MikeW

When I got new emblems from Chloe a while back I noticed that one was marked L and the other R. I installed them that way but otherwise didn't see any difference between them. I suppose I'll have to pull them back off and inspect them more carefully.

Yes, you can remove the head without removing the timing chain cover. It's absolutely critical to wedge something in the chain guide to prevent the timing chain tensioner from coming out and putting too much tension on the chain. If it pops out you won't be able to get the chain back over the camshaft sprocket. I learned this the hard way. Every service manual I've seen has proper instructions on this procedure and some even have instructions on how to make your own wedge out of wood.

The only part of Dave's harness that is specific to anything are the connectors. You just unplug them and plug the harness in instead. I'd be surprised if Nissan had to change the connectors as it's only got three wires. They're right in front of the radiator on each side where the harness comes from each headlight. Perhaps you could unplug yours, take a picture, and upload it here.

I don't really need to see pictures when shipping is quoted at $300.

It's hard to say from the picture of the quarter panel but I'd say that the roof can be fixed fairly easily. My roof had some waves in it (probably from someone sitting on it, etc.) before I had it painted a while back. The guy who did the work whacked it a few times from beneath with a 2x4 to get it close to the right curvature and then slowly worked on getting it perfect. The roof is easy to access from beneath and it's easy to see you're progress while working on it. You'll need a new headliner and paint work but you won't be able to see it afterwards.

When I test drove a G35 coupe a while back the sales guy was quick to point that out. I then tried on my other cars and notice that the regular lights seem to come on instantly as well. I wonder what the real time difference is and how to measure it adequately? Perhaps a high speed camera aimed at one of each type of light wired in parallel through the same switch? Maybe the incandescent bulbs come on instantly but take some time to get to full brightness?

I used a special glue that's just for plastic to fix the housing that covers the clip that the rear-view mirror attaches to and it worked quite well. I think this is what I used: http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MT&Product_Code=82565-F

The last pair purchased by a club member went for a considerable price. You might want to read this thread and encourage Will to get on with the plan despite that fact that he has a new baby: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14343&highlight=headlight

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=45493&postcount=34

Keep in mind that the steering wheel is not really wood but rather a plastic made to look like wood. This has been debated many times here in the past. As I recall, others have also discussed various restoration techniques so you may wish to search old posts to find what worked for other people.

Welcome to the club. Your profile indicates that you've got an early 240Z. Feel free to tell us all about and and upload some pictures to your gallery.

From the web page it appears as though the product only comes in 6 x 11.75 inch sheets. Do you know if they have rolls or longer lengths? Perhaps it's so thin that you could overlap two sections without really noticing it. Sounds interesting.

It's Carl Beck who runs the internet Z car club (www.zhome.com) and who posts here occasionally.

Agreed. Here's one I like much more. It looks even better in person; Kevin has put a lot of work into it while maintaining the original clean body lines. http://www.zcar.com/month/2003/12/

Is the car burning oil? If the plugs are fouled with oil then it's either coming past the rings or through the valve guides. A compression test can help you determine which is the source of the oil.

Yes, it's a dark blue almost clear plastic.

I also used metal tape but cut it into a 3/8" wide strip and put it on a piece of plexiglass in order to polish it with metal polish. I first used a board to support it but the wood grain appeared in the tape as I polished.

The picture appears to be the same Precision kit that many vendors sell. I got mine from MSA. I too had to really slam my door at first with new seals but over time it gets squeezed down and becomes easier and easier.

It's possible that one of the carb float bowl needles is stuck causing you to not get any fuel to half of your cylinders. Do all 6 plugs look the same?

As I recall the title on my car said 4 cylinders as well. I'd have to guess that it was back in an era when typical Americans looked down on Japanese cars and just assumed they were all under powered 4 cylinder econo boxes.

4cyl ?????

The VB catalog is where I often look for this stuff. Here's the way they list it: 240Z/260Z/280Z G H L S30 ##### Blank = Coupe G = 2+2 H = L24 for 240Z R = L26 for 260Z H = L28E for 280Z L = Left Hand Drive Blank = Right Hand Drive S30 = Car model ##### = serial number Chris - were the U, UV, UN, F, and A designations ever on the VIN plaque itself?

The yellow car pictured also has the original style tail lights unlike the white 1975 2+2. Somehow I think they've got the wrong picture.

No, the G signifies a 2+2.

Cavitation is normally associated with a phenomenon produced by a boat/ship propeller turning too fast but the situation with a water pump impeller would be the same. Because of low pressure on the trailing side the water can actually boil (even at low temperatures such as ocean water) thus creating bubbles. I would guess that boiling would be more likely in a car cooling system which is already close to boiling as it is. Not only does this reduce efficiency it can actually damage the impeller/propeller. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation