MikeW

I don't think it's possible to burn out a bulb with butchered wiring. You can take a 3W instrument bulb and wire it directly across your car's battery and it will simply light up. Take a solid wire, a wrench, or a screwdriver and run it directly across the battery and things will get exciting real quick. The bulbs operate a 12V and unless the voltage was significantly higher I don't think there'd be any problem.

The factory service manual for my '72 lists 3W. Keep in mind that it really doesn't matter what the wattage is. A 4W bulb will be brighter than a 3W bulb and a 3W bulb will be brighter than a 1W bulb. Unlike a fuse, putting in a smaller unit will not cause it to burn out any sooner. In fact, lower wattage bulbs tend to last longer since they don't get as hot. I'd verify that your bulbs are, in fact, no good. You may just have a blown fuse or a wiring problem.

Here's the thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14058&highlight=shower+curtain

I think the Dynamat would be too thick. I'd put that inside the door on the outside skin. In an earlier post EScanlon mentioned just using a cheap shower curtain liner for the vapor barrier between the door and the inside door panel.

Here's a full shot of my panel which was originally white and later changed to black. I doubt anyone changing colors later on would have used so much black on the back side and certainly not in the strange circular pattern. While I can't explain why it's colored like this it does look like something that would have been done at the factory. Finally, the "Nan" sticker covers at least some of each color indicating that it was put on after the change in color.

You're right, of course. I don't know what made me think it was different. I should have been more careful. :stupid:

Here's some more evidence to support that theory. This panel was originally white but later dyed black. Alan, how would you translate this one? Thanks.

MSA lists different part numbers in the catalog for 2+2. I don't know what the difference really is, however.

The Ad specifically says #2122 but all of the paint codes I'm familiar with are 3 digits. The only really dark color is #907 dark green but it's hard to tell from the picture in the ad. However, it does look dark green to me. http://datsunprojects.org/zpaintcodes/

I was wondering the same thing. He could sell them for a couple of extra dollars with the numbers already on them. I looked around and found a number of rubber stamps but didn't see any place that carried a good collection of fonts. This is the best place I could find for custom fonts and an online preview: http://www.xstamperonline.com I saw some other places that carry the stamps with bands of numbers such as here: http://1stopsquare.com/number.html

I think they were probably stamped by hand with a rubber stamp and black ink. Finding the right number height and proper font is going to be the biggest problem. The first step would be to find someone else with an original 611 sticker and get a high quality photo to go by.

You might want to search around or ask somewhere that specializes in later models such as the ZX. Have you tried http://www.zcar.com/ ?

I hate to say it but with so much interest I think you'll really just have to put it on eBay. I know club members want to get in line and I'm all for helping out members but realistically you'll want to just sell it to the highest bidder. On the other hand, if David and Will and Stephen suddenly lose interest and you decide to practically give it away to a club member I'm interested ...

I think it's just black ink or paint. Here's an example: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7714&size=big&sort=1&cat=all

I think it's just the "Wiring Harness Wrapping Tape". The photo that goes along with that item is what Chris posted. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1368&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=tape

The bracket in question is for a dealer-installed A/C compressor. My car had exactly the same setup originally and I just happened to keep the unit after removing it years ago. The compressor itself is a Borg-Warner unit. I just put it on a scale and it weighs a whopping 32.5 pounds. When I first bought my car one of the first repair jobs was replacing the fuel pump and I remember how that bracket was in the way. It's been so long that I can't remember if I had to remove it or could somehow get the fuel pump out while the A/C bracket was still in place.

Normally the filter would be between the fuel tank and the mechanical fuel pump. You might consider running the output fuel hose from the pump back to the fuel can just to see how much it really pumps when you turn the engine over a few times. You could even remove the pump (just three 3 screws) and operate it by hand.

Please let us know if they work for you. Since several people seem to have found this helpful perhaps we can get the instructions moved to the technical articles group to make them easier to find.

Welcome. If you're up for a little road trip you can swing by the monthly Georgia Z car meeting Tuesday evening. http://www.georgiazclub.com/

A little googling found some interesting information here: http://www.bimmers.com/02/upgrades/engine.html

Do you have a Z mechanic in your area? You might ask here for recommendations ...

I would take the car to someone with experience with these cars for a thorough evaluation. When I bought my car almost 20 years ago I did this and came away with a long list of things that needed work in a priority order. I didn't cross some of them off the list for many years. Someone who knows what they're doing will be able to evaluate your engine and tell you what, if anything, needs to be done to it. If it really is 103K miles and not 203K then it may not require any work. Evaluating the rest of the car will require putting it up on a lift and examining all of the stuff that Enrique mentioned. The suspension components and brake components are obviously important.

I'm not sure if it varies from one year to another but the FSM for a '77 L28 lists 164-178 PSI.

I have re-examined my emblems and they are indeed as RIP260Z describes. Each has a slot on the top, bottom, and towards the rear of the car but not in the front. When I originally compared them I was looking for a taper (back thicker than the front) or different positioning of the pins. It would indeed be possible to install them on the wrong sides without realizing.

The vents actually open towards the top. What you have sounds original.