Captain_Zeros

Sounds exactly like when my fuel filter in the electric pump near my tank was clogged.

Thanks for the link, I found that thread earlier today and couldn't find it for the life of me when I wanted to refer back to it! The closest I could find was references to a thermoswitch in the cabin (which isn't so equipped on my car) for pulling timing on automatic transmission cars and/or controlling the EGR system my car may or may not have ever had in the first place and references to thermoswitches in other years. I'm real tempted to splice an idiot light into that thermoswitch thread it into the cabin so I can see what kind of range it has under real world conditions. My ulterior motive is I'm considering an electric fan swap and having a thermoswitch threaded into a coolant passage could be pretty damn useful for that. The way I figure it probably isn't anywhere close to the temperature I want, but if I can find out what the threads are on it I might be able to source a thermoswitch that is... or adapters... or drill and tap... but all those things require draining the coolant which while not difficult, I don't want to do if it's not necessary. But I digress and ramble.

Okay, so, I'm monkeying around with stuff and this is bothering me. What is the sensor with the two green wires going into the bit of metal between the radiator hose and the thermostat housing? I assume the one lower down with the single yellow wire is the temperature gauge sender. There are also another green wire and a black/yellow wire in the harness that have been chopped off since before I got the car that I'm a bit curious about. Disregard the 280zx distributor blocking the view of everything, that's my own hack-job wiring that I understand pretty well

That's awesome!

A bit of a tangent, but oil pressure is a lot less important than oil flow. It's just a lot easier to measure. For a given amount of flow, adding restrictions will increase pressure and removing restrictions will decrease that pressure, as long as the dinosaur-juice is flowing it'll be lubricating. Your new oil filter is probably just more restrictive than your old one, or your new oil after changing the filter is a little thicker than the old stuff you drained out, Jenny. (either that or heaven forbid, you got some kind of minor blockage in an oil passage at the same time and that's increasing your pressure. Just being the devil's advocate, I think it's probably the filter or the oil.) If I'm remembering right, this article has some pretty good breakdowns on oil dynamics: FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)

The switch is indeed a neutral switch. It's also the same part as the reverse light switch. Mine has been disconnected since before I got the car with no noticeable effects, I don't know if there is a starter interlock if it's in gear and the switch is hooked up or not.

The hell am I looking at... Edit: Best guess from my research department says "Heavily modified Holden HB Torana"

disclaimer: I'm a 240z guy, so I mostly can tell you about the points and condenser you don't have However, it might be a good idea to grab the distributor shaft and see if it has any lateral wiggle. It should spin fine, and feel a little slop there from the vacuum and mechanical advance, but it shouldn't have much of any play sideways (which would be a sign of worn out bushings in the distributor and would prematurely wear out the cap & rotor) How old is the cap you're replacing? If it's pretty new I'd be suspicious, if it's ancient... well... it's considered a wear part.

If you have problems with the clutch not engaging with new parts installed, give this a read too: Nissan Throwout Bearing Collar Specs Comparison Measurements There are about a zillion combos of throwout bearing collars and pressure plates. As long as the whole stack adds up the right thickness everything will be fine, but if you have a tall pressure plate and a tall throwing bearing carrier, then the distance will be wrong and it'll rub on the pressure plate and prevent the clutch from fully engaging. If you have a short pressure plate and a short throwout carrier then it won't reach far enough and it'll never disengage properly. I've heard it can be a real headache if you mix and match different years or different models of transmission and don't keep the matching parts together. Hopefully you don't have that issue, but it's something to be aware of if you keep having problems.

Yep, that's your only adjust point unless somebody has gone and replaced the slave cylinder actuator rod with an adjustable one. Just adjust the linkage where the master attaches to the pedal until the clutch bite point is to your liking & the clutch fully engages and fully disengages.

Where are my tow chains? Grab some rollers and ALL ABOARD THE Z TRAIN OUTTA THERE

Changing ignition timing will change your idle speed, it's normal.

I use two different 17mm wrenches when I do my valves, a nice long one that I can tap the end of with a mallet to loosen 'em, and a little short thin jawed 1970s honda motorcycle toolkit wrench that fits in real nicely for adjusting and tightening.

The most important thing you can do with round top SUs is get your float level proper, do that and make sure your float valve is closing and opening properly and it should be no problem getting it to run (at least run poorly) as long as there is fuel getting to the carbs. Also make sure the pistons aren't stuck and drop okay. Second on the Just SUs video, it taught me most of what I know about em.

A lot of folks just use whatever engine oil is on hand out of convenience. It's just there to a) help the shock from seizing inside the tube for the NEXT time you have to replace it, and help transfer heat out of the shock insert into the tube because the shock pretty much turns motion into heat.

When you yank the hazard switch, do your turn signals still function? The hazard switch breaks the turn signal circuit and enables a hazard blinker circuit when it's functioning properly. If with the switch pulled out your turn signals still work then it's the switch, if with the switch pulled out you get no hazards AND no turn signals, then go for the hazard blink relay.

Here's a nice blurry picture at a funny (upward from the ground) angle from the wiring in the back of my mid-73 240z that had a fuel pump in it when I got it (but not the jumper in the cabin to power it, go figure.)

I'm pretty sure that green wire and black wire plugged into each other are the +12v and ground for your fuel pump, respectively. They're probably stuck together to stop the plugs from getting full of road debris.

Stripes. The easiest way to make sure nobody calls it a 260.

I didn't have to remove the sleeve, but had to remove an aluminum cup from an old worn out ball & socket track upgrade kit. I soaked it in penetrating lube, adjusted my vice a hair over the diameter of the t/c rod and a under the diameter of the cup I was removing so I could put the cup on top of the jaws and tap the t/c rod out of it downwards. One came out easy, the other I had to heat with a torch to get it to come off (propane was enough, I didn't have anything fancier, but then again aluminum in my situation), then it came off without too much hassle.

ah, then it's been replaced with an aftermarket grose jet at some point. Some people swear that they're better, some people swear they'll stick up and burn your car down. I don't have any anecdotal or scientific info either way, my car has stock valves and they work fine. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace 'em if you're having problems (either with stock style valves or new grose jets, new is new. I'll wait for one of the old-timers who knows more than me to chime in though) Stock ones look like this:

science!

Circled in red is the overflow port on the float bowl, if fuel is coming out of it that means the float bowl valve isn't closing properly, which is gonna cause all kinds of puking fuel everywhere (and running super rich to boot). Take off your float bowl lids and fiddle with and/or replace the valves. Another possibility is that the valve is fine and the metal tab on the float itself isn't making square contact on the needle valve and not closing it properly as well.

They're stock pre-1973 240Z Hitachi round top carburetors, if the dome is held on by 3 screws they were probably made in 1972 if I remember right. As far as guides on them I can't recommend ztherapy's "Just SUs" video enough. It's pretty long and not high production value, but it's all killer no filler as far as information goes. Barring that, read the carburetor chapter in the factory service manual, they're available for download here: XenonS30 In my experience your main spots you can leak are either having your fuel mix set way too rich or your choke left on so fuel can go over the top of the jet, leak down the jet tube and out the bottom of the carb, OR the flexible rubber hose connecting the jet and the float bowl is deteriorated and leaking fuel. Also if your float bowl valve where the fuel line goes into the carb is stuck open, the fuel pump will pump fuel into them until fuel pukes out everywhere.

I like the stripes that came on my Z, and the trim... and the chrome... and the more stripes... and the oh god so many little dealer option thingies....