Gary in NJ

What kind of pricing for the head work?

Welcome Matt (that's funny): The line from the drivers-side wheel well is the flow-guide valve. It's not a vacuum line, but a vent for fuel vapor. The lines from the top of the float bowls are vents as well. I believe there are openings on the back-side of the filter element mounting plate that you can run these lines into. The problem with the open holes is that dirt can make its way past these holes and go directly into the carbs. For that reason, I'd install some sort of nipple for the vent lines on the back plate. For several reasons I'm not a big fan of the Longflo pods. There is the open back plate I mentioned above; and there is the lack of the air horns. The air horns are an important part of the carb design. Truth be told, the OEM air box is the best design for the SU carbs.

The stock tire (175/78-14) has an overall height of 24.75", or 6.48 ft/rev, or 815 rev/mile. Your tires have an overall height of 23.69", or 6.20 ft/rev, or 852 rev/mile. So your speedometer will indicate a higher speed by 4.5% (i.e 62.7mph indicated will be 60 mph). I seem to think that my '71 showed 3100 rpm @ 60mph. My '72 shows 2600 rpm @ 60.

As I was driving through town (a town of 2,000 - so it's a small town) this afternoon, heading towards some of my favorite twisty roads, I saw a blue 370Z coming the opposite direction. Being a motorcyclist, I figured I'd gave him "the waive". To my amazement, he understood why he got the waive and gave me a thumbs-up and a waive back. It was nearly 90 degrees out, so I was even amazed that his windows were open. That someone driving a modern spam-can understood the connection between his blue modern marvel, and my blue classic, truly made my day.

That makes sense. I'll install it dry.

I have a new temp-sensor to install. I have the housing, threaded retainer and, of course, the water temp sensor. I even have a new cap and thermostat (might as well replace 'em while I have it apart) and all new gaskets. I know to use pipe tape on the retainer, but do I need any sealant between the retainer and the sensor?

Nice looking engine. I'd love to feel the difference between a stock engine and a built engine like that.

Makes me think the distributor is off by one tooth.

A good running car is more important then a good looking car. The lubrication system in a car is a closed-loop system. Any external leak should be addressed. The leak around the valve cover is a very easy fix. Take the opportunity to have the valve lash checked while the cover is off. The rear seal is a more involved. I've never payed anyone to work on my 240Z, but a rear seal can be replaced in about two-hours by someone that has done it before, 3 to 4 by someone that hasn't. In that regard, $1,000 sounds excessive.

My cleaning, adjusting and lubing effort payed off. The throttle now moves with much less break-through force. It's now similar to my last Z. So now it's drivable, but after reading the attached threads, I'd like to get a little more improvement. Bruce, I already have the thick spacers. Will putting the bend in the throttle shaft have any effect? Bonzi Lon, is that the OEM throttle shaft, or did you have to get a longer unit?

Well, I just got in from the garage. I disassembled, cleaned and lubed all of the parts in the throttle linkage. The Tension Rod on the engine side of the firewall between the bell crank and Torsion Shaft was right on spec at 7-3/16". The interior Tension Rod between the throttle and bell crank was long, at 4-7/16 as measured center-to-center of the end caps. I removed the end to install a new throttle boot and reinstalled the end, setting to the FSM spec of 4-1/4". It all moves very smoothly, but it's dark and driving is different then just pumping the throttle. I'll take it on a coffee-run in the morning.

I know nothing of the ZX line. The link to the FSM above is your best option. It will have a diagram of the vacuum system.

Can you provide make & model for that battery? Does the OEM battery hold-down work with this battery?

Great pictures. Thanks for the photo essay.

Interesting reading Arne. Before I go "experimenting" I'll make sure that I'm adjusted correctly. It seems like it would be easier to recalibrate my foot & brain then the bell crank. I remember the throttle of my first 240Z being sensitive, but not bipolar. It was certainly drivable. This Z is on the verge of undrivable. I'll report my findings. But if all else fails, I'll try the cut-n-relocate modification.

Throttle control on my car is difficult at low rpm (off-throttle to on-throttle transitions). It's digital; on or off. I've lubricated all of the ball joints and linkages at the carbs with white grease to no avail. This weekend I'm going to replace the throttle boot so I figure this is a good opportunity to ensure that the linkage is set-up and adjusted correctly. I've consulted the FSM and have found the following info: 1. Adjust the Tension Rod on the engine side of the firewall between the bell crank and Torsion Shaft to 7-3/16" 2. Adjust the interior Tension Rod between the throttle and bell crank to 4-1/4" Is there any tribal knowledge beyond this that might be useful to know?

Walt, I assume you directed that at me since I brought it up. Mike hit the nail on the head. I think the original configuration is just dangerous. I'd like to turn my battery 180 degrees. IN doing so I will have to change the cables. I ran my last 240 this way. It brought me great piece of mind.

Nice looking car. I like the wheels

My ten year-old and I took a ride this evening after dinner. Our first stop was for fuel. While filling the car I got a few "nice car" and "what year?" comments. Colin likes the attention, so he'll yell back "thanks" and "it's a '72 240". We drove the perfect country roads for a bit; me enjoying the beautiful sound of a straight-6 and he enjoying Pokemon on his Gameboy. I just love driving at partial throttle and then lightly giving the car throttle; returning to part throttle and then lifting my foot off the accelerator. The sounds are just so entertaining. Our next stop was the local Dairy Queen. While enjoying our ice cream (parked conspicuously right in front) I see kids young and old pointing at the car. I particularly like it when someone will come up and tell me their Z story from 30 or 40 years ago. Tonight I even got asked "what year is your RX-7" Before Colin could set 'em straight I told him "it's a 72" - they don't know the difference anyway. He turned to his son and said, "see, I told you". Anything I can do to help. If you want to remain anonymous in NJ, don't drive a 240Z. It's a rare sight and people want to let you know they like the car. I've owned nice motorcycles and a homebuilt aircraft (an RV-6) but none of those attracted the compliments that this 240 does. I can't wait until the next time I drive the car, hopefully later this week if the weather holds out. Another car show awaits.

Sounds like a vapor-lock issue. I agree, Bruce can give you the quick, and right answer.

That's looks cool. I've been thinking about changing my cables because I don't like the positive under the cover - too close to the fender. That, and my negative can't be tightened any more then it is, and I can pull the connector off the terminal without a wrench.

Throttle Position Sensor. Things tend not to dry-out during the night. Have another go this afternoon.

I got my personalized plates today - GEERSZ. Like all vanity plates, there is a special meaning to this license plate. One could look at this plate and pronounce it "Jersry" - and I hope everyone gets it, and pronounces it correctly. But the true meaning goes back almost 30 years. John, my college roommate went by the nickname of Geers (pronounced jeers). The license plate on his Z was GEERS1. Since Geers honored me by letting me take ownership of this car, I thought it would be a fitting homage to name the car after him, while having the hidden meaning of my state of residence. GEERSZ truly is a special car. Not because of its beauty. Not because of its rarity in NJ. It's special because it represents more then friendship. GEERSZ represents brotherhood. Geers could have sold this car to anyone. It's a highly desirable car. He sold it to me because he knew how much it would mean to me and our friendship.

I thought I'd look at the antenna to determine why it wasn't working. I went to remove the rivets holding the plastic panel that covers the antenna only to discover there was only 2 of 15 rivets on the drivers side panel and 5 of 10 on the pax side. So I went to Ace Hardware and got #10 trim fasteners, drywall anchors and o-rings. Squeaks are gone. BTW, I discovered I can manually raise and lower the antenna. Two problems resolved. While driving the car to a lacrosse game today I thought to myself "this car is friggin' awesome." And it is. It is everything I remember from my old Z, and everything I wish my old Z could be.

I washed, waxed & detailed the car today. Not that it needed it, I just wanted to. You never really know a car until you've spend time touching every detail. I also installed a much needed arm rest from MSA. I also installed an Alpine CDE-103BT stereo. I wired the ashtray in the center console for iPod/iPhone connectivity (might as well get some use out of it) and put a Bluetooth mic in the visor. There were some center console fitment issues that I corrected too. After a few weeks of closing the doors with lubed strikers and pins, they now close with little effort.