MikeW

Here's a new edition that I hadn't seen posted here yet. For $0.97 I couldn't resist.

Who needs a map when you have Google: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&hl=en&geocode=&saddr=Knoxville,+TN&daddr=smyrna,+tn

I find it strange that someone who claims to know nearly nothing about what they're selling would offer a buy-it-now price. In other words, if I thought I had something that might be rare and valuable I'd be hoping that it would go for a lot of money and wouldn't want to sell myself short.

Another good place to look is up under the dash near the top of the firewall. All but a complete refresh/restore will ignore that area.

This would be a good thing to include in the club DVD that Will (hls30.com) has been working on.

The easiest way is from the back side of the lights through the wheel well. Just turn the wheels all the way to one side for easy access. Be careful, however, as the fasteners may have gotten rusty over time. Be aware that the stock Z wiring can't really handle high wattage bulbs. For that you should add relays to avoid having the higher current going through the stock wires and headlight switch.

Alternatively you can use an "advance" timing light. This allows you to read the degrees from the light instead of the scale which allows for more precision. For instance, you can set the timing light for 35 degrees and then twist the distributor until the pointer points to the biggest notch. You can also adjust the light until the pointer shows zero and then read your current timing from the light.

You certainly could but it looks like it would cost over $200 US just for the shipping. You can get a shipping quote online at http://www.ups.com Hopefully can find one locally or perhaps in Australia.

One option is to get a clear fuel filter which will help you determine if it truly is getting clogged up with debris from the tank. If you have SU carbs there's also a filter at each carb that could be a problem. Another possibility with SUs is that the needle valves in the float bowls can get stuck in the closed position. Finally, even though the tank itself may not be the problem - I'd hope that it would last 8 months - it's possible that there's debris coming from of the fuel lines themselves.

Based on the wet pavement and debris on the ground I'd say that was a serious storm.

I have the same mirrors but I had to modify the passenger side mirror a bit to make it even close to useful. It wouldn't adjust far enough without using my Dremel tool to make a notch in the housing.

Of course you can. However, you have to consider your time and effort. It takes time to disassemble a car. Even though you'd end up charging people for shipping and packaging there's still the effort of advertising even if it's just posting stuff on eBay. Unless you can set quite a few parts from a specific car you may find that it's more trouble than it's worth.

Both this and the link that Will posted were take from this magazine: Sports Car International Aug/Sept 1997 Only the browser window title shows the reference to the magazine.

Wow; they had to cut away the entire transmission tunnel just to get the transmission to fit.

Strange; I've never see a 240Z with the battery not parallel to the firewall.

If you're trying to match the original color then you might consider the gray paint from Classic Datsun Motorsports: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Direct link to page with paint can: http://www.classicdatsun.com/new/240_misc-parts.html

Unfortunately I don't think you can expect to get back any new money you put into it at this point with the possible exception of money spent cleaning it up and detailing it. You'll certainly not be able to recover the complete cost of a new paint job. Anyone buying a car like this will expect to have their own work to do so my vote would be to simply try to sell it as-is.

Mull is a member here and has produced a bunch of phenomenal videos of his restoration.

Assuming you have room for it, yes, I'd say that's a good buy. The 15K is more likely 115K or 215K but for $300 you could always part it out. When you say "no rust on the body" I hope you're including areas of the body like the battery tray, frame rails, floorboards, etc. Otherwise if there's a lot of rust in those areas it might not be worth restoring.

At a recent car show a very-original 240Z had something I'd never seen or heard of before: a hand written tag made of balsa wood that was apparently hanging from the rear-view mirror when the car was originally delivered. The tag contains the VIN as well as the color code. Some people claimed that these were used during shipping and should have been discarded at the port or by the dealer. I know that some of you are already familiar with this particular car but I thought I'd throw it out here for further discussion. I'm hoping that some of our resident historians will see this and be able to shed some light onto it.

Here are a couple of shots that should make it more obvious.

Yes. There should be a small "knob" on the shoulder portion that fits in the slot. I can take some pictures when I get home if needed.

I'm assuming you're wondering how the shoulder belt portion connects to the lap belt. If you're wondering how to fasten the seatbelt then you might be beyond help. There's a slot on the metal "tab" end of the lap belt. You have to kind of move the webbing out of the way to see it. That's where the shoulder portion attaches.

The diagram posted looks to be specific to flat-tops. Perhaps they require a different weight than round-tops?

Are you sure the fuel itself is good? You probably don't want to use fuel that's been sitting in the tank for 9+ months.