5thhorsemann

Here is what was removed RT, FRONT= 16 1/4" tests at 149 LB/IN LT FRONT= 15 3/4" tests at 149 LB/IN RT REAR= 15 1/2" tests at 158 LB/IN LT REAR 15 3/8 tests at 151 LB/IN I am told this is 1" over stock, likely 150LB/IN front and 160 lb/in rear. Would this make sense to anyone, The two front springs are not the same length?

What is the stock rate and length for the 73 Z springs anyway? I know what I have isn't stock.

Two words, "CHICK CAR"

Look on the bright side, ours are worth just a little bit more today, Here's to 41780.........

Yea, my wheel offsets give me good clearence inboard, and to be honest the 250 or 275 lb/in springs and new struts would likely solve all my problems. I just hate like hell to do things twice. Rather go all the way and allow for future mods now than take the shortcut only to find myself saying "I should have" later. Besides, This car ain't getting any younger, and all the stuff I need is readily available here and now. I am getting good advice, and options that I haden't considered, so I guess I will just keep searching parts, and reading posts till I make up my mind. Thanks all.

Thats not going to help the cause if I want to go back down in the future.

P245/60R14. Tested the old springs yesterday at 150 lb/in roughly. The lower perches will be removed to accomodate the sleeves. installing all new urethane bushings throughout front and rear, and new sway bars as well. My buddy is trying to convince me to replace the springs and struts and let her eat, but I think I should go with the adjusters while I'm in there. Any thoughts?

No, the tires reach outside the body limits. I would like to stay away from molesting the body if at all possable. For this part of the world the car is too clean to be cutting fenders.

If your batt is getting weak. pull one fuse at a time (key off) and check the voltage drop over each fuse, meaning take a voltage meter and read the voltage across the fuse poles (without the fuse), it should be zero. Make sure everything is off and the doors are closed. you should only be seeing the clock draw at that point. The one that is showing the highest drop, or the highest voltage, is the bigest problem. Don't forget to take notes of your findings.

Yes, I realize that the car will handel better closer to the ground, yes I realize that it was a mistake replacing the tires with the same tires the last owner had on the car. If you ever drove a 1966 olds f85 you would realize that the 240z handels scarry good in comparason. The car must be made to misbehave in corners now. The problem is, the springs that are on the car now are soft and allow the tires to rub in hard corners, bumps and dips. Also, the roads in Maryland are crappy, that doesn't make lowering that appealing to me. Nor do I like that slammed look. The adjusters are the answer to the problem, If at some point I get rid of the 14" rims and go with a bigger diameter, more tire choices become available. At that time I can drop the body, lower the C of G and do the whole job in a few hours. Still not geting any good sources for the GC adjusters without the springs.

I checked out your links, thanks, helpful stuff. But I'm still not finding a really great price on the adjuster hardware itself. Thats what I'm trying to do. I just sold a 1966 olds f85 to a friend of mine who works in a spring shop. He owes me a favor and is going to hook me up on the springs and struts. The f85 was a fun car but it handled like a WWII destroyer. Now I have the 240Z and want it to sit a bit higher than stock and still handel on curves. The last owner has the car sitting perfect, 3/4" higher front and 1/2" higher in the back. The problem is that the springs he used are soft and he put those aluminum cam shims in the springs to get the car to sit right. I want to get the car to sit just like it sits now and be properly adjusted mechanically. If I change wheels and tires in the future, I want to be able to mechanically adjust the car to the new tire profile without taking the suspension apart a second time. So to sum it up, what I want is to buy the adjuster hardware, and pay as close to nothing for it as posible."Fistey" means understand, fistey?

I am going to have the springs made to length at 275 pound rate, then I will install them over the stock tubes with new struts and ballance the chassi on level surface with wheel scales. I have the struts and springs lined up, but still need the GC adjuster assemblies, fistey?

If the coil is leaking tar, replace it. If it shows open or short replace it. You don't have an ignition problem (as a priority) if your batt is getting weak. pull one fuse at a time (key off) and check the voltage drop over each fuse, meaning take a voltage meter and read the voltage across the fuse poles, it should be zero. Make sure everything is off and the doors are closed. you should only be seeing the clock draw at that point. The one that is showing the highest drop, or the highest voltage, is the bigest problem. If you find a blown fuse check that circut and don't forget to work the switches. Take notes of your findings and you will find your trouble quick!

There should be a resistor on the drivers side fender, under the coil 1/2" square 2" to 3 " long wired to the coil if you have points. I don't know on a 260Z, but the 240 has one. You are trying to read the mind of the guy that did the swap. You really need a manual to work off of man.

Have any of you shopped the GC spring adjusters for a 73 240Z lately? If so where did you find the best price on em? I just want to buy the sleeves and spring collars, will have the springs custom wound locally. Found a set on ebay with springs for $377, so I think I should be able to get them without the springs for around $200. Any advice appriciated, Thanks.

The distributor & coil were smoking? I'm not sure what ignition you have in there but if you leave the ign switch on with the motor not running, you can smoke your coil and condensor if the points are closed. Also check to see that the resistor is there if your ign sys calls for one. Did they keep round top SU's when they made the motor switch, or does it have the POS flat top intake for the 260? If you have the flatties, you need to trash them along with all the smog gear and get a real intake. Time to get a manual out and see to it that the things that are "moving a bit" should be moving in the first place, and indeed moving as they should. Good luck, sounds like you might need some.

This is the car Tatem Oneal lost her verginity in, and they still haven't cleaned the interrior. Rosanne Barr got her cherry popped in my silver 73, I gave $750 and it needs carpet and springs!

Electronic ignition systems usually don't get sick, they just drop dead. Look to see that the components are installed corectly. Also, when I swapped out the flat tops on my 73 for 72 SU's I found that I couldn't run the vent tubes from the carb bowles to the K&N filters, as the vents SHOULD BE outside the air filter AND THEREBY ISOLATED FROM MANIFOLD VACCUME. I had no manual to go by and wasn't thinking when I put the thing together. but it will pull the fuel back through the jet at speed causing a lean condition, mine sounded similar to what yours is doing, worth a peak.

if you need to copy discontinued decals, you need to go to a sign shop or a place that does vehicle wraps. That would be your best source for a reproduction that will give youa decent lifespan, if you cant find a shop local, email me a clean usable file and i'll price them for you. need the size also. mike@signsationsinc.net

I get the concept, and it sounds like I came to the right place, Thanks for the input. I'm heading to my shop rite now to pull the drivers side suspension off the car and take some more measurements, and drink some beer. Thanks again.

It was my understanding that the GC sleeve is made to mount flush to the top of the strut tube, I got that in a phone conversation with a GC tech, If what you are saying is true, I could make that work with stock strut tubes and off the shelf struts. Have you ever installed the GC adjusters? If I can make them work It would be great.

Ground control won't work. They only adjust down. If you weld the sleves in an upward adjustable position they will interfere with the strut travel and cause big problems. I could use that setup with a custom fabricated spring, but now we're talking big bucks.

how did you clean it?

Sounds temp sensitive, like a sensor is tripping and the issue shows itself, could be injection circut or fire, you didn't pressure wash the motor, did you? (gasp)

so much for bowl vents, try blowing the thing off with a leaf blower, might dislodge a pesky water droplet.