anthony_c

looking for advice on how to unseat these connectors from the panel and back out the individual pins

ok, your find trumps mine. sounds llike someone just wanted everything out of their garage.

"oh yeah, forgot i had that" several years i bought some spares from a guy here in-state, i don't remember much about him or the transaction. anyway, the parts i bought were the interior plastics - rear, sides, and roof for my 260. when i met him to pick up the parts he brought along a box of other stuff and asked if i wanted it. i opened the flap of the box, identified it as wiring, and didn't give it much more thought than that. i waffled a bit, and then on general principle said "sure, i'll take it" without really knowing what was there or if i needed it. today i remembered that box. and what i received for the price of the plastics included the engine bay harness, the fusible links, fuse panel (w/ fuses), relay panel (w/ relays), the patch panel, the ignition pack, and part of the dash harness.

but for future reference, a clearer view of how the interlock and relay fit in

delayed update: it was neither the interlock nor the relay. it appears to be a loose connector (C5) under the dash and i'm sort of wishing it was the interlock instead.

240260280, i'd still be interested in seeing this if you do come across it. ill add it to my fsm as a reminder of what i did.

i see your point about jumping at the relay or the emergency switch. either method gives the current a direct path and both are a quick, easy, and immediate fix. do we have a personal preference?

@SteveJ, working up to that but squeezing this in btw other projects. The problem is intermittent and when it does occur i can hear a relay in the footwell clicking, but nothing from the starter solenoid. Just thinking out loud, but i still haven't decided whether I want to purge the whole system and re-wire it like it was never there or add a parallel backup (maybe a momentary switch somewhere for when it decides not to work) or maybe just disconnect it, leave it in place and add a few jumpers as needed, or, or, or...

the car is pretty close to stock and the original harness is more or less intact, so i cringe at the idea of hacks that can't be reversed, but the idea of just laying in new wires, bypassing the whole mess, and relocating the interlock, relay, and emergency to my box of spares has its appeal. this system is all problem, of no benefit, and i doubt anyone would ever complain about its absence.

laying a screwdriver across the starter solenoid contacts is an effective way of starting my car. but it is only slightly more graceful than hand cranking a model t. i've heard rumor of a factory TSB that shows how to completely bypass the interlock. does anyone still have a copy they'd be willing to photocopy and share? or is this as simple as disonnecting a few harness connectors and inserting a jumper somewhere? fwiw, my 260 has a build date of 7/74 and all of the relays are in the passenger foot well, not the engine bay. and no, none are labeled.

for those wanting to keep it old-school, i picked up a new replacement VR from oreilly's today. i was somewhat suprised by this, but instead of being a SS board type, it uses copper coils and contacts. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDI0/290155/02115.oap?year=1974&make=Nissan&model=260Z&vi=5142642&ck=Search_voltage+regulator_5142642_3934&keyword=voltage+regulator#itemDetailTab_ it worked out-of-the-box with no adjustment. at 2k rpm with the headlights off my meter stopped at 14.9v. probably more durable to boot.

@Endless-summers: so Dave has a 260->240 conversion kit for his hl relay harness? can you tell me how to reach him?

Rock Auto, but the receipt indicates it was a "Close-Out", so it may have been the last of that bunch. Lucky me.

3 years ago I was struggling to sort out some nasty electrical problems with help from SteveJ. During the process i replaced the original VR wih a new one, in hopes that it would solve the problem or at least overcome some of them. Image attached. Two weeks ago after driving at night I was left stranded with a dead battery. Cause? The new and improved VR was dead, so I pulled dug out the original and re-installed it. Problem solved. Keeping all of my old parts from now on.

the 240's and early 260's did not come with molded carpets, and to my knowledge no one makes them today. the closest i can find is the sewn-molded variety which is fine by me. if any 260 owners have purchased one of these sewn-molded kits and happened across one that fits out-of-the-box please give me a shout.

unfortunately there is no resolution to the carpet issue. the sewn/molded kit provided by MSA's supplier is shipped unfinished and will require the work of an upholstery shop to complete the installation. of the 6 pieces included in the kit, 3 can not be installed without additional cutting and sewing.

A few weeks ago I purchased a sewn-molded carpet kit from MSA, but several of the pieces did not fit and a few were actually shipped by the manufacturer as uncut, un-sewn, and un-bound flat pieces of carpet. Communication with MSA has been, ummm, slow, and after two weeks of emails and phone calls I'm not getting much traction. Does anyone have a better source for these? I'd prefer not to keep experimenting $300 at a time.

this is one of those hopelessly trivial questions, but does anyone know what size machine screws are needed in the sides of the console? there two on opposite sides of the shift lever, and 4 on opposite sides of the radio.

yes captain it does does help, and thanks for pointing out the tab orientation. i only had one bad contact and i'm trying to avoid any unneccesary wire splices so i've ordered a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS8OU9M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

this problem must be contagious. my left brake is out as well, and i've traced the problem to the socket. before i cut the wires and crimp on an a universal part, has anyone found a better solution? i can replace the entire socket, or keep the socket and just replace the contacts and pigtail. the insulator disks are a bit oversized for the original socket, so some amount of fiddling is needed.

Top Gear Returns

cant speak for the zx, but fwiw these came off my 74 and have a 4 inch backspace.

jeff's response sort of begs another question. one mechanic i spoke with seemed to think that my 16x7 +38 rims combined with 38mm wheel adapter would be stressing the bearings. but unless i'm overlooking something, i've effectively maintained the same centerline, so there should be no problem. am i correct?

i've never heard of them referred to as hub extenders, but google "wheel adapters" and you should find many sources and just about any dimension you could dream up. typical price is about 40-50 per wheel.you may need longer studs up frontpay attention to the hub bore.i'm running a set now. they work, but i'd feel more confident if they weren't there.

http://columbia.craigslist.org/bab/5061356238.html Datsun puppy - $75 (Lexington) Wonderful loving 8 month old Datsun puppy lovable and great with kids,we have no space for him in this new home,75.00 firm call me any time or text