Captain Obvious

Well that's an even better story! Hope it has a happy ending, and I'm sure we're all happy help more where we can!

Yeah, my test was just proof of concept to evaluate the evenness of the lighting. My conclusion was that if you could control the brightness down to a reasonable level, the light dispersion was very good. That's about as far as I went with it. I'm running a PWM dimmer as well, but it drops out at about 5-10% and even at that low percentage brightness, many LEDs are brighter than I want to run my dash lights. I have considered changing the map light over to a strip inside however. I think that would work really well. I'm currently running something from SBL in there and I'm pleased with it, but if I ever go back in, I may change it over to a portion of that light strip.

Cool. Let us know how that grommet fits. I like the looks of that. Looks like silicone instead of rubber? Don't remember... What year are you working on?

I measured the OEM inner tie rod ends I have here and both sides came in at .545 (13.84mm) major diameter on the threads. So using that as a data set of three, it sounds like your left side is original and your right side has been replaced. The hard part is doing this with just words. A "little bit" of wiggle to one person can be a whole lot to another. Depends on how much wiggle you can tolerate.

My pleasure and hope you get it figured out soon. Here's to hoping it's as simple as a defective fuel pump. Neat story, but out of curiosity, is the rust bucket "beyond restoration" the car you're working on getting running, or was that a second car included with your car as a parts donor?

Well that's not good. Regardless if the diaphragm looks OK or not, something is leaking there and it either needs to be addressed or replaced. Sucks that something like that would happen with a new pump. Is it a new-new pump, or a new-old stock pump? In any event, a ruptured or leaking diaphragm there could account for both issues. The leak and the lack of function. I guess it's conceivable that a stuck closed output side check valve could allow the pump to suck in a charge from the inlet side, but then force that charge out of a hard to see, small hole in the diaphragm. And, yes, change the oil. You don't know how much went down there.

What's the plan for the grommet? Does that fit the heater or A/C lines on the firewall? If so, where did you get it?

Cool. Looks like you might have turned one up! Snorkel.

Yikes! Those are twice as bright as what I already tried!! Steve... You know you want the headlights facing FORWARD, not towards the driver, right?

Probably reminds you of sunset on your distant home planet.

Haha! Sorry for the diversion and I hope you find what you're looking for.

I've got a pair of old floppy OEM inner tie rods here. When I get a chance, I'll measure the threads when I get a chance and let you know what I find.

I don't have a spare (or a lead on one), but I just wanted to say "snorkel". It's a fun word. Sorry.

narth327, I'm not sure I ever posted these, but I messed with those light strips a couple years ago as well. I'm not sure my retinas will ever recover!

Me too. I didn't want halos around the gauges. I just wanted even brightness and maybe just a little brighter than stock. I reloaded a couple (crappy camera) pics of mine: Obey the speedo with no dead spot!!

Zactly. In the end, I don't care how far the float is from the lid is when things are dry. In the end, I only care about where the fuel level is when things are wet.

Threads are a funny thing... They go from "not going together at all" to "loose and sloppy" in just a couple thousandths. 13.65 mm major diameter is pretty sloppy for a 14 mm thread. The 13.8 sounds much better, but if both of them feel about the same when threaded into the female thread, then the female is sloppy as well? So I know you replaced the right outer once already... Can you tell if either of the outers are OEM or are they all aftermarket? You said the left felt fine. Can you tell if the left components are factory and maybe better quality than the aftermarket stuff?

And that should STILL only be used as a preliminary set-up method. A direct verification of the level is the only way to be sure, and is the gold standard for accuracy.

What do you mean by this? If you're saying that fuel came out of the back of the pump and ran down into the crankcase, then you've obviously got a bad diaphragm in the pump. That would explain both the lack of fuel, and the oil in the gas. Somehow, I don't think that's what you meant, but it's my job to check.

I'm no carb expert, but I believe that flipping the lid upside down and measuring the position of the float is to be used as a preliminary "ballpark" setting only. Just to get you "on scale". It only has a little bearing on exactly where the fuel level will end up because the final level is dependent on other factors such as the design of the needle valve. A direct measurement of the dependent variable is always preferred when compared to an indirect "inferred" relationship. Put simply: Q - How do you get the fuel level set correctly? A - Check the fuel level and adjust the float tang accordingly. So I suggest that the mechanical measurement of the float position with the lid upside down is a good way to start, but after you have done that (just once), you should always refer to a direct measurement using the clear tube method after that. If you get lucky and happen to hit the target level on the first try using only that mechanical method, then that's excellent! But just don't count on it!

Yeah, without a "go/no-go" thread gauge for the female thread, about the only thing you can easily do is measure the major diameter of the male thread. So check them with your digital caliper, and see what you find. You should get something a small nominal amount lower than the tread spec. I don't know offhand what thread they used there, but for example, a 12mm thread should measure something a little less than 12mm OD. Couple thousandths less (like maybe 5-7?). If it's more than maybe fifteen thousandths less than spec, then it's noteworthy. You can check the left side too for comparison, assuming you have some threads exposed beyond the lock nut. All this problem is on the right side, correct? That's the side with the right hand (normal) thread, correct?

About the only thing you could easily do is measure the outside diameter of the threads. At least that way, you could tell what metric size they are. If you look into the threaded hole in the outer tie rod end, do the threads look OK? I mean it's not like some PO ordered the wrong side (threads backwards) and ran a tap into the hole to "fix" it and make it sorta work? Nothing stupid like that?

Just like the mechanic said.... "Didn't do it when I had it."

I used needle nosed vice-grips stabilized with masking tape: The rubber bands must have been someone else.

Awesome! I'd love to make a pilgrimage to his shop sometime.