MikeW

I wonder if it's choke related? It may have nothing to do with running on the highway but rather just the fact that the engine gets fully warmed up.

I'd forgotten that I have a Haynes manual that contains a 280Z wiring diagram. It's really hard to see without a magnifying glass but it does show a blue (L) wire that goes to the resistor and then continues on to the negative terminal.

If it's the same as a 240Z then the black/white wire goes to the positive terminal and the black wire goes to the negative side.

Interesting. I'd never heard of R414B so I did a quick Google search and found this: http://www.refrigerants.com/refrigerants.htm Strangely enough, it looks like all of the varieties cost about $1/pound in quantity. I thought that R12 was extremely expensive to keep people from using it.

This got me curious so I had to look it up. Since I'm in software I certainly have my opinions about Bill and avoid shopping at Walmart (there's a nice SuperTarget a few miles from me). At the end of the day today the market capitalization of Walmart was about $226 billion and Microsoft was about $236 billion. Bill's share of MS is $46.5 billion. The top 5 members of the Walton family are worth a combined $90.7 billion. http://finance.yahoo.com/q/cq?d=v1&s=wmt%2c+msft http://www.forbes.com/static/bill2005/rank.html

Perhaps I was confused. I don't recall seeing a writeup on repairing the high/low switch that is part of the turn signal. I assumed you were referring to what I had written up but obviously you weren't. It is still possible that the problem is in the combination switch. If it's starting to flake out the change in current between high and low might be exacerbating things. That doesn't explain, however, why the headlights seem to alternate in this case. For that particular problem, perhaps the low filament is burned out on one side and the high burned out on the other? Maybe there's a break in the high wire to one light and the low wire to the other? Maybe there's nothing at all wrong with the switch.

Look a few posts before yours.

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=brasso

Speaking for F1 engines and high RPMs, here's a really cool video. Note how responsive the engine is: http://www.smele.com/video/

The download works fine for me in Firefox. In IE when I click on the link it complains. However, in IE I can right click and choose "Save target as ..." it downloads only part of the file as you say. I don't think I did anything wrong with the upload. If the system doesn't allow PDFs or spaces in file names, for example, it shouldn't have accepted it. I've edited the first post and changed the PDF to the same file zipped up and it seems to work fine. Let me know if you're still having problems.

... and a while back I wrote up and posted a writeup with directions and pictures showing how to do this. The old attachment, if you can find it, appears to be broken so I've just uploaded it again to the technical articles forum. Here's the new link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17688

This is an writeup I posted a while back in a regular thread but it should really be here in the articles forum. Edit: changed attachment from pdf to zipped pdf. Repairing 240Z combination.zip

If the battery really is charged then it sounds like the starter solenoid is sticking.

Are you saying that once you accidentally go past 30k between changes you should never change the fluid again, ever? This doesn't make sense to me ...

While I agree with everyone who's suggested finding an experienced welder to help - you might consider trying to rent the equipment instead of buying it outright. That would cost less and let you get a feel for whether or not welding is for you.

This may be perfectly normal. If the battery needs charging the needle will jump way up when driving and drop back down at idle.

You're putting a crazy amount of work into that project. Perhaps you belong on the "Group W" bench. It's funny how we, me included, like to pick apart these eBay cars. The higher the price the worse we get. It really does look like a nice car although I'd never buy a car like that without seeing it in person.

Very cool. Is there a way to determine how much rust was removed such as using the weight before and after?

As the supply of NOS dashes rapidly dwindles the price is just going to keep going up. I fully expect to see $2000 soon. My concern with these, however, is that they're 30+ year old dashes made of the same inferior materials that caused all of the rest of ours to crack. I'd really hate to drop $2000 on a dash and have it start cracking soon thereafter. A lot has been said about what products should be used to protect the dash. The consensus seems to be to avoid Armor-all type silicon products at all costs although others swear by them. I had my dash restored and am happy with that decision. I know that the modern vinyl used will not be a problem.

The original material for this is a very thin foil that seems like a more modern aluminized mylar. I ended up using 3/8" wide piece of metal tape and polishing it before I applied it. Earlier I tried something more plastic but it wouldn't hold the tight radius required.

I don't think there's a definitive answer to this. It's really going to vary according to the part. I'm specifically thinking of items that are supposed to be replaced like tires, oil filters, windshield wiper blades, batteries, etc. Are you really going to go with a Nissan battery? When it's something that's easily replaced later I don't think it really matters.

There must be something blocking it. The carriage bolts that hold the bottom track to the seat support can only go one place in the track as do the bolts that attach the track to the seat. The holes for all 8 bolts (per seat) are square and the bolts themselves are actually pressed in tight so you might not have even removed them. The holes in the floor support and the seat itself don't provide for any adjustment either. There's only one hole for each bolt. I did notice that my tracks were kind of tight unless I sprayed them with some white lithium grease. That made a huge difference. Also, you'll be able to easily see if the seat can go all the way in each direction as there are clear rectangular slots in the track for the seat adjustment lever mechanism.

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/decals.html

Except for the radio ... I don't know about the early AM-only unit but the AM/FM made by Hitachi has transistors and even has a single integrated circuit.

He actually did get mentioned here in the US during the live television broadcast. Unfortunately it was only because the media was busy interviewing Russell Crowe who was at the race ...