MikeW

Either the strange extra plate under the gas cap neck or the fact that he's wearing flip-flops while working on the car.

I guess so because I've done that myself. I've even got the mushroomed pin on a shelf in my office to prove it. When I think of this category I tend to first go with wiring problems and improperly used Bondo. While I've never knowingly butchered any of my wiring I do admit to putting some Bondo on my car 20 years ago when I was 18 and didn't know any better. It's since been replaced by properly welded patch panels.

What about CO: CURRENT OWNER DUMBASSERY?

Palm trees in Pennsylvania?

At least you now know where on the pulley the notch will be since it will have close proximity to the pointer. Once you find it I suggest putting some white paint on it. If the engine is currently running you can use a timing light to help find the notch as it will certainly be within the range.

What size wheels and tires are you running?

There should be certainly at least one mark. On my 240Z there are multiple notches on the crank pulley and a single timing pointer. I believe that on later cars there is a single notch on the pulley and a timing pointer that has multiple markings in 5 degree increments. Can you even find the pointer? Do you have a factory service manual or even an aftermarket manual?

I first saw them in Zurich in 2000. My wife and I thought they were interesting so I took a picture of her standing next to one. I can't determine when the first production vehicles were made. The history section here does not have enough detail: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_(automobile)

Gary, those URLs don't work. You might need to try them again.

I think it will look very clean the way you've done it. Keep in mind that once the outer fender is on and a wheel is in place it won't stand out at all.

Sorry, I meant to reply earlier and forgot. As far as I know all 240Z's came with lap and shoulder belts. The earlier belts were adjustable but not retracting. Around 9/71 pockets were added to the floorboards behind the seats to accept a retracting spool for the lap portion only. These showed up later in the 1972 model year. My car came with the pockets but with rubber plugs in the extra bolt holes. Later models (260 or 280?) came with retracting shoulder belts as well and some people have retrofitted those to earlier cars. I don't know of anywhere to buy OEM seatbelts. Courtesy Nissan lists these: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=H6830-S30 but they don't look original to me and they appear to be out of stock anyhow. The only belts that MSA shows are those that you've already mentioned: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PIC06 Finally, one option is to get the original belts restored. I've heard that these people do good work but haven't used them: http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/

Do you even need a special tool for this? http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20010801ha.html#

I think it may be getting enough fuel to make it rev but not when under load. I'd first check the condition of the fuel filter.

Yep. That and lawn edging from Home Depot attached with rivets for ground effects. Now who in their right mind would do that ... ?

No, actually Army (special forces) In that case you don't even need the GTO kit as your 280Z is unique enough already. Good luck with the project. Post some pictures to your gallery if you get the opportunity.

Wecome to the group. You're probably the first member living in Grenada. Are you aware of any other early Z cars there? I've never been there although I knew some people who visited briefly back in 1983.

I'll have to try that. I had given up on fixing it and started a project to install a cheap quartz movement. I gave up on that as well when I couldn't use the original hands and had difficultly fabricating some that looked right - glow in the dark paint and all. :dead:

Be sure to look at all of the pictures. This car covers everything mentioned so far and more ... http://www.ricecop.com/mirror/ebay_civic.htm

It looks like he already knew that. I agree; excellent writeup. I wish that my clock (9/71) wasn't mechanical since I didn't have much luck fixing it going the sewing machine oil route.

I don't know how much the timing might be off; it may well be fine. The point is that you should make sure that the timing is right, the points and valves are adjusted, etc., before messing with the carbs.

Did you set the timing first?

Uni-syn: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/TE/60-9965

The float cover gasket is not important. If the needle valve gets stuck the bowl will fill up and the fuel will leak out. With a gasket in place it will go through the hose to the air cleaner where it will puddle up and leak out.

I think you should ask whoever you bought the paint from. Every paint is different. I didn't think you would sand the base coat or even between clear coats. I thought the only sanding needed was after the final clear coat and only then after the paint has thoroughly cured and settled out. I left my car in the sun for a couple of weeks before doing any sanding.

It looks to me like the pictures were actually taken at the car wash.