Perfect240Z

I had to do that with my Z. Not only was it from another state, but the last person to fill out the registration paper work wrote 1978 instead of 1970. So I had to have the local PD do a vin check and make sure its on three spots on the car(Dash, engine bay, and door jam).

I got my 1970 Z for free , got it running in a week. Needs some repairs, but other then that great shape...to me that is

Ok, yeah I'll just do head work since the block is working fine on my L24. Strange though I took the valve cover off and I didn't have any oil on my lobes, I didn't even have a thin greasey layer to wipe, maybe my car didn't didn't want to go because the cam wouldn't move across the rocker arms from no oil? I don't have an external oil bar and the cam has the holes on the lobes for the oil to come out. Would their be something else connect to the cam for the oil? Not too sure.

This is my L24

I'll take a pic of my L24, it's got a chipped piece off the cam gear missing, dont know if it fell down into the bottom of the block :/ (not me btw, came like that) I'll take a pic of cam too since it looks worn? But I would use it since the lobes all still feel smooth. The motor leaks oil, probably when the oil pan gasket was changed they tighten the bolts too tight and warped/bent that part so it leaks. Need a new oil pressure sensor since mine has all the wires ripped out of it(might be fixible with some soldering). These are all jus signs to me that Ill rebuild that one back to stock.

Heres some quick picks, since im doing body work and repainting myself in the garage, so if the paint is new the rebuild might happen. Didn't realize a lot of people would just pull the motor and run it . I figured thats also a rule to rebuild if you get a motor since its out of the car might as well do it. Since my L24 is the original block with the car, that might have never been rebuilt, but I must say that since I wanted a bit more fun power, I have to do it to the L28 since the guy I bought it from said it needs rebuilt when he did the compression test. At least he told me. I will however keep with the dished pistons, I didn't know that the dished pistons were ok to use with with carbs. But after reading that the N42 block came with dished im ok with it now.

I did a leak down compression test, all of the ignition and power parts weren't on the car. So I couldn't crank the motor for a regular compression. If I see a complete one I guess I could pick it up, but my L24 block doesn't look like its ever been rebuilt, a head swap was done for sure since it also has a cam in it without an external oil bar. My Z should've had the e31 head. Maybe the person who had it in new Mexico thought it'd be a good idea? I bought the L28 block real cheap and can just get new rings and get a flex hone tool to rough it up for the ring break in and can run it. I have all the parts to make my car work, I don't need to buy anything really, just put it together. The engine may be bullet proof, but it wouldn't be my piece of mind to just use something unknown, that's just me. I have read so much about their reliability that I trust it to work, just dont trust the last owner who covered all the rust with bondo, drilled holes into the floor pan and use glue to hold things together. Hence why I think it needs a rebuilding. I'm a little bit of a newb, but I listen well and learn easily. Just having the hardest time understanding why I wouldn't have a motor rebuilt if theirs no history on it.

I wanted to say happy new year to all my Z friends here on classic Z! Awesome website to be a part of

I actually did a compression test. After I removed the transmission, I tried to put only 100psi in the cylinders(while at tdc btw). For some reason it still turned the crank from the pressure, so I could only get 40psi without it turning. All cyclinders all at least held the same psi. Plugs showed it was running super rich. My cam has this yellowing on the lobes, and looks worn, I'm sure it can still be run no problem though. What does smelling the dipstick mean? I got this car and it hadn't been running for two years, I got it running after about a week, and changing the entire ignition system. The guy i got it from eBay I think...so it's probably nothing special. I'm sure it could probably used head work to maybe run right but I'd rather rebuild it that way I have my piece of mind about it.

I have a 1970 240z #979 She should have a e31 block with a e31 head. But I'm guessing the previous owner who had it in new Mexico swapped it out? I don't know which e88 I have, it's still attached on the engine stand, I was going to get a e31 later on and install it to my e31 head to make it period correct. I might be able to get away with getting the top end redone. It didn't really smoke or anything when she ran. Just never ran past 40mph. So I don't know what was up with the motor/fuel issue. But if I have a bigger displacement motor I might as well use it if I want some fun till I can make my car period correct when I'm older and want to sell her.

I don't know if these are considered deep or not, but these are the pistons.

Well it's been months since I've had an update on here. The car is almost ready for me to start stripping the paint and patching up some minor holes. I found out that the car was in an accident at some point when I saw the wrinkle damage behind the fender. So i'll have to cut and weld in another piece soon. It was covered by bondo painted black...It wasn't even flat and smooth, guess they thought someone wouldn't look at that. I also got some parts purchased during this time of missed updates. I purchased 6-1 ceramic coated headers, I picked up a N42 cylinder thats in great condition and just needs to be assembled, I also got a F54 turbo block that has the complete rotating assembly, it has dished pistons though, so Im not sure if I have to change those to a different kind if I use my N42 head and triple mikunis. I really want to get those, I also want to get some new Su's which will be difference in...well at least 1500 bucks. So we'll see how this tax return looks this year Any advice please shot some my way, here's some pictures of the car now as it stands.

Both of my motors need rebuilding so it's not like I'd be spending any extra, unless people say I shouldn't use the dished pistons with carbs since its from a turbo.

Well I mean restore as in I'm fixing everything on the car. Welding, replacing back to stock on items I can get online, re paint the car, as far as motor I'll have that stuff for if I were to sell the car. I was just referencing a thread I read earlier between someone using a 2.4 or 2.8. I have both, both need rebuilding. And in that thread someone said the L24 is very peppy and you didn't need the L28. And I know the triples are expensive, thats the one thing I'd be willing to spend a little money on after rebuilding. Well should I still use the stock dished pistons even though I'm going for carbs? I was going to use flat tops, but I heard that I'm going to get detenation. Anyone have pros or cons on that? I won't be using a after market cam or anything else really for performance till later on when i recooperate more funds after the finished product.

Alright guys, Here's my situation, it's been awhile since I've posted anything I've been really busy with my slow resto 240z. But here's my question, my 240z came with the e31 block, and someone stuck on an e88 head. The motor needs to be rebuilt anyways. I also have a f54 block that I just picked up, I believe it's from a 280zxt since it has dished pistons on it. That motor also needs to be rebuilt. I have a n42 head that was worked on and only half finished by a Z shop that closed down some years ago, but is pretty clean. Anyways I've read a lot of threads on here saying go L24 vs L28 but my question is what is the benefit? I'll be putting triple carbs, on it anyways. I also didn't know if I should keep the dished pistons from the turbo f54 or replace it with flat tops. I don't make a lot so I'm trying to keep the build as cheap as I can. Any info would be very appreciated.

Its been awhile since I made a post. I'll make one tonight. Almost ready to start stripping the paint off the car. And many parts picked up!

Congrats!! I'm retstoring my Z as well, it has an l24 as well, I have a 1970 240z. Good luck with your build. I suggest keeping it original, at least for awhile, easier to maintain too since there's no computers involved with it. Besides you can always upgrade later, just keep the original stuff and reinstall it when or if you sell it.

I haven't posted any pics in awhile, l have the car mostly stripped of all the electrics and interior. Motor is ready to be pulled, I just have to keep at chipping away that damn old sound deadner. After the motor is out I can really start sanding away at the body, their are some small holes on the fenders and door of the car, kind of like their was some molding or something was across the whole car, holes follow a line all the way from rear to front. Def some rust because of those damn holes and the damn sticky molding I pealed off. Well Im going to try and get some work done on the car while the wife is sleeping(then she can't be mad lolLOL). Still trying to figure out the 100 psi pressure not being able to be put in the block without the crank turning.

Mine has the double levers too, and I was told its supposed to operate a throttle type of control. Mine didn't seem to work though, my car is all taken apart now to start to restore it. I'll try and post some pictures right now actually.

Have I been doing that?? I really didn't mean too . I just did a leak down test and it was odd I guess I should say. I only had a 5% loss in pressure in all cylinders. Which I believe that means the motor is great. However I could put more then 40psi of pressure into the block without the crank turning on it's own.... Any thoughts? Transmission is not bolted to the block since I'm getting my new one.

I actually bought some already and started chipping away at it. I got the drivers side 90% done, and 1/4 -1/2 of the rear hatach. Back was hurting from bending down so I went and switched to standing up. I took some picks of the floor pans and back hatch, I throw it up when i get home from work.

I have a stock exhaust manifold. Im running 4 screw sus on them. The carbs have air leaks in the shafts so I'll be ordering new ones from ztherapy at some point. Im doing one thing, the tear down. Im currently chipping away the old sound deadner inside the car. I never did anything prior to this because my car was stuck at work. Car is now home so Im doing a complete restoration.

So I took today to work on the car a little. I took the rear tail lights and plates off found a common rust spot that was covered by some kind of glue to either hide it or stop it. Either way its not too good. I also finished taking off the headers, intake manifold, carbs, and radiator+lines. Going to get the stuff to do a leak down test soon, might take awhile to get the money to either rent the compressor or buy, I want one so we'll see how long it'll take to do that. Im also going to attempt a valve adjustment when I get a feeler gauge. Maybe The car is dieing for a valve adjustment, and fuel from my broken carbs. I took some pics of the engine bay and back hatch area.

Congrats!!!

I may have found a e31 head. Sweet!!