Gary in NJ

Are those the universal or custom mats? I didn't see Datsun under the custom order.

Locked garage, .357M in the house.

Right. It's an iterative process. Once the gross mixture is adjusted (float height) you can adjust for balanced air flow. Once balanced air flow is achieved, fine mixture (nozzle adjustment) is conducted. Once the mixture is determined and set, final airflow/balance at idle is performed and then high-speed balance is set. That's three times that you need the air flow meter.

I've got a flat spot on my deck lid spoiler for the "240Z"

Welcome. The more you get into your "project" the more you'll need this site. For now, browse the forums and you'll learn a few things about the 240Z. You're gonna love your car.

That's interesting advice Arne, I've not heard that before. If one's fluid flushing history is suspect, how should the fluid be changed? Should it all be pumped past the bleeder nipple; adding fresh fluid when empty? Or, should the lines be removed ahead of the caliper/slave?

How did you adjust and verify the float height? Perhaps you've got them better, but not right? As JimmyZ mentioned above, don't forget to check your ignition system for problems too.

Time.

The original poster asked about an additive. If ethanol is the problem, I'd highly recommend StarTron. It can be found at motorcycle shops, marine shops & good 'ol WalMart. Here is a marketing paper that explains what StarTron does. http://www.starbrite.com/whatsnew/STAR%20BRITE%20ethanol%20page%20%282%297-24-06.pdf I use this product in the 240Z and my motorcycles. I believe it works as advertised.

So that supplier should still have the template. Do you have contact info?

Have you checked the throttle plate shafts? A can of Gumout could be a small investment to determine the problem.

Does 3757 sound about right?

Do not use a screw driver. Turn/twist the cap into the rod until it pops off. The screw driver could deform or crack the head of the cap.

I checked my speed-o last night. At 60 mph (indicated) I'm showing 2740 rpm. That tells me I have a 3.36 gear ratio in my differential (which makes sense because that's what came on the '72's). I'm not running an OEM tire size. So here's how I calculate actual rpm at 60 mph: oem - 175/78-14: 815 rev/mile (5280/(24.75 x 3.14/12)) x 3.36 = 2740 rpm now - 225/50-15: 846 rev/mile (5280/(23.86 x 3.14/12)) x 3.36 = 2840 rpm

Is the pulley wobbling, or is it crank run-out?

Silly, you put the steering wheel on the wrong side

How many miles a year do you put on your 240 that gas mileage is such a concern? Even if you could improve the figure by 5 mpg (say from 25 to 30 mpg), and you drive 10,000 miles a year, you're only gonna save 67 - about $200 a year. That's a lot of effort for such a little return. Even less a return if you drive less.

The rear wheels look a bit forward in the wheel well. Worth a good look from underneath.

you don't want to see this: I was replacing the thermostat housing, water temperature sensor and the thermostat cover. One of the bolts broke off in the head. That's always fun. Luckily about 3/8" of an inch was protruding. With a little penetrating oil (50:50 ATF:Acetone - works every time) and vice grips, I was able to extract it without drama. Dodged the bullet...this time.

It would crank away, but not fire. No crank; battery, battery cables or the starter. Also check the switch to make sure you are getting a ground closure at the solenoid when you engage the starter.

Good eye, its has a build date of 7/72. I guess that the water temp wire (yellow) and the tach wire (blue, I think) are touching. A couple of connectors and some heat shrink and this problem should be solved. If the wires look brittle, I'll just go ahead a replace 'em. Thanks for confirming my suspicion.

Sounds like the ballast resistor.

Wow Guy, that's not bad pricing at all. The block pricing is damn-near free!

The S30's are sports cars in the purest sense. The S130's were luxury-oriented "sporty" cars. When new they were viewed as softly sprung, overweight and over priced. It was the sports car that Buick never made. Heck, I barley recognize the S30's with the big bumpers as being S30's. But with proper attention they too can be made more 240-ish.

Sunday evening while I was doing some exploratory work on the water-temperature sensor I grounded the yellow wire to determine if the gauge or the sensor were defective. At first it appeared as though the gauge was the problem, but after trying a few different grounds, I was able to get a full scale reading on the gauge. I attributed the poor ground to the condition of the connector, which is corroded. Monday afternoon I decided to go out for a drive. The car wouldn't start, which is unusual since this engine starts easily. I figured I must have accidentally disconnected something near the distributor while looking for a good ground the night before. A quick check showed everything connected. Then I remembered that I had removed the harness that contains the yellow water-temp wire, and a wire to the distributor (the tach wire?), from the clip on the drivers side wheel well (the same clip also holds the wire from the coil to the cap). I pulled the wire from clip and moved it about a inch, then reinserted it back into the clip. The good news is the car started. The bad news is something kept it from starting. So there must be a few chafed wires somewhere in that harness. I'll have to remove the harness casing and look for damaged wires. What other wires are in that harness? Could the tach wire disable the ignition system? I tried to get that from the wiring diagram in the BE section of the FSM, but had little luck.