munters

No, i have a 2.5 inch so this would fit. Now it does sound nicely deep but i used to have an ansa dual i can not use anymore (i dont want to loose to much power with my nice Engine) and i love the dual look...

Do you know, if i change the rear msa muffler alone with your jdm 2pipe, what the difference is?(i have a Vibrant in the middle)

If this would be a muffler, would it be less raspy? This "raspiness" is holding me back from buying your System. Its to high=annoying for a daily driver.

The endresult with a camera.

Hallo Marl Rebello verkauft ganze kits. (Kolben, Pleuel, Kurbelwelle, Nockenwelle). Rebello sells kits with piston rods, crank and cam.(also everything for your head, or he does the porting and assembling) He strokes the 280 crank. If you buy from him, the price is not much higher then buying yourself, but you know it works. If you wish i can give some more infos.

The Prototype is done the only thing I have to do ist sand down again a bit of the structure you can sort of see in the pics.(Sorry smartphone pics... I have to take a camera to make better pics) The last one is upside down. The measurements are close to the Original Urethan lip. 2cm on the top and 1cm on the bottom. In the final Urethan version I will change the Alu frame. It will have a top and middle bar to be able to change the angle (by bending) of the Lip if I want to. The bottom bar will not be there Next step is building the woodbox to create the mold. It takes time, but it goes somewhere.

Nice work you do there. You mentionned a 1/2inch fine thread at the engine somewhere ypu couldnt find (thermostat case i think). There is not a Single inch thread at the car and metric is easy to find.

Yes, i can send you pics, but you know, im in europe... it would cost a bit to ship. And tomorrow im out of the country for 2 weeks.

I have the original System driven 6000 Miles taken off the car 1987 and stored since then. the the pipe from the manifold to the midle muffler would need a little piece of pipe.

This is exactly my point. The nice dash shape is not preserved. I replaced every screw at my build (less then 10pcs I couldnt find) but reinstalled my cracked dash because of this wrong look.

I agree with the Quality. When I asked them to send me 240 dash pics because the one on internet are not correct, they sent me the same again. I asked them about the shape around the gauges. for me it is not correct. it looks wrong. He reacted like "you are the only one ever complaining". --> this is a clear I give a sh.. what you think and what you want. --> BIG NOGO. So I have to wait for another solution as well.

Ok thanks I will google a bit.

And what kind of vacuumpump is needed?

Thanks for the inputs. I think with the the sturdy alu construction the thickness should be given. The urethane mixing and pooring id also my biggest concern. Is there a "best way" to do it? I finished the frame, now i have to cover it with rubber mats(4mm thick layers) and construct the box for the mold.

Since I found just really expensive Urethane front lips (over 500$) I thought of trying my own. Yesterday I made the first part of the frame I’m going to use for a Prototype mold. Sorry for the bad quality. My idea is to use this to create the molding sample and then use just a top metal inlay to make it rigid when I’m going to pour the Urethane in the mold. The Urethane I’m going to use will be a Shore A75. Does someone have experience and inputs on what I have to look at ? What Problems could I have? Thanks in advance Marcel

With sizeoptimization i will end at 200$ for the preform and 100$ for the production. Now i started with the prototype (made with alu frame and rubber inserts to make the mold) I will see how it will look soon.

To make a Reproduktion the costs are crazy. For the preform arround 600$(all tools included) and then arround 100$ to build it with metall top inside for rigidity. at least i could always make another one when needed. i will search now for better prices to decide what i do.

Your lucky. The only one I found until now was 500EUR Im now on the way to try to make a mold myself to reproduce it.

The urethan Version? Where can you get it?

For me it sounds not correctly bled the back brakes. When you where able to bleed the back your lines are ok. Is the brakepedal hard? How mutch do you have tu push to have it hard? It should be around 2 inches max. If not, when you pump 5 times get it higher? If yes, air in the system. If no, to mutch distance to engage the shoes. When you pump and stay on it, does it go further down? when yes. leak. Try those things and report, before you start to put more work in it.

I kept the Original one and my engine has 272 bhp with it. No heat problems without heat shield and tripple dcoe carbs.

I was asking because of frp pannels. Your shopname is on a frp pricelist. The exhaustlist i know well.

Hello Sean Is your Online-shop down? Facebook is not usable crap for a shop, to look for parts and prices. Thanks Marcel

A bit smaller as well.

Did anyone install this ac/heating Bantam ll ultra compact? Its a bit smaller then the vintage air and has bluetooth remote apps for android/ios. Sounds not bad