hr369

Here is the zx evap in the 280z box. I measured about 3" would have to be added to the height of the evap box. That's simple just cut the top off and splice in some black plastic with fiberglass. However, there could be problems with adding 3" to the height. ihave to take a look at some more pics of inside the dashboard to see what it would interfere with. About 1/4" would also have to be added the width too. It's a bit too tight or you might be able to get away with removing a little bit of the foam rubber on each side of the evap. You could also try using the 280zx evap case (last 2 pics) in the 240z. Maybe better fitting ductwork? choose files... Click to choose files

Yes, good idea. The zx evap is on the left. The profile is thinner which may help in fitting it behind the dashboard better. I've researched this before by tring to fit it inside a modified 280z evap case. Too tall as you can see. Probably a better idea is to get a zx evap case, I don't have one, Best to get a pre o-ring zx evap. The 79-81 i believe is flare fitting. I have the o-ring version in pic.

How can you see the pictures still? He pulled the auciton. You are correct. Tuning is on the left on some RHD cars. I say some because i'm sure there is some obscure anomaly out there that i'm not aware of.

Really like how this miata system appears to fit. Other issues are, can the 240z cable system be adapted to it and how does it fit with a 240z dash over it? And, can you integrate the fresh air duct in the cowl into the fan housing? Vintage air has you block this off for their install. It's nice to have a little outside air coming in if you've got an exhaust leak and how many of these cars have one of those?

I get really leery when ONE kit fits a whole bunch of different cars. Reminds me of JC whitney. It's not clear what kind of evap they tie into. O-ring zx or flare fitting? or no fitting on the evap side of the hose set? Nostalgic air sells a universal sanden mount for 50$ and a sanden compressor can be had for a couple hundred. Gotta be careful you don't get a chinese knockoff nowdays. Kits fit 1971 1972 1973 Datsun 240Z 6 cylinder 2.4 liter 1974 Datsun 260Z 6 cylinder 2.4 liter 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 280Z 6 cylinder 2.4 liter 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 280ZX

Well for starters, the 95 sentra compressor is serpentine and the compressor mounts look really different. I seem to remember someone putting in a 280z system into their 240z. Getting the evap to fit is the hardest part. Hybridz search perhaps. He integrated the controls into the 240z which is more work than most people want to do. Just give me a simple on/off switch. You either need a/c or you don't, right? We don't need no fancy mixing valves or vacuum bottles.... cheapest and least work is to cobble together a frankenstein system. A used hitachi compressor and mount off a 280z-x, new parallel condenser and a used ARA 240z evap with ARA on/off switch with all new custom hoses. Check out a video of a guy installing a vintage air evap. Notice he drilled holes up into the cowl where water can leak through. He also had to fab a bracket for the bottom. It's not a plug n play system. https://youtu.be/QDksgw4MVIo

Are you kidding me? 58k??? Now I could see that price possibly for #13 because it's all original and unrestored but come on, 58k for that car?

You are a very luck guy. That could have easily been much worse. Left side chest level where the heart is. The impact ripped the quarter away from the rocker. Was there a previous repair in that area? I feel a little bit safer in a 280 with that steel reinforcement bar in the door but a speeding suv into our lightweight 240,280 doors is a very bad place to be hit.

I meant right. Yea, far from museum piece for sure.

Any guestimates on final sale price? It has its flaws but it looks like its been well taken care of. Left side floorboard look like rust holes? I guestimate $24,000 ebay link

Some companies have an authorized installer and anyone else installing their system will void the warranty on the parts. You might want to clarify that if you're concerned about a warranty.

I think stock location of emblems looks best. It's probably because nobody has any accurate measurements of where there're supposed to go. Usually when a car sells that fast it's underpriced. Usually... Why don't you offer to buy it from the new owner? With zero to negative interest rates there, these cars are a good place to keep ¥. Those wheel chocks look like they have never moved since new with that thick layer of dust. There looks to be no chipped paint on them also. Much better idea than that other trade you spoke of. If you need a place to store it, my garage is available and you can drive it year round here.

Got this in a box of fairlady parts I bought in Osaka. Nice rare right hand drive headlight switch and turn signal switch. All headlight switch circuits test <1 ohms when closed. Continuity tested turn signal switch and all tested good. Main harness connector has been replaced and is brand new. Free EXPEDITED shipping inside all usa and international please ask for shipping quote. I use usps first class mail for international addresses. This will NOT fit Left Hand Drive z cars. Verify that your wiring connectors are the same as mine before purchasing. The harness plug fits the equivalent USDM year models 10/73- 7/76 260z 280z. $275

Yes aftermarket evap for sure. Hoses go thru the firewall. They put the evap in about the same location as stock was because i remember looking thru the vents and seeing the fins. . It's been 10 years since i pulled mine out but I do remember it being bigger than the factory evap which is a plus. This is my whole system after I pulled it out. 2nd photo is a close up i found on the web. The hoses connect to the evap on the passenger side so i'm thinking it would be feesible to change the hoses out without pulling the dash.

What ever makes alot of smoke will work I'de add a pair of tail light gaskets to the list. Body seam sealer too

Probably don't have party smoke machines in that part of the world but they're great for chasing down leaks if you set it inside the car and go around the car looking for smoke escaping.

ARA/Frigiking is what's in there now and yes a couple grand. When you compare that to new car repairs, its not that bad. I would remind the a/c person how easy these cars are to work on as they write up the work order.

I second that. There are 3 things good about this aftermarket system. 1. sanden sd508 compressor (cheap and good) 2. cheap easy to find dryer 3. easy to find generic expansion valve Missing hose = open system = bad This is the same aftermarket system i removed from mine. The condensers are cheesy and small. Replace that for sure. Replace the compressor, open system = bad for compressor. They're cheap and plentiful. Replace the expansion valve because the system was open for a long time. All new hoses. New generic dryer with fittings that match your new hose fittings. EDIT: The a/c tech probably will recommend a complete new system if the hoses on the inside that go thru the firewall and connect to the evaporator are impossible to change without pulling the dash. The best thing about having a/c in your z, is you can roll up the windows and keep exhaust fumes out if you've got a leak.

Regarding the poor reception of these AM radios, I just got hold of a TM-1081ZB and its sensitivity is zilch. I've noted that on other series 1 radios that the sensitivity was pretty poor also but my latest one is dead. So, I started by replacing one of the RF transistors and got to thinking this radio will need an alignment after replacing any of the RF transistors and I don't have a signal generator to align it. So, I found the guru of AM radio repair on youtube and just sent him my radio for repair. I asked him to please video the repair process because this is a pretty common problem on these old signal seekers. I will post a link to the video on here when he uploads it. So if any of you guys like to tinker on these radios, this may help you in troubleshooting what's wrong and you might be able to repair yours for the cost of a transistor. This should also apply to any first gen s30 hitachi am/fm. The only difference it appears is the location of the transistors on the boards. Stay tuned.

Starting to sound like aftermarket. Rubber hoses with irrigation clamps is the trademark of aftermarket.

It's california datsun. hint hint Hey, Dave, you're in key biscane. You don't need to spin over a really cold engine. Stock is fine for you. You need to get that clock and tail lights installed first anyways.

How long ago did the a/c work? I really enjoy working on my 78 z a/c system because its so easy to get to every part. Thats including the expansion valve which is very easy to get to, unlike many other cars. If i were a a/c pro, i'de jump at the chance of working on something so easy to repair. Car a/c technology really hasn't changed much in the last 40 years so you don't need an old school tech to understand it. There are a couple ways you could do this. The patch and pray method. You could have a shop replace the obvious things first. Then charge with R12 and check for leaks with a leak detector. OR Go thru and fix all of the original system. Personally I like the quality of the factory a/c system. The only problem with using original equipment is the expansion valve is no longer available new. A used one has to be installed if yours is bad/stuck open or closed. I've got a couple used ones if you go that route. I installed a used expansion valve 10 years ago and its still working good and I use my a/c every time I drive it. Even in the winter here in hawaii. You could get a new aftermarket evap core that has a generic expansion valve. That's an additional 300$ part. Dash has to be pulled if you go this route. The a/c compressor is probably oily around the pulley. Thats where the hitachi's like to leak freon. Have a rebuilt one installed and replace the condenser with a new cross-flow condenser. New r134 type rubber hoses have to be fitted for the new condenser so that takes care of the old rubber hoses that needed to be replaced. The condenser is the second area i would suspect a leak from a rock hitting it. Then i'de convert it to r134 gas. The old r12 gas is very expensive. OR Install an all new Vintage Air system. They have to pull the dashboard to put in a new evap core and you're probably looking at about $2000 Too bad Dave WM doesn't live closer. Picture of new crossflow condenser I installed 10 years ago. You could probably fit one thats a little bigger than I got. And lastly, if what you've got for a/c now is aftermarket, remove and replace with Vintage Air.

Kats, I was watching a yahoo auction and a new 432 gas cap sold for about 500 usd. Is there a chain on yours? That sure would ruin my day if I left my 500$ gas cap at the gas station accidentally. I think i remember something about the 432 filler pipe being bigger diameter and the tank is different. The cap does look to be a bigger diameter than a regular 240z.

Looks like a gob of bondo was put over the cracked leaded joint that joins the roof skin to the A pillar. It's caused by the body flexing and is normal. Some people grind all the lead out and weld up the seam to keep it from ever coming back. I tried that on my back 2 roof seams and it's been 2 years and no cracks. Knock on wood. Yes, if water gets in under the weatherstrip, it can rust out the roof lip/seam area. A temporary fix would be to use a flexible sealer like clear silicone to keep the rain out. How are the back 2 roof seams? any cracking? Just out of curiiosity, is there any more bondo in other areas of the roof?

Are you a homicide detective by any chance? Sure is fishy, his last post was right before he went there. Next step is to look at satellite images for shallow graves?