MikeW

Yes, but while driving in hot weather. I'm impressed with your 25 degrees. What was the outside temperature that day?

If it runs fine at higher RPMs I don't see why the fuel pump wouldn't be fine at idle. It seems to me that a failing fuel pump or other fuel delivery (i.e., clogged filter) failure would cause the opposite problem. What is your idle speed? Can you keep it from stalling if you give it just a little gas?

Stephen obviously has far more experience in A/C systems than I do so you should certainly listen to his advice. Strangely enough the factory R12 compressor in my daily driver 240SX failed after about 6 years. I had my regular mechanic replace it with an R134a system at that time and it's been blowing 40 degree F air for the last 11 years. One thing to consider with A/C in a 240Z is the effect of the blower and duct work. It really doesn't move much air. You'd probably do well with the Honda blower motor upgrade in addition to a new A/C system.

All of the suggestions I've seen involve covering the strip with some sort of chrome foil, either a metal tape or something like mylar. There have been previous discussions here about this very topic. A search should turn up plenty of results. EScanlon at one point hinted that he had a solution but I never saw it.

I wouldn't call it sloppy if you spent your time visiting cathedrals and such as those truly are 'sites'.

Based on your picture I think you meant "sights", not "sites".

Doesn't this depend on how much power is lost in the transmission/u-joints/differential and possibly drain from components like the alternator, etc.? Those numbers would certainly vary depending on which components your car has installed.

You're pictures are likely too large. I believe the size limit is 1 MB and 1280x1024 for JPG files.

I talked to the owner of that car and it looked to be in nice shape. I seem to recall that he was hoping to get somewhere between 10 and 12 but it looks like it didn't work out for him: http://www.harperauctionandrealty.com/pastauctionstownmtn.html

I hope you labeled everything. If not do it now while things are still fresh in your mind. I'd also consider cleaning everything that has 30+ years of dust and grime such as everything related to the fresh air system like the ducts and blower and housing.

That's strange; I don't recall having any trouble with getting to connectors on my '72 and it had the remnants of dealer-installed A/C when I removed the dash. Perhaps the factory A/C is a lot more obtrusive. Can you post some pictures showing what you're up against?

Perhaps you missed #4 which admittedly is not shown in bold like the other 3 ...

In the US the cars evolved over time. Changes were made to reduce emissions and improve safety in crashes. The improved emissions led to lower performance as did the extra weight of bigger bumpers and body reinforcements. Because of these factors the engine displacement was increased from 2.4 liters to 2.6 liters for the 260Z in 1974 and to 2.8 liters for the 280Z in 1975. Despite the extra horsepower from the bigger engines performance wasn't quite up to the earlier standard which is a big reason why the earlier cars are more desirable. Another reason is that people like the appearance of the smaller bumpers even if they aren't as safe. There were many small refinements throughout the years, often in the middle of a model year. I don't know of a comprehensive list of changes for all years.

Loose battery cable? Sometimes if there's a bad connection or corrosion on the connector putting a heavy load (i.e., the starter) on the connection it will cause it to not work at all.

While I agree that properly tuned carbs will help with the exhaust smell my concern is that making it smell better might lead to a false sense of security if the exhaust is still getting in the car. Think of the unburned fuel like the rotten egg smell added to natural gas; it's lets you know you've got a leak. Carbon monoxide has no smell so that may still be getting in.

While I can't answer your specific question you might find this engine calculator useful: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292&highlight=L6

That's exactly what I did; it took just a couple of minutes. The screws in question are supposedly for "theft protection".

Even the early 260 bumpers would be different than those from a '72. For '73 the bumpers were mounted differently and stick out from the body slightly more. I don't know if '73 bumpers are the same as early '74 bumpers but neither are right for a '72.

Welcome. What year is your 240Z? Earlier models came with plastic tool bins that mounted to the vertical surface behind the seats. Later models have compartments with hinged lids under the carpet.

See the first post in this thread ...

Consider yourself lucky. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13129&highlight=james+burgess

The rear passenger seat belts in my 240SX have this same design. It was constantly getting detached when my son was riding back there. I "fixed" this problem by threading a small bolt and nut through the elongated hole after attaching the shoulder belt portion such that the two can no longer come apart accidentally.

At what RPM does it ping in 3rd? Since Arne's engine is different than mine I suppose you should consult the factory service manual for your particular model. For mine, 1972 L24 with twin SUs and an 8.8:1 compression ratio the FSM specifies "more than 95" for octane. Where I live I can only buy 87, 91, or 93. It also specifies with emission control to use "91 (low lead)". I mostly use 87 and never notice pinging.

High octane is only required if the compression ratio is high enough that the engine would pre-detonate (ping) otherwise. For a stock engine regular should be fine.

According to Alan Thomas in a thread from long ago the true 432 grille part numbers are 62300-E4101 and 62300-E7200 for the 432R. I can't find those parts but Courtesy used to offer 62300-N3000: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=62300-N3000&Category_Code= which is still available from here for $134: http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=62300N3000 http://www.nissanpart4u.com shows it for $130.87. I can't link directly to their page so you'll have to search by part number. Here's the original thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8923