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Namerow

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Everything posted by Namerow

  1. The numbers are probably accurate but, as CO has pointed out, may be difficult to apply real-world results. Perhaps we should get back to your experiences with your equipment. We can draw conclusions (possibly wrong ) afterwards about how they relate to the specs. The choice between spot-welding vs. MIG stitch-welding seems a really under-discussed part of the hobby-restoration process.
  2. I'm inclined to agree. It can be really challenging to translate engineering specs into real-world outcomes. However, some of us like playing with numbers, so... The duty cycle (%) means that the machine can sustain the stated power output for x% of the time. If the machine is rated as 1.6kVA with a 50% duty cycle, it means that it can produce a stated output of 1.6kVA for, say, 2 seconds, provided that it gets a 2-second dwell time before the next actuation. Or at least, that's the way you'd interpret it for a MIG welder, where the operation tends to be somewhat sustained (as in running a 1/2"-long bead). However, for a spot welder it's a little different. Here, the normal electrical operating mode (selected by the operator, but controlled by the machine) is a continuous and rapid on-off cycling (1 time unit 'ON' followed by 1 time unit 'OFF' = 50% duty cycle). For reference, notice the 'square wave' icon next to the green indicator light on the machine shown in the video. So: the 'n' in 'Sn' means 'normale'. This is written as 'conventional power' on British-spec welders. Probably stated as 'regular operating power' or 'regular duty cycle' in North America. I do not know what the 'p' in 'Sp' means for your machine, other than the fact that it's probably tied to the 'I2p' current rating. I do know that 'I2 cc' refers to the machine's closed-circuit (or 'short-circuit') current rating.
  3. I lifted the '1.6kVA' rating from your photo, which I took to be the unit your are using. There are two things in play with these welder ratings: When an electrical device relies on power bursts to do its job, the basic electrical power formula of 'P = V x A' is too simplistic and doesn't (directly) apply. That formula is most appropriately used for continuous conditions, such as calculating the power delivered by an electrical transmission line. And even in that case, there are correction factors that need to be used. The power rating for a welder only makes practical sense if it's measured and stated specific to a particular duty cycle (50% in this case). You`ll see a similar approach used for MIG welder ratings. Back in my days as a mechanical engineering undergrad, electrical engineering ratings and calculations always gave me a headache. They still do.
  4. Suggest you just go to your local ATV/motorcycle shop and buy a pair of the Kawasaki u-joints. They work fine.
  5. SEM 'Landau Black' vinyl paint. You'll need to clean the color area carefully (follow the instructions on the can). SEM products can usually be found at local auto parts suppliers. It might be easier (and even cheaper), though, to just buy a replacement lever -- new or used -- that's in better shape..
  6. I decided to create a separate, new Topic to better explain the repairs that I did for my 70 Z's ashtray. It's posted (with a few pictures) in the 'Interior' section. More, and more accurate, details about what I did.
  7. Written in January 2020 This little mini-article documents the repairs that I made to my 70 Z's ashtray. Pictures follow at the end. Like many of these ashtrays, the hinge pieces had failed, causing the lid to come adrift. The ashtray isn't much good in that shape. In fact, it doesn't even look good cosmetically. If this is the case for your ashtray, your options are pretty straightforward: Repair or Replace. I think most owners take the 'replace' route, but NOS ashtrays are pretty $pendy (US$1,200 new or $1,000 refurbished from JDM-Car-Parts.com, as of January 2020)). If you don't have the budget, you do what you have to do. No one wants a gaping hole in the console of their otherwise-perfect Series 1 interior. I chose the 'repair' strategy partly because I was trying to keep my project budget under control, but equally because I get a lot of satisfaction out of restoring things. Before I discuss the details of what I did, I think it would be worthwhile to briefly discuss why these ashtrays fail in the first place. There seem to be a few culprits at work: The little helical spring is too strong. This not only overloads the plastic hinge bosses as the lid opens and closes, but also creates an high shock load in those parts when the lid is allowed to snap open (as is usually the case). The type of plastic used to create the main ashtray molding is really brittle (it seems like a 'bakelite'-type material, presumably chosen for its ability to withstand cigarette and cigar burns). That means that it's extra susceptible to stress cracking where high loads exist -- and that seems to describe the situation for the loads that the molded-in bosses take from the tray lid's hinge pins. The tray lid's pivot arms (or 'ears') are molded with sharp interior angles where they meet the underside of the lid. More stress risers. More cracking. In the case of my ashtray, all three problems were on display. 1) The hinge-pin bosses were cracked on one side. On the other side, the top of the boss was missing altogether. As an added nuisance factor, a PO had attempted to repair the one of the bosses using what appeared to be contact cement (now there's an optimist!). 2) The tray lid's RHS pivot arm had snapped off at its root. 3) Both of the threaded hinge pins were missing. These are parts that don't show up on eBay. In fact, I couldn't even find a picture to let me know what they looked like. All I knew was that they threaded into the bosses (presumably to allow the lid to be assembled to the tray). Replacement Spring The little hairpin spring has a required 'relaxed' configuration to make it operate with the right over-centre action when the lid reaches the half-open position in its travel. Too much tension and the lid will slam against its stops (see above). Too little tension and the lid action will feel 'floppy'. Also, there are little 90-degree tangs at the ends of the arms that fit into holes in the tray wall and the lid arm. I didn't expect to find anything suitable in my little box of oddball springs. I also didn't expect to see a replacement OE spring up for sale on eBay. And it isn't exactly an over-the-counter item you can order from a hardware jobber. The only way forward was to make my own. This isn't as hard as it sounds. Regular, untempered steel wire works fine for little springs like this. With limited travel, the spring material never gets taken past its elastic limit, meaning that it never takes a stretched set and always stays 'springy' (note: in cases where the required extent travel is more extreme, it's easy to put a bit of temper into the spring after you've formed it by heating it red-hot with a torch and then quenching it in an oil bath). As mentioned earlier, evidence suggests that the Nissan OE spring is too strong (tempered wire, and also too thick), so there was no point in trying to slavishly copy that part of its design. After some trial and error, I ended up using 0.044" wire (that's a bit under 1/16" and roughly equates to AWG 18 or ~ 1mm). I wanted my new spring to have about the same coil diameter as the OE spring -- that is, an OD of ~ 3/8" or 14mm. As a forming mandrel, a 1/4" drill bit looked about right. I clamped the bit in my bench vise so that the shank (smooth part) projected horizontally out one side of the jaws. Then, holding a 12" length of wire in my hands, I wrapped a double* coil around the drill shank and then examined the relaxed shape. The legs had to form a 90-degree angle a. The coil had to have a reasonably accurate OD and have a tight 'stack'. It took several tries to get this to come out right, but in the end I was happy with my result. (* My first try duplicated the OE spring by having only a single-wrap coil, but it was too stiff -- I eventually found that a double coil worked better.) Now it was time to bend the tangs onto the ends of wire extending from the freshly formed coil. This easily done in your bench vise, but first you need to know how long to make the legs. It turns out that this doesn't have to be precise. In my case, I made the bend point for the tangs so that the finished length of each leg was 1/2" (measured along the leg, from the tang back to the point where the leg starts as a tangent off of the coil). Make sure that you bend the tangs in the right direction (they should both point outboard relative to the spring coil's centreline). Otherwise, you get to start all over again. Once you form the bends for the tangs, you complete the spring by snipping the excess wire off each tang. The tangs should be at least 1/8" long. Replacement Hinge Pins With the OE pins MIA, I had to make my own. I started with a pan-head 1/8" machine screw, about 1" long. I chucked about 1/2" of the threaded length in my drill press and then used a mill file to reduced the OD of the screw head to about ~ 1/8". With the screw still mounted in the drill press, I then used the file to take the height of the screw head down to ~ 1/8". I now had a cylindrical screw head with a flat top, but with very little slot depth left to accept a screwdriver. I now clamped the screw in my bench vise (using plastic jaw inserts to protect the screw thread) with the screw head sticking out and used a thin hacksaw blade to deepen the slot. Then I reversed the orientation of the screw in the vise jaws so that I could cut off the excess threaded length. The finished length of the resulting hinge pin needs to be ~ 5/8". Get these too long and the heads will stick out of the side of the tray too much and you won't be able to insert the tray into the receiver hole in the console . Get them too short and the pins won't project far enough into the tray to engage the lid's pivot arms. Repairs to the Lid 'Ear' As noted earlier, the ear on one side of the lid (RHS) was had snapped off. I wasn't overly optimistic about just gluing it back in place. It was going to need some structural reinforcement. To achieve this, I marked and drilled 2 sets of opposing 1/16" diameter holes in the ear and the underside of the lid. Short plastic pins were then cut to length and glued in place as part of the overall joining of the ear to the lid. Since the time when I did this repair, Steve Nix at 240Zrubberparts.com has begun offering a replacement lid*. That's probably a safer route to take (January 2020 price is US$100 plus shipping), but my results show that with a little attention to detail these lids can be repaired successfully. (* To the best of my knowledge, no one at this time is offering a replacement tray (tub) as a standalone item. Nor am I aware of any sources for the threaded hinge pins and the little hairpin spring.) Repairs to the Hinge Pin Mounting Bosses As noted earlier, the boss on one side (LHS) was intact but cracked. On the other side, the top of the boss was missing. Although I've always been suspicious of the ability of epoxy-type glues to take much in the way of side loads, they've improved over the years (the JB Weld product lineup is impressive) and I decided to give it a try. Of course, each repair needed to include a threaded hole for the pivot pins. I didn't like my chances for drilling and tapping in epoxy, so I instead did the epoxy repairs with the lid and the pivot pins (but not the spring) in place. The idea was to let the epoxy flow around the pins and their threads. To keep the pins from being glued stationary, I wrapped them with a turn-and-a-half of plumber's teflon tape. After the glue set up, I was pleased to find that - with a little careful coaxing - the pins could be freed up and then screwed in and out within their new epoxy-reinforced homes. That allowed me to adjust the slop out of lid mounting. Installing the New Spring This was a little fiddly. The tray lid needs to be slid over to the right to get enough space to fit the spring tab into the its hole in the lid ear. Then the tab on the other leg of the spring needs to be inserted into its hole in the wall of the tray. This means putting some tension on the spring while also guarding against letting the sharp end of the spring tab scratch the inside wall of the tray. Just takes patience. End Results Unfortunately, I didn't take any in-progress pictures while I was doing these repairs. Hopefully, the finished-result pictures below will provide adequate details. As I write this, the repair was actually done four years ago. I'm pleased to report that all of the epoxy repairs have held up well and the lid still flips open and shut very nicely. The work took me a couple of workshop days and let me direct over $1,000 towards other costs and purchases. If I had the job to do again, I would add a pair of soft-rubber snubbers to the places where the front edge of the lid contacts the inside walls of the tray when it snaps open. I think this is where the parts experience undesirable shock loads and it would be really nice to damp them out. I may just try to insert a couple of strips of adhesive-backed sponge-neoprene sheet in there to make that happen (wish I'd thought of this before I final-assembled the ashtray).
  8. Don't have any exploded-view diagrams handy. Is the open-box section at the bottom the pocket for the seat-belt retractor?
  9. The diameters for the wire and the drill bit were based on my sometimes flawed memory. You may need to experiment a bit (wire and old drill bits are cheap). I'll try to post a photo of my restored ashtray later today. It had broken in the usual way -- the plastic boss for one of the door hinge pins had failed (perhaps due to the over-aggressive spring tension mentioned in this thread). I rebuilt that area using scrap plastic and JB Weld. After completing the repair, the OE spring looked to me like it was going to overload the area. That's what made me decide to make a low-tension replacement.
  10. It's quite easy to make your own low-tension replacement spring. Start with a 12" length of regular (non-tempered) steel wire (stainless preferred), about 1/32" diameter. For a forming device, clamp an old 3/32" drill bit in your bench vise. It should be clamped vertical, with the shank (smooth end) exposed and the cutting end clamped. Now take the length of wire and wrap it ~ 1-3/4 times around the drill bit, so that the two legs form a 90-degree angle when the coiled part of the wire relaxes (it may take you two or three tries before you get the finished angle right). Once you're happy with your result, trim the two legs to the correct length. Remember to form the 90-degree bend on one of the legs before you cut away the excess wire. The lack of temper in the wire won't affect the action of the spring. There's not enough flexure created in the coil or legs to take the wire past its elastic limit. I made my own replacement spring this way several years ago and it still works fine.
  11. Nice addition to your product lineup. Not sure what is meant by 'encapsulant'. Will this shrink tube seal itself over at the open end?
  12. Namerow

    window issue

    Especially interesting to see how the hinged arm managed to bend (noticeably) along its long axis. If it was just a flat piece, that would be hard to do. The stamped-in kink near the centre pivot point seems to be the culprit.
  13. I wonder if the problem here is that the downward force you've applied to the hood has generated not just displacement of the hinge plate but also a slight 'wind-up' (rotational displacement) of the hood torsion bars. After you tighten down the hinge bolts, the torsion rods unwind and the hood edge pops up again. Just a theory. Someone with more panel installation experience can either verify or offer a more accurate explanation -- along with (hopefully) a remedy.
  14. Thanks for this update. In the video, the commentator points out that the bigger STP model (VersaSpot) produces a weld dimple that's noticeably deeper (and bigger in diameter) than the one produced by the smaller, QuikSpot unit. He attributes this to the greater clamping pressure (300 lb) generated by the VersaSpot's pneumatic system. I'm going to guess that the QuikSpot's manual clamping system can't generate much more than 200 lb. Flattening the tip profile might create some unwanted consequences for weld quality. Here are a few quotes from a feature article on spot welders that appeared in the Spring 2014 issue of the British auto magazine, 'Practical Classics': ""Welder power is measured in kVA. The higher the kVA, the larger the diameter of weld you can achieve. The points of the arms need to be sharpened regularly to a diameter that creates an effective weld at the given power... The welder must provide enough power the weld tip to melt the material. A 2kVA welder is only suitable for welding thin steel (up to 0.9mm) using short arms. You'll need a 6kVA machine to weld effectively with longs arms on 1.0mm steel." For reference, inlinesix is using a 1.6kVA machine. The Practical Classics article included a photo of the adjustment guide chart for a 6 kVA machine. It specifies recommended tip diameter, clamping force and weld pulse time depending on the metal thickness and arm length. For joining 1.0mm+1.0mm, it recommends that the tips be 'sharpened' to create a flat contact surface of 4.5mm diameter. Recommended clamping force for a 6" arm is 200 lb. Recommended weld time is written as 0,28" (which, I believe, is how certain parts of Europe and Asia write what us North Americans would take to be 0.28 seconds). FYI, 1.0mm sheet = 0.039" (which sits at the thick end of the tolerance range for 20 gauge). ""It is important to bear in mind that the longer the arms used, the less power is available at the weld tips - so use the shortest arms possible to reach around the item that is being joined." "The arms and body of the welder need to be kept cool. A temperature rise equates to higher resistance and a loss of power at the weld tip. Larger welders will usually be water-cooled. With a smaller welder, allow time for it to cool between welds." BTW, the water cooling feature includes water jackets around the arms. In Britain (small country, big population, lots of big cities, robust DIY community), spot welders can be rented by the day. Wish we had that where I live! Looking forward to reading more about your experiences with your spot welder as your build progresses.
  15. On the east coast, Bel-Metric in Massachusetts has a wide assortment of name-brand braided hose (mostly Continental), sold by the meter. Prices are competitive. This is a large, well-established vendor with excellent shipping. Huge catalog metric fasteners and hardware, as well. www.belmetric.com The fittings for the S30 vacuum hoses measure 10mm OD. That suggests that a 9mm hose will be the correct size.
  16. You lathe guys are always showing off. Not that I'm jealous or anything.
  17. Agree. However, my 70 Z`s dash came with that blank socket and I think it makes the dash look unfinished and suggests a base-trim model with missing options. For that reason, I bought a second toggle-type flasher switch, installed it in the blank socket and then wired it to become the ON-OFF switch for a set of fog lights. Given that Nissan included the wiring for fog lights in the stock Dash harness and originally put the cigarette lighter in the centre console, I like to think that I've just tied up some loose ends that Nissan left behind. I wonder whether fog lights were standard equipment in certain markets (Europe? Japan?) and the blank socket was indeed filled in with a second toggle switch (just like I've done).
  18. Good catch. My 5/70 also lacks these ribs. Added floor stiffness to better cope with 220-lb + North American occupants? Better strength for side impact crash testing? Doesn't look like it adds much to the seat mounts.
  19. December 2019 Update I've learned that he full set of gasket files never got restored. I've done a fresh upload (see below). For anyone about to begin this job, I'd suggest that you use consider a more dense foam sheet than what you'll see in my pictures. That stuff was perhaps a little too soft (although it did replicate the OE material pretty well). For a lot of the straight-forward butt joints, there's a semi-closed-cell neoprene sheet that might be a better choice. You can buy it in 8-12" x 11" sheets at craft stores like MIchael's. It's available in two different thicknesses (1/32" and 1/16", IIRC) and comes with adhesive backing on one side. Very convenient. There are many other places where the softer foam is still the only way to go. Common sense will usually tell you which ones require the softer stuff. Unfortunately, the finicky little pieces that go inside the centre front ventilator duct is one of those locations. in that location, the foam is used to reduce airflow noise, so it has to be open cell. You'll like the end result, but you won't enjoy the path to get there. 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Blower Motor & Fan Mounting Plate-to-Blower Housing join.pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Air Box Ventilator (plastic tri-outlet manifold)-to-Centre Ventilator Duct.pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Centre Front Ventilator Duct (plenum lining).pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Cowl (underside)-to-Intake Compartment.pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Duct Connection Flanges.pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Heater Box Air Inlet Flange (for plastic duct from Blower outlet).pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Heater Box Floor Vent Control Flap lining.pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Heater Box Outlet Control Flap lining (heat-vent-defrost control).pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Heater Core Header Tank & Lines.pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Intake Compartment Diverter Flap lining (fresh-recirculate control).pdf 240Z Series 1 - HVAC Gaskets - Intake Compartment-to-Blower Housing join.pdf
  20. Dimensional placements can be taken from the FSM, Section BF-1, Figure #BF-3, 'Standard Body Dimensions'. The version shown below comes from the 1970 FSM...
  21. Probably? it's seems to be the better Nylon.. Here's an interesting read for anyone who wants to learn a bit about engineered thermoplastics. It doesn't specifically mention Delrin because Delrin is the trade name for a Dupont product that falls into the category of 'Acetal POM' (acetal polyoxymethalene). Celcon is a similar product from a different manufacturer (Celanese). POM's, along with PA's (polyamides -- includes nylon) fall into the category of 'semi-crystalline' thermoplastics. From my quick read of the selection guide, Delrin and other POM's might be suspect for the task at hand, which would seem to require: resistance to chemicals (gearbox lube and possible additives) resistance to high temperatures (heat generated by sliding friction) good abrasion resistance Look at the case study in Slide #50, where Nylon 66 with glass-fibre and mineral/bead additives is selected for automotive oil pan applications. This looks like it might be a better solution for the fork friction pads. Just source a typical 'composite' oil pan from the wreckers and then cut out a section that can be used to machine the pads. Thermoplastics - An Engineers Guide to Specifying - RTP Co (USA) - 2014.pdf
  22. A lot of us are also interested whether this type of 'non-industrial' grade spot welder can deliver a decent result for joining a pair of light-gauge panels. Perhaps when you take delivery, you can take it for a test run with some 20 and 18-gauge scrap and post some pix of your results.
  23. It's been a long time since I last did this job. Obviously, a box-end wrench is preferable to an open-end. You might consider buying an appropriate-length, decent-quality box end and then modifying it to fit. For this job, I think you should be able to get away with grinding the thickness of the box down by at least 50% in thickness. You can probably also get away with taking at least a millimeter off the outside diameter of the box. Hopefully, you'll be able to take it down to the point where you can get it to slip over the nut. You might also need to put a bend or two into the shaft to get the right approach angle. Try not to put too much heat into the end of the wrench while you're grinding away. You want to preserve the temper of the steel as much as possible.
  24. Very cool. And all this time I thought they were just random numbers generated by some sort chronological ordering system. I wonder if this means that all of the parts numbers can be deciphered in a similar way.
  25. Here are a couple of partial 'master' lists that I found online somewhere several years ago (sorry, no names kept so I can't credit the authors). Warning: This is an executable file, so be sure to scan it with your anti-virus software before opening. It should be clean, but you never know. If you feel really ambitious, you could transport Jim K's notes and pictorial info into the 'Owner 1' list and create a true 'Master List'. S30 Fasteners - Master Lists.xlsx
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