my_mad_z

I bought a 69 240z off Waz a few years ago for $400! It had an aftermarket sunroof installed, so I ended up buying another 240z off Waz for another $400. So in answer to your question, I'm not sure how much the roof was. I was willing to pay whatever to get the roof cause having a 69er Z is a rare thing here...... What's wrong with the roof on your Z? Is it rusted, have a sunroof, or is it in bad shape? It's a pr*ck of a job to replace the roof skin! I'll keep an eye out for you...... Waz is coming to my place tomorrow, I'll ask him if he has anything and get back to you. Marc.

Gringind the paint off with what? You have to be very careful if you are using a grinding disc or very course sandpaper. If you put too much heat into the body, the panels will warp. I would suggest using paint stripper to remove the paint! *Scuff the paint (by hand) using course sandpaper - don't push too hard or you will dent the panel; *Apply paint stipper as per directions; *Cover the paint stripper with plastic; *Wait for the paint to fry (bubble up); *Remove with scraper. By scuffing the paint, it allows the paint stripper to work more effectively. Covering the application of paint stripper seams to be more effective as well. Sand blasting is another alternative but it can warp the panels.... I would stick with paint stripper as it doesn't warp or damage the metal. My 2cents, hope it helps. Marc.

Try Z works in Mordialloc...... 95875500 Speak to Waz or Derreck. I got one off them a while back for my 240z.

Justin, here's my 2c..... I had British Su's, so I'm not sure if what I've experienced applies to the 240z su's; when you screw in the mixture nut, they don't actually screw in the same distance.... I learn't this the hard way as I would always have one carb running ritcher than the other when I tuned them exactly the same. Had me stumpped for a while until I decided to remove the piston and investigate. When you screw the mixture nut the whole way in, you'll notice that they sit at different levels, this is visible with piston removed looking inside the carb. I screw them up until they are both flush with the surface (looking inside carb with piston removed). Once flush, I screw 2.5 turns out.... from there, assuming you've checked tappets, timing, and dwell, I usually turn the mixture screw a 1/4 turn at a time (either clockwise or anti clockwise) till the engine hits a nice note and runs smooth. I tend to give it a sharp rev every now and again if it's been idling for too long while adjusting. Lifting the pistons is usually a good way to check if the mixture is right. Check the resistance of the pistons as well, make sure they are the same, if not, check the damper oil. I've never used the flow meter to balance the carbs, always did it by ear.... should hear the same sound coming from each carb; it's pretty obvious when they're out of balance, one will suck harder than the other and there is a noticble difference in sound.

I haven't read all of the posts, so I don't know if anyone has suggested the following. I did this in my 260z and it never got stolen..... Keep in mind I had $5,500 worth of stereo in it, so there was plenty of reason for a thief to attempt it...... I installed a hornet car alarm with immobilizer; I disconnected and removed all of the locking mechanisms and used central locking.... only problem with this was if I got a flat battery, I wouldn't be able to get into the car without breaking a window......luckily never happened! I suppose someone could have broken a window to get in but that would have set off the alarm. I installed the siren close to the exhaust so that if they tried to snip the wires from underneath the car, they would have trouble accessing the wires or they would get burnt! Another thing that I was going to do was put dead lock in but I never got around to doing it. Very easy and effective method. I think there is something on zhome.com on how to install it. It's done by using central locking actuators and attaching a rod to it that when activated it will drive the rod through the door into the pillar; so if they did break a window, they still couldnt open the door. I also attached a central locking actuator to the hatch that would unlock when I disarmed the alarm and lock when armed. It was fairly easy to setup, I removed most of the locking mechanism and fixed the actuator in place with a flat metal plate attached to it with slots...... the hatch is an easy point of entry, screwdriver can open the lock. As I said, never got broken into...... if you want more info, feel free to ask. Marc.

I've had the same problem. Readjust your locking plates as 240znz stated and also lubricate your lock mechanisms; I use to have trouble closing the passenger door and it use to swing open randomly..... a few minor adjustments and a little lubrication solved the problem.

I've done a turbo setup using the F54 block and P90 head...... the motor was originally na so it had the flat top pistons. I replaced the rings with crhome molly rings, honed the bores, and rebuilt the rest of the motor, i.e. replaced the bearings, timing chain and sprokets, etc. I left the flat top pistons in...... believe it or not, I was running 18psi boost with this setup and didn't have a problem..... you can see the setup in my gallery on my 260z (R.I.P), I was running twin stromberg carbs, T03/T04 hybrid turbo, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 42mm wastegate and water/methanol injection. The water/methanol injection made a huge difference; I suppose if you are doing an EFI setup, you can use an intercooler instead. I stripped the motor down after the accident and it was in perfect condition, hone marks were still visible and the pistons and rings were still good. I was satisfied with the performance but this time round, I will be using an EFI setup in the 240z I'm restoring; i'll be using the same block and head combo as it was salvaged from the wreck.

If it's not the flasher, check your common ground wires as well. A bad earth could be part of the problem. My 2c.

Ivan, had a look at the links, very interesting! Thanks for pointing out these alternative options, appreciate it. Steve, Thanks for the technical info. I am still in the process of deciding what to do, as I'm in no hurry to attempt the swap. If I do, I'll be sure to see if you still want to sell the parts. Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it. Marc.

Thanks for the advice, will have a look as soon as I get a chance.

Quick question about installing a R200 in a 240z. Has anyone attempted to install the R200 out of a Z32 or even R32 Skyline? I realise the diffs are different and wont be an easy bolt in job. If anyone has attempted this, I'd be interested in knowing if its worth doing or not, and what needs to be done. I've already fitted the R200 into the 240z (out of my 260z) but it's not LSD. Finding an R200 lsd from a Z31 is difficult and expensive in Aus. I had a quick bowse through the forums to find what I was after but had no luck; if there is already a post on this, I apologise. Thanks guys. Marc.