume the supply "dried up" under the demand from z-car owners. Also, thanks MikeW. I measured mine and it's the same. 57mm is about 2.25", and the center section of this BMW cap seems to be a good 1/16" larger than that.

Hrmm, could someone with a 240Z do me a favor and measure the diameter of their gas flange opening? The part number I THINK it is is only 8 dollars or so at Courtesy

Hello all, A few years back I read about this BMW locking gas cap that was alleged to be a perfect fit in our 240Zs, so I bought one for my 72. Prior to this, my car had some no-name brand locking gas cap that some previous owner had installed long ago, but the locking mechanism broke and it would no longer seal. I picked up one of these BMW caps from partstrain.com based on part numbers I found on zcar.com. I believe this swap has since been sold by MSA, as discussed here, and on the zcar.com thread linked in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24952 At any rate, the BMW gas cap did not fit my flange. The center section of the cap was slightly too large to fit. I instead had to go back to using this old non-locking gas cap which I was told was for a 240z, and it fits fine. My question is this, judging by these photos, does my flange appear to be some aftermarket version to fit the old aftermarket locking gas cap the car used to have? The 1st photo is the flange mounted on my car, the 2nd is the non-locking "240z" gas cap I either got from another member here, or off ebay (can't recall). The 3rd and 4th pictures are the BMW cap. I think it could be made to fit with some modification to the flange, but I would rather not do that, in case the flange may be NLA... I'm trying to find the original flange on the microfiche to see if replacements are available, but I can't tell from the illustration exactly what is what... I think it may be 17212-E4101... I would post a screenshot from the microfiche, but I believe it's against the rules? Thanks

Awesome, thanks for the info. Ordering my parts right now. I completely dismantled my fuel pump a few years back trying to troubleshoot something else, and my diaphragm was showing some signs of wear (It'll probably show some light surface cracking by the time I pull it out). Back then I just assumed the parts were nowhere to be found, because one of my manuals (Haynes maybe? FSM?) listed this as a "non-serviceable part."

http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/dash.html

Great post, thanks. I recently added "fix fumes problem" to my car to-do list. I'll for sure come looking for this thread whenever I get to that item

Hey Zedyone, did you get this done yet? I'm planning on doing the same thing myself. I've spent too many years with that same MSA air dam from the PO, and the more original look appeals more to me. Looking forward to seeing pics of your new setup.

Thanks Carl, I edited my original post for clarity. The ones on the left (mounted on the car) are the ones I got from Courtesy. Assuming the left-right picture order is the same on your computer, I guess I now have the OEM style part, which is good.

Hello all, My wiper blades that I've had on my 03/72 built 240z had finally given out (the blade insert), and I decided that since the blade assembly had a little damage anyway (one of the underside tabs was partially snapped off), I would order some new ones. I searched the forums and found several references to the "correct" part number being B6370-E4100. I searched that part number on Courtesy's site, and ordered them for about $15 each. There was no picture, it just had the generic cardboard box image they use. The new blade assembly (pictured on the car in the attached image) doesn't have the smooth front that the old ones had (pictured on my desk)... I think the old ones look much more elegant, and I always assumed they were the original deal. Can anyone provide some proof of which is the "original" type? Also, the E4100 part number differs from the one Courtesy lists as the "real" replacement, B6370-00001. The price is ever so slightly lower for that part, and I could tell from the photo on the site that they were not the same: http://www.courtesyparts.com/wiper-blade-assembly-1970-1976-240z-260z-280z-p-569052.html?cPath=7724_7752_8893& This is why I went with the sight-unseen part listed here by other members. The E4100 assembly is not listed anywhere, and can only be found by searching for the part number. Edit: The picture on the left (mounted on the car) is the replacement part, as sold by Courtesy. The picture on the right (on my desk) is the part I had mounted previously, which is apparently NOT OEM.

One tip I can offer you: be careful removing the little circlip from the pin that goes through the shift lever and tranny fork. It's one of those things that is easy to have pop off and vanish, and a pain in the arse to go to the store in search of a replacement.

I assume you're talking about the OUTER door handles... I can tell you that the handles Black Dragon sells are NOT Nissan OEM; they are repros made by some company out in Taiwan or some other such place if I remember correctly. I replaced the drivers side door handle a few years back, and almost immediately started having problems. The rough cast "arms" that go from the back of the chromed handle through the holes in the door were not exactly the same shape as the original part. There were some edges on them that cause it to get hung up against the edges of the holes, it was a tight fit. At first it was minor, but now the door handle sometimes gets stuck in the "up" position and it requires a little nudge to make it fall back closed. Additionally, the rubber seal has started to come loose and sometimes raises up with the door handle. Long story short, I suggest you get the genuine Nissan OEM parts from Courtesy (assuming that's what they sell, call to make sure). This is on my list of things to fix.

I'm about to do this job myself, so I've been looking at different types available. The ones at Harbor Freight are very cheap, but the ones they offer at AutoZone in their loaner program have safety pins on both ends. I'm assuming this is to prevent the dangerous fly-off cbudvet mentioned.

In the 4th picture it looks like the first set of glasspacks is touching the body of the car. Is there space there? I would think direct contact would cause problems, making the floor much hotter. Looks pretty nice, I hope you can record a video so we can hear it

This thread jumped the shark a LONG time ago, so I just thought I'd throw this little piece of history out there... The hand over the heart routine isn't as old of a tradition as you probably thought. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bellamy_salute

Well, it's the damndest thing. The problem went away. I'll bring this back up when it starts misbehaving again

Well, it's not that one of the blinkers DOESN'T blink, it's that when the passenger side indicators are flashing, they are blinking at opposite times. I will take a video and post it tomorrow night when I have time.

New info: The left turn signal works fine on the outside too. When the right turn signal is active, the rear light seems to work right; As the flasher relay "ticks" it goes on and off in sync with the arrow indicator in the tach. The front under-bumper light is another story - when the tail light T/S comes on, the front goes off, and when the rear light goes off, the front light comes on, if that makes sense. In between pulses, the front right T/S is still lit by the running light bulb (i.e. it the lamp does not become completely dark) Then, when the T/S switch goes back to the center position and the right side T/S indicator is stuck on in the tach, the rear light appears normal, but the front T/S lamp is completely dark (i.e. not even the running light lamp is on).

Hrmm, I should also mention that it only happens when signaling right. Signaling left works normally. Isn't the same T/S relay used on both left and right?

Hi guys, Driving home last night ('72 240z), the right turn signal light became stuck on. When the turn signal switch was returned to the center position, the right indicator in the instrument panel stayed on (without ticking on and off). I tried signaling left and right, flipping the hazards on and off, and it stayed on. After a minute or so it went back off, but did the same thing again the next time I went to signal a right-hand turn. My switch was rebuilt my Dave last year (and I installed both of his relay kits), but I have a feeling the problem is not in the switch itself... Has anyone had this problem before? I am looking for some info before I start poking around, but I couldn't find anyone else having the problem with the search function. Thanks, Andrew

The consensus in this thread is right, Dave's headlight relay kit is great and extremely easy to install. I also had the 'puff of smoke' from my combination switch base. My combo switch problem mainly centered around the running light/tail light circuit causing me all sorts of problems, like driving over bumps and having all the tail lights and dash lights cut out, making smoke, refusing to turn off, etc. Dave rebuilt my switch (end result, it's like new) and I also bought his taillight relay harness. I feel much more confident about the electrical reliability of my car now that I know only a tiny fraction of the normal current is flowing through my switch, and for these 35+ year old switches, that high current = component death. The taillight relay harness kit was slightly more involved to install (primarily because I had an a/c evaporator box to contend with in the passenger footwell), but still doable with some very basic tools. This sounds a bit like an advertisement, but I was satisfied all around with what I got, so I feel compelled to talk about it. I still haven't upgraded to H4s yet, but maybe I will get a hella kit when I get my car back from the body shop. Also, whoever told you that would be "standard" current draw must be talking about some other vehicle. DC current is power divided by voltage, plain and simple, given the same 12-14V input, the 130/110 bulbs will definitely be drawing as much as double the standard 240z bulbs. I would say you are lucky to have not burned out your wiring harness already.

I refuse to use my phone while driving except to check the time (if the radio is flashing 12:00 after a battery terminal disconnect). I really don't even like having a conversation with another person in the car so much either. I am constantly trying to stay alert because, to me, every other driver on the road is a potential threat who WILL plow into me if I allow them to. I've had so many near collisions because some idiot veered into my space and I had to take evasive action. I count myself lucky so far. I have been shocked and appalled at some of the things I have seen people doing while driving around town. Texting... reading a NOVEL propped up on the steering wheel... putting on clothing, i.e. neckties.... fiddling with a running laptop in the passenger seat. I avoid these people like the plague. If I hang back and watch them for a bit I will usually start to see them weave around or even run a stoplight or stop sign. It's clear to see natural selection is still at work every day, but it is unfortunate that these fools also endanger innocent people around them. After about 4 years of using my 240z regularly as a DD it finally ended up in the body shop as of today... why? Because a sorority girl neighbor of mine parked illegally in the garage spot next to mine (usually occupied by a meticulous Audi driving male) and plowed into me either coming in or pulling out. I have to give her credit that she did leave a note, but it still angers me that after all the close calls I've saved my car from, it really came down to some idiot breaking the rules in a secure garage I pay a substantial fee to keep my Z parked in.

Me too