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JDMjunkies.ch

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Everything posted by JDMjunkies.ch

  1. Not even sure yet if i will end up with solex / Mikuni Triple carbs but, when i was ordering some parts from Japan and saw this set of Manuals for 10 bucks i just couldn't resist. It's a set of three Manuals / parts catalogue copies in high quality by Mikuni Kogyo corp and Tokiwa (Mikuni / Solex agent in Japan). This one even features a nice picture of the S20 Engine. Now also figoured out the same seller sells new sets with an additional Manual... Still have to read through it though. quite a bit busy atm and can't find time to study all this stuff thoroughly.
  2. Also depending heavily on the location. in most US-places you can easy find better cars. but in snow- and salt-heavy conditions in a country like switzerland a car like this is still repairable. however don't think you will ever get the investment back over the next years. labour is expensive here too. but if you love it - it's worth it i guess.. Yeah i would definitely take it of the rotiserie for that. as you can see in my picture, the car is standing on a chassis-jig (or whatever you call it) and put on a single-post lift. Not sure who you're referring to. but in my last pic it's a single post lift from my bodyshop, and on top of it is the car complete with a full rolling chassis jig / Dolly. I got it off my rotisserie for serious bodywork. for reasons mentioned above.
  3. THe original air channels may be hard to find These days and probably quite expensive. but this is how my panelbeater repaired mine: Before (cheap patched up ugliness): and then:
  4. Facebook groups can suck. While there are always guys beeing A**holes on the internet, sometimes you really run into nice people that help you with your needs and do that happily as well! Recently i asked around if someone had a RH rear quarter panel in usable shape for sale, so my bodyshop doesn't have to make one from scratch (which is a lot more expensive over here). And a guy called Crow Aries immediately was in. It took a while to get all sorted out, but he even was kind enough to remove the old paint before shipping (didn't even ask for this!). Thank you so much sir! This is the car it was removed from: After some blasting and cleaning: Needs some minor work but still way better than getting this whole panel made from scratch. With this the RH-side of the car's body should be completed soon Oh and he was also kind enough to throw in a hood rod in the package since it appears that i accidentally sold the one i had.. Thanks again sir. Appreciate to deal with you!
  5. JDMjunkies.ch posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    here are some more Pictures of Aerodynamic Testing by Alan Thomas (originally found here: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/236658-1969-nissan-s20-twin-cam-engine-rebuild-7.html#post3352097 ) This time with some scale model cars:
  6. JDMjunkies.ch posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    I think In this topic of "Aerodynamics", the subtitle of above image (from "the fairlady Z story" (by Yutaka Katayama and Yoshihiko Matsuo)) is interesting, because it tells the measured Cd Drag coefficient values from the "Standard" (Cd= 0,4) and the "ZG" (Cd = 0,37) equipped cars: Sorry for the bad Image quality. scanned with some wrong settings, but will do the job
  7. JDMjunkies.ch posted a post in a topic in Open Discussions
    This was actually a joke about the gas fumes always ending up inside the car in Z-cars in the DPAN facebook group.
  8. i guess it's the wrong rubber then. mspeed states it's the "later style" rubber grommet. but yeah, it was just a few bucks so i bought it. @Captain obvious : since it doesn't fit mine. if you're interested, send me a PM, you can get it cheap from me. Cheers
  9. Should fit the heater hoses. but have to check it out. Mainly bought it because it was cheap and fitted into the package. got it at mspeed Japan: http://mspeed-japan.com/product_information.php?category_id=7
  10. You just have to love the days, when this is in your mailbox (or next to it): But let's start in chronological order. On saturday i decided it's time to get rid of the old paint (Part two) of the lately acquired chin spoiler. Since the weak paint stripper (stronger ones are forbidden now in Switzerland). didn't do anything i got out my CSD Disks and that worked pretty well.. Before: And about an hour later: Yesterday the first package then showed up at the door. A set of Dixcel front disks for the OEM Brakes (for use with the MK63 solid type calipers). I decided to go for the optional black painted center-hubs, just for the looks and to prevent the area from surface rust, which is quite common there... And today some more stuff showed up at my door. Pitworks oil filter (mainly bought it because it was cheap and fitted in the same box for free..) The lately released Hayashi oil filler cap. in an awesome packing that only the japanese can do Set of genuine JAF Emblems (not sure if i will put them on the car, but i liked it). will post some details about this in another post... Mspeed firewall rubber grommet Well and a little blingy Z-keychain (From mspeed), because i didn't have anything to put my keys on and it fitted in the package for free.. Set of NOS brake pads. not interested in the pads themselves, but needed the metal-shims, which i messed up from my original set... Then some reading stuff. Japanese Z-story book. looks promising but have to study it first: Japense (later version) Z432-R & 240Z Race & Rallye preparation manual... has lots of technical information about how to prepare the car and some additional information. Nostalgic Hero S30Z only book. Seems to have some interesting cars and information inside as well... Oh and then a beautiful set of old used but restoreable Enkei mag wheels... Unfortunately the Shirt and Wheels are not for me or my project. I just helped a friend get them here. but because they're nice i thought i'd share the pictures anyway
  11. Thanks for your Input. I'll take it with a grain of salt. Meanwhile i've learned that many (especially older) documents are full of mistakes. Even the factory documentation is not 100% correct in some cases but it seemed like it includes a lot of Background Information, normally not found in the official (technical) documents.
  12. Time for another update. I lately stumbled on the Nissan / Datsun USA Technical service bulletin about the change of the hatch window rear defroster lines from Vertical to horizontal: Since i had been wondering why my cars (which were built close together) came with two different types of windows, which i figoured out lately, it cought my interest and i started to look closer. Car 1. SNR: HLS30-56801 came with horizontal lines. Registered in March 1972 Car 2. SNR: HLS30-59660 came with Vertical lines.Registered in May 1972 Strange enough, the SNR of my (European spec) cars are one Digit shorter than the ones mentioned in (American) Service bulletin. Both my cars were built in late 1971, but i assume the date in the Service bulletin is not the production date of change, but the release date of the document. Given the lead time of the cars from production to first registration in switzerland, and the lead time from Production change to the release of the Service bulletin. i guess my two cars, built close together just happend to be around the change. Also it is a prove that there is nothing like a "Series 1" car mentioned often. My "older" car doesn't have the vented hatch / side emblems, but it still came with "old" type window. Service bulletin 231 (1975 introduction of the Datsun 280Z, America) also mentions a 6-digit VIN (HLS30-6digits). So i guess we just got a different vin-Block for european cars? I checked both my stamped serials as well as the VIN-plate. Both my cars only have HLS30-5digits Oh and then got some interesting read from the UK. Race & Rally Magazine, Jan. 1993 It features 16 Pages intresting background information about the Works 240Z rallye cars. Including a variety of side-stories around them. Still have to read through it, but it seems very promising
  13. outstanding work man. love the attention to details!
  14. Dear Kats, thank you so much for this rare insight and information. Really interesting read. As for the topic, i'd like to add a few of my own documents. 1. The swiss 240Z Sales brochure which i got from my good friend Stefan a while ago. These are scans from above original printed sales brochure which he found and donated to me. It was found in an old stock at an ex Datsun, now nissan Dealership. Enjoy the read While the B/W pictures inside are probably some Nissan / Datsun stock photos, the one on the first and last pages (red colored car) show the typical Swiss car with front and rear spoiler, which is also mentionend especially in the text about aerodynamics. Most cars were delivered like that over here. It's a common practice for swiss car import companies (like nissan switzerland) to add parts, which are optional in other markets, as a standard feature to boost "sportiness" of a car, as switzerland has a higher density of sporty cars compared to surrounding countries. It's also interresting to see how they advertised it by explaining the aerodynamics with some details, with it's rallye heritage and with the fact that it was very popular in america. In general the description is very technical. really trying to explain how good and simple the car is. Quite funny when comparing it with todays sales brochures, which is all about emotions and how practical a car is. 2nd: The swiss homologation fiches in french, Which i got from t he swiss car registry office. On a side note, we have four official languages in switzerland (german, french, italian and romanian). So most docuements are available in italien, french an german, while romanian is only for a small part of switzerland which all of them also speak a second official language. What is particulary interresting here is the second page: It says the chassis used for homologation was HLS30-00243 and the document was released on 6. May 1970. in the additional notes at the bottom it mentions which bulbs have to be used for the lamps. It also mentions the IKI 5004 side markers used and that they had to install a second set of taillights (type ULO K 11254), since the original set that came with the car was leaky. on the third page (additinional sheet, this time in german) there were some later informations like - what kind of lamps where installed Note fom 10. november 1971) - Where the car's serial number is found (note from 19. July 1972) - Note from 7. February 1973, that from Chassis-nr HLS30-132850 a brake boost / force limiter (don't know the official english word for it) was installed for the rear brakes, to reach the braking performance requirements, which were introduced after the car's initial homologation.
  15. JDMjunkies.ch posted a post in a topic in Racing
    It's a bit off-Topic so maybe we can discuss this in a personal conversation. I Totally get your Point. same here. Just wanted to mention that i have mentioned your Name at several places on my Website, and if i've missed it at some Point, please let me know, i will very happily update it with your Name. Sometimes i just don't remember where i got the data from several years back. Also i missed to post sources in the early Posts, which i've changed since then. Also it is free to anyone to comment on my blogposts in the comments section. i release and comment every comment there. As said, i totally get your Point and it was never my Intention to offend you or anything near that. I really appreciate the snippets of informations you spread along the interwebs. Together with the Information i have from original documentation (which i have to purchase from around the world as well), non factory documentation, FIA-homologations, etc. I try to puzzle together those Posts. It would sometimes already be very helpful to just know where i can get the information. i don't want to be lazy, i work for my Information. The big difference is that you seem to have far better sources and a bigger Network than me. so it makes it hard to get some informations that other have, and therefore complete things. Also please, in future, if you feel like i've done something in a wrong matter, let me know directly - i will try my best to get it right. we're grown up men after all, right? nevertheless thanks again for your Inputs and it's really a joy to read your Posts. Cheers
  16. JDMjunkies.ch posted a post in a topic in Racing
    Hope it's ok i used this Picture from you to prove my fail on my blog? Thanks for your work. It's so obvious, i even got some NOS boxes with similar Stickers on it, i really wonder why i never got it
  17. JDMjunkies.ch posted a post in a topic in Racing
    OK guys, i just came across this thread by accident and i'd like to let you know: 1) I'm the guy with the JDMjunkies.ch blog and Project build 2) as i state on my Suspension post, i tried my very best to get all the Information right and it was all the Information i had at the Point when i wrote the post. 3) I also stated that you should let me know if you have any corrections and can prove it. So this all makes sense and i updated the Information on my blog. Feeling a bit guilty for missing such an obvious Point. but yeah - $^!# happens, right? Thanks for your Input. Next time, please let me know directly if you know more. At least some guy shot me a message yesterday to tell me the correct Thing. Whoever it was - thanks, mate! Also @Alan, i asked you several times (Both in private Messages in several Forums and in the threads directly) about some data which i know you own, to complete my Posts. Like the MK63 post i'm currently working on. but unfortunately you never even replied to me... I think it's very hard to find useful and collected Information online in some cases and i try my very best to get it right and get the Information together in a useable way for the General public. I know some People have quite the knowledge and own all the documents, but i try to make it accessible for all in a more general way. So bear with me if some Information got wrong along the way. Again i try my very best to have it right and confirmed with official documents or trustworthy sources. So sorry for my mistake and i really appreciate your Inputs to improve my texts.
  18. Time for a little more knowledge today After i posted pictures from my T/C rod bushings in various forum-threads, people replied that i should swap to rubber in the back. After discussing a few topics i figoured out that original rubber bushings are still available new from Nissan and ordered a set, which i was able to pick up today: The problem: According to many people, the T/C rod tends to brake at the yellow area, when PU-bushings are used both in front and rear of the Frame-rail mount. This due to much counterstrength whith the hard PU-bushings. For sciences' sake i decided to compare both setups with an original NOS 240Z frame rail i have in my shop. Top: Front PU / rear Rubber Bottom: Front PU / rear PU 1st: Both PU. Fits perfect, but it's very stiff, both compression and angle-movement wise. Second: Front PU / rear rubber. You still have the advantage of PU-front (less rearwards movement during compression, red arrow), while having more freedom of angle-movement (yellow arrow) and therefore minimized the chance that the T/C rod will brake. So thanks all for the inputs and advice and i'll definitely stick with the PU / Rubber combination for best performance and with least failure rate
  19. The more i read, the more confused i get. Nevertheless, i try to order a set of OEM rubber bushings and try to figure it out Thanks for all your advice, guys!
  20. In this thread, someone recommands to put the rubber in front: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26238-my-swiss-1972-s30-240z-rebuild-project/page-33#entry1544974 question is if it breaks due to Compression (and the rod bending) or due to the movement / angle, as you say. not sure yet which is the correct route. both explanations seem plausible...
  21. Thanks for the input guys! appreciate! Already heard that from a few other sides as well so guess i will go that route. @captain obvious, wouldn't it make sense to have the front one in ruber and the rear one on urethane? the front one beeing the compression bushing, right? or am i wrong?
  22. Thanks for the advice. think i heard about that before. where do you get new rubber bushings? Hi Marcel. it's really soft, it will bend easily by it's own weight once you lift it up. Where are you from? if you're near you're free to have a look at it. You can even lend it to make an exact copy or so... Just hit me with a PN.
  23. A while ago i discovered some NOS parts on a german Sales ad website and contact the seller. few days later i got some NOS parts in my mailbox A 5-speed transmission clutch fork incl the retainer spring: two drum-brake slave cylinders (keen-eyed readers might note that i got two left-sided items) And a set of drum-brake hardware: More parts are on the way from japan currenty. and while waiting, i decided to strip the various layers of old paint from the Euro-chin spoiler with the simple use of some pressurized air and a spatula. before... at least five layers of different primers and paint: and here's the result. yeah, still two layers to go, but this one is tuff. even the paint stripper didn't work on this. wonder what it is.. probably have to sand it down by hand.. no hurry though, at least i don't have old paint peeling off from it and messing the storage space now anymore... Oh, and almost forgot i had all the parts for the doglegs ready since a while but never assembled them... So did that today, freshly powdercoated doglegs, zinc plated hardware and new Polyurethane bushings. next to a pair of old unrestored doglegs
  24. This is another little project that has been under work for a while and is finally completed A while ago i wanted to re-assemble the transmission crossmember with the new Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. They're stated to fit all 240Z years on their website: However, when i tried to install it, it didn't fit at all... The metal tube was too long to fit inside the outer mounting bracket and had a wrong diameter, the bushings had a completely wrong shape too and didn't fit anywhere.... It was only then i figoured out there are at least three different types of transmission crossmembers and they do not fit the type i got i got: I tried to find a supplier, but they weren't available. But when i asked Jakub Nurzaj from DPAN Europe he immediately told me that he could make a set for me... So i took some measures and we double checked a few things, before the first series went into production. Yesterday i was finally able to pick them up at the postal office and the first look was promising. Here's a comparison between energy bushings (left) and Jakub's bushings (right) the difference is small but i can assure you the ones to the left don't fit at all... So today i was finally able to install them (use some bushing grease!) Fitment is spot on and tight. perfect! I cannot thank Jakub enough for the work he put into this and i'm happy i could support him. The bushings are now available from Jakub Nurzaj from the DPAN Europe facebook page. Contact him if you need these. Here's how the crossmember looked before restauration: And here's the completed, freshly powdercoated transmission crossmember with freshly zinc plated bolts and the NISMO / Kameari Transmission mount. Looking cood. Another Puzzle-piece complete. Thanks again to Jakub for the awesome work!
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