MikeW

At least they cut down some of the weeds around the car. On the other hand, one of the rocks holding the sunroof closed has gone missing.

I wonder if it's possible to install this using the standard rheostat location and knob? It looks like their controller has an on/off switch. Why would you need that?

Do your backup-lights work?

The previous thread was about two wires that come through the firewall in that vicinity and go down to the automatic transmission. Because of the length required to reach the transmission they are long enough to reach the brake booster/wiper motor on the driver's side if someone chose to route them that way after swapping to a manual transmission.

See if this thread helps: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23696

For whatever reason yours is clearer than mine. That part number actually exists and it's amazingly inexpensive: http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=28836E4100

I'm afraid I can't answer "what's normal" but what if your clear coat is not "normal"? You might be safer searching the web for an online spec sheet. You might also post exactly what you're using here in case someone else is familiar with it.

I tried to get the part numbers off of the club CD but they're hard to read. You can order parts from www.nissanparts.cc but the wiper motor cover either doesn't show up or I can't read the number properly. I've attached a picture; good luck. The RH air horn is available 62590-E4101, but not the left. While I haven't tried them yet one of my local Nissan dealers is now selling parts online at http://www.nissanpart4u.com. They also show the above for less.

As a temporary fix until I get the real thing I simply went to the local auto parts place and purchased the smallest diameter fuel hose they had. $1.25 for about 2 feet. MSA was going to charge $40 plus another $30 or so for FedEx Saturday delivery. The inside diameter is perfect but the outside is too big for the existing hose clamps. It survived a 10 mile test drive without any clamps. After all, there's no pressure in this hose. In fact, it's actually under vacuum as the low pressure through the venturi sucks the fuel from the bowl. The biggest problem with the temporary fix is that it's probably not flexible enough for when the choke is used. Until it gets cold again I'm probably safe. I can always carry the extra foot and a half in the car. Also, I just realized what happened. About 8 years ago I made an attempt at getting the car running after sitting for many years. With the SU video in hand I completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt the carbs. I used the cheap rebuild kit, probably purchased from the local auto parts place. Since the kit included the fuel hoses I went ahead and replaced them. I got the car running but it vibrated so much on the road that I gave up on it for several more years. When I got the urge again several years ago the cheap rebuild kit hoses were already cracked so I put the original hoses back on. At that point I got the car running enough to drive, vibrations and all, to my mechanic where I left the car for about 6 months for a complete mechanical/suspension overhaul. Fast forward to the present: I hadn't cranked it for a couple of months when I decided to go for a drive yesterday. Sitting for so long obviously caused them to dry out and crack. Lesson learned: drive the car often; sitting still is bad.

I just got my 3 day super ticket in the mail. I'll see you there.

It looks like I can no longer edit my post but I meant to add that NissanParts says "usually ships in 4-10 business days" and I really need this for driving to the Mitty next week. I'd therefore want someone to FedEx them to me.

I'm suddenly in need of the fuel pipes that go from the float bowls to the carbs on my round-top 72 240Z. I believe what I have on there is from a cheap rebuild kit from about 10 years ago. The line to the front carb has cracked and is leaking. I'm sure the rear carb line won't last either so I need a pair of them. The parts CD lists this as 16356-25610 and NissanParts.cc lists them for $14.63 each. That seems like a lot for a 3 inch piece of rubber hose but as I found out the cheap stuff is no good. I couldn't find this specific part on ZTherapy's master price list but perhaps I don't know the proper terminology. MSA lists the fuel line at $19.20 and I don't even know if that's a genuine part. Black Dragon shows a whole rebuild kit for $19.95 so obviously I don't want that. Any ideas?

http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=25230N4300

Welcome to the club. I hate to break it to you but the flares and wing are most certainly not "stock". A previous owner added them.

The brake light also comes on when there's an imbalance detected in the braking system between the front and rear brakes. This could be from low fluid. I suppose you could verify that this is the problem by temporarily unplugging the lead from the sensor and see if the light only comes on when the handle is up.

The 1973 combination switch can be identified by the extra position on the wipers for the intermittent mode. In other words there are three white dots instead of the previous two for low and high speed. Because of the extra setting the connector has nine pins (3x3) instead of the previous 8 (2x4). I know this because I have a very nice 1973 switch that I bought for my '72 not knowing that there was a difference. It's a shame because it looks like it's brand new. I one point I thought about adapting it.

It seems to me like your decision might be tainted by the perception of getting the BMW at a really good price. Perhaps you think it's too good to pass up. I'd have to ask why it's being sold at that price? Unless the seller is a friend or family member I'd proceed with caution. I'd hate for you to lose your 280Z only to end up with a car with problems.

Sorry, I was going to provide information about how you could get yours repaired but since you need a new switch I'm afraid I don't know where you can get one. They are increasing difficult to find.

Is yours missing or just not working?

Are you referring to the Rain-X anti-fog product? I certainly didn't mean to imply that regular Rain-X could or should be used on the inside. Like I said I've never used one of the anti-fog products.

On modern cars running the defroster - even in the winter time with the heat on full - actually turns on the air conditioning compressor. This has the effect of dehumidifying the air before it comes out the vents. This drier air is much more effective at removing fog from the inside of the windshield. Warmer air should work better than cooler air because when the air expands it can absorb more moisture. This is how a hair dryer works. Unfortunately for those of us in warm humid environments there's not a whole lot you can do. With it raining hard there's 100% humidity and you've got your windows rolled up to keep the rain out so just breathing in the car tends to fog things up even more. If you don't have A/C there's not much more you can do. There are commercial products (like Rain-X but for the inside) that supposedly help with fogging. I've never tried one of those so I can't comment on how well they work or if your glass gets addicted. When Rain-X starts to wear off things are actually worse than not having any at all so once you start using it you have to keep using it.

Apparently the driver is in critical condition with head injuries while the passenger, his girlfriend, walked away: http://www.click2houston.com/news/11693999/detail.html

How appropriate that there's a 30MPH speed limit sign in the first picture. Based on the fact that the car broke in two I wonder what multiple of 30 they were actually traveling?

Here are a couple of pictures of Scott from ZDaysZ where he won best of show. http://www.zdayz.com/Images/2006/awards/DSC_6742%20copy.jpg http://www.zdayz.com/Images/2006/awards/DSC_6414%20copy.jpg This is how he should be remembered; he clearly had a passion for his cars.

I polished mine several years ago and they still look fairly good. I don't think they've degraded all that much. Perhaps it's because the car is always garaged and not driven very much. One thing I considered but never followed through on is the POR clear coat product: http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1435/.f Has anyone here actually tried this?