Captain Obvious

I'm trying to follow the pea... "This 240Z is offered by the selling dealer in Oklahoma with ... a clean Delaware title." Back when Bill R. bought the damaged car for $100 (in TX?), was it a salvage title? Did the guy he bought from have comp. coverage on it when the tree fell on it and buy it back from the insurance company?

Might just be me, but I get "Error: Unsupported video type or invalid file path."

Zactly. And now, I keep rolling right into Moby Dikk in my own head! I drove around listening to that album so much that I think it was 50% slower than new due to the inevitable 8-track tape stretch.

Glad to help. Thanks to you, I'm much obliged for such a pleasant stay. But now it's time for me to go.

Well that's not good. Do you have another rack you're going to put in, or are you thinking you'll weld that crack up and reuse that rack?

I'm not a ZCCA judge, but that does not sound right to me. Since that was a documented dealer modification (not quite a "recall"), I would expect that to be accepted as "normal" when being evaluated. I would hope that cars that had those mods would be considered totally equal to cars which had not. But, of course... My opinion doesn't mean squat.

The holes at the bottom of the 72 carbs are for hot coolant to be pumped through the carbs to warm up the nozzles. You can put 72 carbs on earlier manifolds without having to do anything else special to accommodate those holes. Just slap 'em on. Plug the holes on the carbs if you don't want wasps to build nests in there, but other than that, nothing. Putting earlier carbs on the 72 manifolds are a little more involved, but I don't think that's what you're asking, right? And in the pic with the 72 manifolds, I can see that the heating water lines aren't hooked up either, so it wouldn't really matter. Yes, I'm rambling. Did I answer your question?

Haha!!!

Naaaa. I would have said it like this. Remember to stop after the first 10 miles and re-torque the lug nuts when replacing studs. Completely different.

Oh, sorry. I thought you had already torn the rack down and cleaned everything up. Yeah, you have to get all that old crusty plastic grease out of there. That could certainly be an issue. Hopefully it's that simple! Clean that old stuff out and replace with fresh. Keep us posted!!

I see two things potentially wrong... First is that the floor jack appears like it could be pushing inward on the rotor and helping limit the natural outward movement of the hub as the suspension tries to move upward. Might be better to rotate the floor jack ninety degrees so the little wheels on it will allow it to move easier inward and outward with respect to the center of the car. The second thing? I can't see the right side front wheel but I suspect it's hanging free? If that's the case, then your sway bar (roll bar, anti-sway bar, etc) is fighting you. Just like it's supposed to do. In operation, the sway bar tries to keep the levels of the two front wheels the same. So if you've got one hanging and the other being pushed up by a jack, you're twisting the torsion spring that is your sway bar. You might try temporarily disconnecting the sway bar. Or better yet... Just lower both front tires onto a pair of roller bottom moving dollies. That will allow them to squirm to their proper position and then tighten up the transverse link bushing bolts while the suspension is loaded.

Of course I can't tell without actually seeing it with my own two beady eyes, but I don't think that's a crack. It just looks like a casting flaw. See if you can catch a fingernail on it... Does it go in (like a crack), or does it actually protrude out?

Happy birthday!! "I’ll take the soup."

You can narrow the culprit by taking stuff off... You can take the pinion out and see if your still feel it. If you do still feel it with the pinion removed, you can then loosen or completely remove the friction shoe and see what happens.

Haha!!

I can't accept the mantle described above, but I've messed with a steering rack or two. This "notch"... Do you have the friction bushing shoe tightened down when you are sliding the rack back and forth? Do you have the pinion gear installed?

Not far from me is a town named "Devon". Back when Devo first gained popularity, one can imagine what may have happened to some of the (easier to reach) signs along the roads back then. I may or may not know anyone who participated...

Are we not men?

Pics or it didn't happen.

Haha!! My old Alfa had a knob that did that. But making it even worse was that it was a twisty turn style knob. Ten turns or so to actuate, and ten turns to de-actuate. Not the kind of thing you could do quickly. Darwin was driving!

240Znomad, Thanks for the contribution and another data point. Absolutely agree. And that rounded cup on the frame member is exactly why I had my bushings in rounded side towards the cup at first. Then I kept seeing pics of other people's bushings and they were always the other way, so I switched mine. (Despite the fact that it makes engineering sense to me to put them in the other way.) So I'm not saying it makes sense. I'm just saying that's how I always see them. In reality it probably doesn't matter much. As long as it doesn't cause a caster change or cause the T/C rod to bind during normal movement, then the orientation probably doesn't matter much at all.

That's interesting. First time I've seen anyone actually recommend a direction in print. Although.... They also say the tension rods are designed with a right an a left which is incorrect. So the accuracy of the source is in question. And... If you look at the pic, it sure LOOKS like they have the thicker rubber section next to the washer, not the body: So now that the waters are really muddy? I did a little searching on the forum and here's what I came up with. This guy had bushings with the thinner section towards the body like my 260: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44860-my-two-swiss-s30z-fairlady-restoration-build-thread/?page=18&tab=comments#comment-541674 This guy had one bushing each direction (which is clearly a mistake): https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/47472-uhm-i-think-thats-supposed-to-be-attached/

I don't have any technical input at this time, but... @Mike, Why is this thread in the technical articles section and "promoted to the knowledge base" category? Did I miss some fantastic technical solution above or something? Home  Forums  CLASSIC ZCAR CLUB  Technical Articles  Promoted to Knowledge Base  Datsun starts but only runs when key is in a certain spot

Yeah, let me know what you come up with for a source. I do think there has been discussion about the bushing orientation in the past and I think I was involved, but it's tough when you can't even find your own stuff. In the meantime, I dug up some more pics. This is what I believe is the correct orientation for the rubber bushings: And I based that off these old bushings pulled off a 260Z and pictures from other peoples cars. I'm relatively confident that they were original factory and they were installed like this: Another shot where you can see the indent from the convex side of the washers on the rubber side: Sample size of one, but that's all I got.

The washer orientation seemed odd to me too at first, but I accepted it when I likened it to shock absorbers and sway bar bushing washers. They use the bushings and washers as a kind of spherical bearing because you want the shaft to be able to move in all directions. Putting the convex domed side inward helps facilitate that and makes it operate spherically. Oh, and I believe the rounded side of the rubber bushings should be outboard too... Sounds like you may have yours backwards. That one also seems counter-intuitive, and the pics in the manuals are not good enough to be definitive, but I've been into a couple cars now where I was pretty sure the bushings were original and they were installed with the smaller section towards the body and the thicker rounded section towards the washers. When I get a chance, I will dig up some pics of crusty cracked (but original) T/C rod bushings. The pic I posted above is (what I believe to be) the proper orientation of everything. If you're running rubber on both sides, just mirror the rear rubber bushing to the front.