MikeW

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=scranton+from+pittsburgh

You have to remove the front cover. I don't think you'd be able to get to it through the oil pan any easier than you could get to it from the top.

http://www.hybridz.org/

Just keeping the chain from falling down isn't good enough. Unless you wedged something down between the chain links you're out of luck. When I was 18 and tried the same thing you're doing I did wedge a block in there but I must not have gotten it tight enough. The tensioner popped out a little bit because I then couldn't get the cam sprocket back on the camshaft without a bit of force. A few days later while driving the tensioner broke, the chain slipped, and all of my exhaust valves got bent.

http://www.autoweek.com/article.cms?articleId=7106

The choke should only be pulled back to start the car and drive while it's still cold and then pushed all the way forward once the car has warmed up.

The '73 bumpers stick out a little further. The bumper on eBay appears to be an earlier version to me. If the '73 bumpers really did use the shock absorber type mount as you say then clearly the eBay bumper uses the earlier simple bracket.

I've been thinking of doing this myself. One thing to consider is you apparently have to let the stuff dry for at least 7 days before driving on it. If that's truly the case I was thinking I might have to do a portion of the garage at a time and relegate one of the three cars to spending the night outdoors for a while.

I once had the rear driveshaft connection to the differential come loose and experienced horrible clunking and vibrations. As I recall three of the four bolts came out and the fourth was loose. While I wouldn't want the rear of the driveshaft to drop at highways speeds I suppose that would be better than dropping the front. I saw the MythBusters episode where they caused the front to drop right into a carefully prepared pothole ...

You are correct.

It sounds very much choke-related to me. Cooler temperatures certainly have this effect. I would first verify that pulling the choke handle back all the way actually actuates the chokes on both carbs.

I assume you meant you take this curve twice a day.

Once you get the digital images on your computer you can simply attach them to a follow-up post here. When composing a post just scroll down to the "Additional Options" section and click on the "Manage Attachments" button. Note that there appears to be a maximum size of 1024x768 for attached images.

I just put a piece of tape on mine. I drove with that connection unplugged for years (a previous owner had removed the pump) before realizing that the place where it enters the air box bypasses the air filter. A rubber plug of some sort does seem like a better idea.

I think it's pretty obvious once you look at them how they come off. They all have some sort of clamp that firmly attaches to the black cable sheath. Some of mine have a straight wire coming out of the end with a type of set-screw that grips it while others have a sort of loop on the end that simply hooks around a control level.

This is far easier if you follow all four of the control lines and unscrew them at the far ends. I wish I had known that years ago when I first tried to remove mine ...

Your car might well have only 13,000 original miles. I didn't inspect it close enough last Saturday for the typical things that would indicate that it had rolled over. One often-overlooked indication of a car that has higher mileage than indicated is the amount of wear on the brake and clutch pedals. While these can easily be replaced if they are worn it is a good indication of high miles.

A while back I was talking to some other car guys (Corvette, Mustang, etc.) and found out about a growing problem with restored show cars: counterfeited records. People actually make up documentation to prove their car is somehow special. Frankly a super-low mileage car that hasn't been driven for long periods of time could actually be in worse shape than a properly driven and maintained car with high mileage. I let my car sit practically without cranking it for over 10 years and I had to replace a lot of rubber parts to feel safe with it.

Not to hijack this thread but when I was looking for a proper high-speed circular (non d/a) polisher I couldn't find anything that wasn't high end. When I went to my local Lowe's home improvement store I found a large selection of angle grinders which are essentially the same thing. When I asked if any of them were variable speed I was told that the only such model was actually the lowest priced model. I removed the guard and bought a velcro polishing disk and matching wool bonnet. It works perfectly as a polisher. For the following link you may need to plug in a zip code. This isn't exactly the same model I got but it's the same idea: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=149192-38307-AG458UL&pad=true

If you are using Windows XP there's a free set of tools from Microsoft called PowerToys that makes resizing as simple as right-clicking on the file in explorer and telling it to re-size. It will optionally keep the original and create the smaller file with a new name. Here's a link to all of the PowerToys: http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx Here's a direct like to the image re-sizer tool: http://download.microsoft.com/download/whistler/Install/2/WXP/EN-US/ImageResizerPowertoySetup.exe

Mark, For what it's worth, I find that the "ignore list" feature of this site can be quite useful.

$6000 Australian dollars equals roughly $4500 US dollars. While I know next to nothing about those cars that doesn't seem high to me for any car that's been restored well.

You may be thinking of ZBarn which is near Knoxville ... http://www.zbarn.com/

There are two sets on eBay right now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-510-Door-Panel-Clip-Cups-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33705QQitemZ8007227833QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-280z-Door-Panel-Clip-Cups-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33654QQitemZ8007872658QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Google maps: http://maps.google.com/maps?q=32%C2%B0+51'+N+96%C2%B0+51'+W&iwloc=A&hl=en