MikeW

Somehow I doubt that WalMart has made it to Australia ...

Search Froogle for "Revell 240Z": http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=revell%20240Z&hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

I'm not the one selling them; I was just pointing it out because I thought it was kinda funny.

Ahh, I guess that's what I get for removing and re-installing the dash all by myself without taking any notes or pictures or properly labeling the screws and bolts. Looks like I'll be taking it back out. At least I'll be able to get to the air vent easily at that point. :dead:

Ok, I know. I was being sarcastic. :cheeky: They look like they were dug up somewhere.

Yours for only $150 ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908390312&category=33550

Are you sure your existing radiator can't be repaired at a local radiator shop? All that really matters is the top and bottom caps as the entire core and be replaced.

Actually, mine are difficult to open. I think the cable is binding. It's hard to pull and when it does open I notice that the baffle barely moves. Speaking of the vent knob, I notice that there's an extra threaded hole in the dash right above this knob. It looks like some sort of bracket should go there but I don't see anything listed on the parts CD for this location. Any idea what this hole is for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7907614788&category=43961 This looks exactly like the plastic <a href="http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=WCC">center caps</a> sold by MSA for $6.95 each and the set of <a href="http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=25-2055&Category_Code=WCC">emblems</a> for $5.95 for a total of $33.75. The bid is currently at $55.

The safest way to get to the gauges it by removing the heater control panel. It's a bit tricky, however, because of the cables that got to the control sliders. The other option is to go through the glove compartment. That's easier but you're likely to damage the cardboard glovebox trying to get it out. If that happens to you just let me know. The knob beneath the speedometer resets the trip odometer. The other knob is a rheostat (dimmer switch) for the instrument panel lights.

I'm glad I'm not the only one. Keep in mind that I did wedge in a piece of wood as specified in the FSM. However, it must have not been quite tight enough and therefore let the tensioner pop out just enough to make the chain too tight to get the sprocket back on the cam.

What's the story on the later hatch?

It may be different on your model but on mine the thick wires that connect to the headlight switch are red and white/red. One of them has a male connector and the other female so it's possible to simply unplug them from the switch and connect them together. If this turns on your headlights then your switch is bad. If not, as you say, the problem is elsewhere.

I suspect the turn signal is similar but I don't know since mine works fine. I did attempt to take apart the wiper side of the combination switch but it's a lot trickier. There's a tiny ball bearing and a small contact plate that are hard to reassemble.

My FSM (1972) doesn't even list a timing chain replacement interval. I know that timing belts in modern cars tend to be replaced at 60,000 miles but I suspect many go way over that due to owner neglect. I would think that the chain should last much longer than that.

Absolutely. I wasn't claiming that this would normally happen in the normal course of action. This is just an example of the bad results of a failure in this area.

Bingo. Here's a better shot.

I had to replace the head gasket and apparently failed to sufficiently wedge in the block of wood holding the tensioner in place. When putting things back together I had trouble getting the cam spocket back on and had to use a bit of leverage to coerce it. This apparently weakened the tensioner because a few days later while driving everything went bad in a hurry. It appears as though the tensioner broke which in turn caused the chain to slip. Keep in mind that I was a dumb teenager at the time (before helpful intenet resources) and only figured what I had done wrong after the fact.

This kind of trouble ...

I think they were all dealer add-ons. Mine were riveted on. Now they're gone.

www.midwestz.com Beware that she's gone AWOL so you might not get a prompt response.

Here's a zipped-up PDF document that will hopefully help you fix the switch. repairing 240z combination.zip

Too bad this one has a sunroof. Otherwise it looks fairly nice. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2483518450&category=6187

Obviously it would be cheaper for you to install the header yourself. If would be far easier to let them do it. Be prepared for some difficult nuts. The nuts that connect the exhaust manifold to the down pipes can be especially tricky since they're hard to get to and subject to a lot of heat. You'll probably find a lot of rust wanting to keep the nuts from turning. Do yourself a favor and soak everything thoroughly with some good penetrant well in advance.

I'm guessing a long vacation (holiday for some of you).